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WHats a good way to move a front axle forward?

moneypit_K5

moneypit_K5

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Im almost done with my truck. it was originally an auto, swapped out to a sm465/30 spline 205 combo. Im running 13" of lift in the front, 10 in the rear. i had the rear driveline setup with 1350's top and bottom, now i cant get the front driveline to fit.

it looks a though they've stopped making the high angle yolks for the 30 spline front shaft, is the only option there to switch out to a ford 32 spline output shaft so theres more yolk options??

Ive always seen guys moving their front axles forward, ive got a corp 10 up front. how is that done?

i think that if i boxed my front spring mounts down a few inches, and moved the axle forward 3 inches, my driveline angle wouldnt be bad at all.


Sorry for the book, i really appreciate any help you can give me on how to fix my bad front driveline angle.
 
Quick and dirty is a set of Off Road Design's zero rates. 1" of lift and you can move the axle forwards 1" or 1.5".

Others have redrilled the spring pack's pin hole, moved hangars, different springs, etc etc etc.
 
i really appreciate any help you can give me on how to fix my bad front driveline angle.
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This would be easily accomplished by removing about 5" of lift up front.
 
you could swap in 52" springs up front (see diy4x.com for the kit). this requires doing crossover steering...
 
I dont have as much lift as you, but if you can fab a bit, I cut my factory mounts off the frame, made a new crossmember and spring hangers, and moved my axle ahead 6".

Before
100_0062.JPG

After ( 6" ahead)

100_0997.JPG

Of course with this, you would need to hydraulic steering, or move your steering box, new shock mounts, longer brake lines, longer d-shaft, and move the rear shackles ahead too.

100_0997.JPG

100_0062.JPG
 
Of course with this, you would need to hydraulic steering, or move your steering box, new shock mounts, longer brake lines, longer d-shaft, and move the rear shackles ahead too.
Click to expand...

thanks for the info, how did you set your steering up after you brought it forward 6"? I can fab, but im curious how you solved the steering issue.
 
It occurs to me that my statement won't work for you because the 52" spring swap only nets about 4" lift.

He was saying you have to run full hydro steering to move the axle that far forward, which wouldn't be street legal. You're kinda limited by the height of your lift, so your best bet is to just go with a cv driveline.

Another option would be to run a doubler or a divorced t-case
 
moneypit_K5 said:
thanks for the info, how did you set your steering up after you brought it forward 6"? I can fab, but im curious how you solved the steering issue.
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Yah as stated above, my steering is fully hydraulic, which is not street legal but with the right parts, I have heard of people driving it on the road. With some fab work, I think you could move your steering box ahead also.

If you want the easiest way to do it, I think you should swap to the ford 32 spline output (Ford 205 can be had for a $100) In fact i run a chevy 205 housing with all ford internals, so i know it can be done.

Once the input is sourced, get a flange and high angle CV from Jess at HAD (which is pretty spendy) or get a 1410 yoke for the case and one end of your drive shaft (capable of 28 degree vs the 1350s 20 degrees.

Also, i have seen a clocking plate for the 205 before, i cant seem to find it now, and i am not sure if is only to clock it up or either way. It may be something to look in to.
Edit> Found the clocking plate> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/cloc...006QQitemZ160224524303QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 
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hey colby, don't you remember man? my K5 is far from street legal. i am in no way worried about that aspect.:haha:

i have been sourcing CV style drivelines, but they are going to run me about 800 bucks on a good day. for that kind of money, i may as well swap out to rockwell toploaders and and have zero driveline angle. im all for that, but ive spent so much time changing and re changing systems on the pig, at this point i just need to see it in some mud.

Im kind of burning the rope at both ends because ive still got a corp 10 bolt up front. i hate to throw cash away on a spendy fix for this when im going to end up with either a 60 up front or deuces anyway. im looking for something i can fab up in my shop, right now im modifying a stock CV driveline, hoping to get lucky.

If you want the easiest way to do it, I think you should swap to the ford 32 spline output (Ford 205 can be had for a $100) In fact i run a chevy 205 housing with all ford internals, so i know it can be done.
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Im familiar with that, im just not thinking 28 degrees is enough. today i fitted a random 30 spline diff yoke i had to the 205, it had barely enough clearance, and there was no room to drop out. the yolk i used took a Ujoint that was longer than a 1350 but had smaller caps. it had a huge cutout also, nearly past the washer.

That brings me back to my first thought, i either need to move the axle forward or pull the Tcase back. Or use a clocking plate if i can find one.- havent had much luck there.
 
Yeah, I remember you - but I didn't look at your truck when I met you. I just noticed it was really tall...
 
re

You are right, lowering it would be easier, but height is addictive. I'm just looking to build a knarly mud truck, learning as i go. I sat on 9" lift for quite awhile in my SWB before this.
 
moneypit_K5 said:
You are right, lowering it would be easier, but height is addictive. I'm just looking to build a knarly mud truck, learning as i go. I sat on 9" lift for quite awhile in my SWB before this.
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Use bigger tires to height.

That or get rockwells which would probably be a good idea with 44's.
 
Thanks Tlspeed, i actually found that kit this morning on ebay, im waiting to hear how far down it'll drop my 205. $169 seems like a really good price for it.
those guys are not too far from here, i'll just go pick it up!
 
If anybody was curious, this is how i fixed my issue....It seems to be holding up. I fabricated my own driveline using a 4 bolt flange from a 203 and the corresponding flange of a CV style shaft, mated with a NEAPCO 1330/1310 combo Ujoint.
 
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