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What's causing no spark?

Low87

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May 19, 2011
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Broken Arrow, OK
Ongoing saga that started with replacing the fuel pump unit. Went to change the tstat while there, locked up bolts, had to remove the manifold, yada yada. When I had the dizzy out I noticed it was time to replace that, so I did.
Got everything back together today. Fuel is getting to the TBI, I know that for a fact because I forgot to tighten a fuel line.
No spark. Don't have electrical tools here and I'm alone. Pulled a plug and taped it to the cowl, looked at it while turning the key. Real safe I know.
When installing the dizzy there was only two ways to put it in (there's a "bar" across the middle, inside of the bottom). Thought I had it 180 off, so I pulled it and turned. Still nothing. Tried 2 different new ICMs. Quadruple checked all connections.
Any thoughts? Really getting pissed at this project. Borrowed car is reaching its limit. Wife is still understanding but I don't want to overdue that one either.
 
There are two electrical parts within the distributor that commonly fail. There is the ignition module (easy to change) and the pick-up coil (have to remove distributor and take it comepletely apart). I ALWAYS replace them both at the same time nowadays, in the past I would only replace which ever was bad and shortly after the other would fail.
 
Dizzy, ICM, cap, rotor are all new. Dizzy was complete out of the box. Where's the pickup coil from there? You mean the ign coil?
 
Dizzy, ICM, cap, rotor are all new. Dizzy was complete out of the box. Where's the pickup coil from there? You mean the ign coil?

The pick-up coil is located in the center of the distributor and the distributor shaft goes through it hence why the distributor needs to be taken out and taken completely apart to change it. This IS NOT the ignition coil.
 
gunna have to wait till you get a multimeter. Need to know if you even have 12v to the coil.


Have you check all your fuses? (just throwing diapers hoping one sticks)
 
I would bet that two wire temp sender to the computer that sits on top of the manifold is probally bad. I would change that and see if you get spark
 
I would bet that two wire temp sender to the computer that sits on top of the manifold is probally bad. I would change that and see if you get spark

The CTS has nothing to do with getting spark or not, if it's bad then the engine may not run correctly and will get terrible fuel mileage but certainly wont affect getting spark. :deal:
 
Any cheapy should work. a harbor freight, radio shack, or anything from a parts store will get you by Can even get by with a test light most times. Nicer ones are just.....well nicer lol

I like ones that beep when u have continuity. Makes doing that check(fuse good, etc) quicker than just using ohms and looking at the screen. Some read temp and all kinds of stuff. Id look for ac and dc and ohms at a min. Auto ranging is nice too but not a huge deal. Also replaceable probes/leads/ability to put alligator clips on is nice

Fluke makes nice stuff but pricey. Greenlee Makes nice stuff too and a bit cheaper and is what I have.
 
Got it figured out last night.

I put the wires back on the distributor in the same orientation as I took them off. Apparently the distributor was 180 off. Got them on right and fired the truck up. Timed it this morning.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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