CK5
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What's it worth with 6cyl?

I agree,unless your like me,and don't mind owning & driving a patched up rotbox that's still functional,and wont win any awards for beauty--but you wont be afraid to "beat on" a bit and use as a truck either...this truck would be a good one to just patch up and drive awhile,then use as a donor later when you find a better one body wise that might need a motor,etc..
 
I'm glad you posted all those pics, because your description made it sound pretty good. The reality is that is a total rust bucket. The plus is all those often missing/broken parts like top, trim, glass, grill are all there. Personally, I think it would make a good parts truck. But I hate dealing with rust. I did it enough in my younger days.

If you want to get into that body style on the cheap, start looking at pickups. The design of the floor, torsion boxes, rocker panels lead to rust. The windshield frame and bed sides are no help either. The trucks generally just need some new rockers welded in and the wood in the bed replaced. Do that and a decent respray and you're in that "decent driver" for a couple grand. It's been said a thousand times- There is no such thing as a cheap 1st gen Blazer.

If you do buy it brace the door openings before you take the top off. Then go big on the rust repair. The biggest mistake I made on my '73 ('73-75 have the same design and problems) was trying to make small patches work. Just go all out right from the start. It will save you time and money. Every time I see someone start trying to patch up rust spots so they can "save money" or "keep it original" I cringe.
 
Yeah,I tried that route at first too,and ended up dissapointed..

When I decided to put rockers and "floor patches" on my '72,I decided to rip both front seats out,and get a large sheet of 16 gauge galvanized steel,and "built" a whole new floor from the firewall to the "step" behind the seats..
The original floor only had a few spots with holes about an inch or two in diameter,but it had cracks where the seats and seat belts bolted in,so I decided to go with one "big" patch,instead of 20 little ones..

Back then I only had torches,and ended up using 1/4" bolts and nuts with fender washers to bolt the metal in with,along with pop rivets and a few brazed spots,after I welded up the cracks in the seat bolt holes and seat belts..
It looked rather crude,but not many people look under the rug..:whistle:--and I could feel how much stronger the body felt after that was done ..my doors no longer threatened to pop open when I hit bumps,no more rattles either..I kept that truck 8 more years and it didn't rust again after I was done with it--when I got it I was so disgusted with the rot ,I was ready to part it out..

Ever since my first rust repair episode when I did "spot repairs" and ended up with a patchwork quilt floor,I have since gone whole hog and do the entire floor over..and I lap the new one over the old,only cut out the rotted areas..some might call that hack,but I feel it ends up "double strong" that way..might not look "factory",but I'm not that anal..
I did my '75 2wd K5 that way,and a '79 Bonanza..
 
Yep, rare. I have a 72 that comes up as a 6 cyl. Same color. Body is good but someone had trashed the frame. Cut front frame horns. Someone had jumped the truck and bent and twisted the frame. Drove it for awhile. Had a 307 4 sp with 205 transfer case. Finally removed the body, placed it in storage, and took all usable cross members, spring hangers and parts of the frame and scraped the rest. I just found a rolling chassis from a 70 that is available.
That 72 you are looking at is really rough. Greg72 is spot on with his evaluation.
 
Thanks again guys for all of the great info and comments...I'm still torn on pulling the trigger. She is ark till sitting in the same spot rusting away...probably gonna pass on her, but still awfully tempting if I could snatch it outta there for $300-$400. Still thinking about it though since it literally 1000ft away and I see it every day:) Boy..it sure looks good for a 1000 footer:)haha

Andy
agouge888
 
Definitely a crusty one. Doesn't help being in a field! They are a nasty project when u peel the proverbial onion back. If you look at my build you will see what it looks like when you peel all the layers back. You are left with a sheet metal cost of around 6000-8000 if you want rust free. That's without labor of course. The only problem if your intent was to throw a motor in there and beat on it, you are probably going to have the truck twist apart on you with the rocker torsion box area looking as crusty as it is. But, it could be a wonderful decade
Long project!:thumb:

Yea just rockers I said. No big deal I said!:screwy:







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Where I am now:eek:

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Before I did rockers and boxes and floors

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