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What's the deal with block heaters???

73k5blazer

End the H1B Program!
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So I have this RamJet 350 circa 2009.

I bought an GM service parts block heater (996247 same P/N listed for 70's 350 engines) for a 5.7L circa 1999. (the year the ramjet manual constantly references for sensors,service parts etc..)

I struggle (yes struggle) to pop the rear left freeze plug only to insert this block heater and it won't go in, it's too deep, or rather the cylinder wall is too close to allow the block heater insert fully.
WTF, every block heater I find is the same depth. Am I missing something? Is there some late,late model blocker heater I'm supposed to go after? I know the 5.7l blocks are no longer stock in any vehicle, but I would be aghast to find they actually changed something after they stopped putting these in production vehicles. Something different about the ramjet (marine) block????
 
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I was worried about that same problem so I went with a 'Kats Tank Heater'. Came out this morning, looked around, everybody else had ice on their windshields not me. Unplugged and drove away. Think it a part number 13100. $45
 
I get a remote start from wall mart before Id waist my time with a block heater.
 
I get a remote start from wall mart before Id waist my time with a block heater.

Not so fast, block heaters and remote starts serve two totally different purposes. Remote starts allow one to be lazy and start their car from their house before they leave so they can get in an already warm car. Block heaters keep the engine warmer than the ambient air temperature, making it easier to start in the cold. I have two block heaters in my truck and one in my car, and I didn't have the heater in the car, there's no way it would start in the cold temps we get around here. I know my truck will start in -40, but it is much happier plugged in.
 
If its a hard start because of extreme cold Id run a lighter oil and install a second battery. You cant always count on having a plug. Plus Id bet the extra bat would be cheaper than your electric bill.
 
Nope, even jump starting the car won't work, trust me. In the winter up here the heaviest oil I run is full-synthetic 5-20 in the car, brand new battery, fresh tune-up. Plus, around here, businesses are required by city ordinance to provide plug-ins for their employees and some of their customers, and it's always plugged in at home when it's cold.

Once again for review:

Auto-start: Lazy way to warm up in the morning.
Block heater: Warms the engine for easier start.

Around here most people have both.
 
If its a hard start because of extreme cold Id run a lighter oil and install a second battery. You cant always count on having a plug. Plus Id bet the extra bat would be cheaper than your electric bill.

Put the heater on a timer to run an hour or two before you leave in the morning ($.10-.20 a day) and I bet the thing pays for itself in a couple weeks. The motor will warm up much quicker (i.e. choke off or run in closed loop for FI vehicles) and they become much more efficient. MPG will go up big time.

Not to mention wear and tear on the motor, easier starting, the heater works quicker, etc.
 
I believe from what I read about block heaters or inline heaters, is it's suppose to be cheaper to preheat the vehicle with the electricity from the house, than sitting there idling away high priced gas/Diesel.

Set the block heaters up on timers, have them kick on 30 minutes or so before you go out to the vehicle. Water is nice & warm, easier to start and instant defrost capabilities.

Those remote starters are sure nice in hot climate areas though, where you start the vehicle up to help cool down the interior with the AC, but again, burning fuel..
 
So I have this RamJet 350 circa 2009.

I bought an GM service parts block heater (996247 same P/N listed for 70's 350 engines) for a 5.7L circa 1999. (the year the ramjet manual constantly references for sensors,service parts etc..)

I struggle (yes struggle) to pop the rear left freeze plug only to insert this block heater and it won't go in, it's too deep, or rather the cylinder wall is too close to allow the block heater insert fully.
WTF, every block heater I find is the same depth. Am I missing something? Is there some late,late model blocker heater I'm supposed to go after? I know the 5.7l blocks are no longer stock in any vehicle, but I would be aghast to find they actually changed something after they stopped putting these in production vehicles. Something different about the ramjet (marine) block????

Could it be that the element is supposed to go into a specific hole? Maybe a different hole falls between cylinders instead of next to one. The OE element on my 454 is in a PITA hole right by the motor mount as opposed to either the forward or rear most holes which are wide open. :dunno:
 
Set the block heaters up on timers, have them kick on 30 minutes or so before you go out to the vehicle. Water is nice & warm, easier to start and instant defrost capabilities.

Not sure where you're referring to, but up here 30 minutes doesn't put a dent in a cold block during the dead of winter. It takes 4 hours minimum to warm up an engine to the point where it will fire without that awful "HELP!!! I HAVE NO OIL!!!!" squeal......
 
If you're not familiar with the phrase "plug in at 20", you probably aren't going to understand what a "cold" start is and what it means mechanically for your vehicle. CT isn't quite the same winter as the Pacific Northwest and north of there lol. Back in Alaska, using my block heater every morning made the difference between about 10mpg and 13 mpg over a 300 mile tank...so that's saving 7 gallons of gas a week, or $26.60 a week at current gas prices ($3.80/gal) or. Average electricity is currently $.085/kW*hr in Anchorage right now, so assuming my block heater was 1000W (actually most are 750W), it costs 8.5 cents an hour to run. I had a timer and ran it for 2 hours every morning, which makes a block heater cost less than $5.10 a month to use for 2 hours a day, versus $106.40 in gasoline to not use it. Not only is that a huge amount of emissions increase which is bad for air quality, but good lord that is a lot more money than I ever realized.

This isn't even considering the significant wear and tear you save the engine by reducing starting it at 50* instead of 0* every day.

And in places where block heaters and needed, there very much is a plug just about everywhere. In Fairbanks at a lot of stores like Wal Mart, Home Depot, Sportsmans Warehouse, ect., there are 4x4 wooden posts at every parking space, with a plug to plug in your block heater.

There have been many times when starting one of our diesels required the use of the block heater for several hours, batteries warmed to room temperature in the shop, 10-30, and a tarp under the hood with a kerosene heater blowing on the oil pan for about an hour. Several of those trucks now have two block heaters in case one goes out and we don't have time to replace it right then.

I think the plug usually has to be clocked to a certain position. I also see no reason you couldn't gently bend the element a little to fit, just don't deform the circumference of the plug. But, I'm very confident that it has to be rotated a certain way in most applications.

BTW, my block heaters on my '76 350, and both my '96 l31s (350 vortec) are installed in place of the rearmost drivers side freeze plug.
 
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Absolutely bingo........ Anyone that plugs a block heater in for 30 minutes is wasting their time. And likely lives in an area that doesn't get "real" winter.

Block heater elements are built to fit in specific freeze plugs, in a specific orientation. They're not all the same, they are application specific. If you don't know for sure that you have the right one, or don't have the installation sheet. Stop, go back to square 1. Verify you have the right one in the right hole in the right direction.


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I still have the original block heater in my 78 K5. I took it out recently to replace the rubber o ring gasket. There are two types of block heaters stamped and the others are made from solid brass. Mine is the solid brass. The stamped pieces looked kinda flimsy. I purchased a new one and transferred the seal to my old block heater. The instructions with the new one showed what orientation for the heater.
 
Could it be that the element is supposed to go into a specific hole? Maybe a different hole falls between cylinders instead of next to one. The OE element on my 454 is in a PITA hole right by the motor mount as opposed to either the forward or rear most holes which are wide open. :dunno:
Same here on my2000K3500 with the 454 and on my SB350 that's in my 82 K30 .
 
The 6.2 in my plow truck has a factory block heater installed in the freeze plug newr the motor mount also...but its cord was snipped off when they pulled it at the salvage yard (engine was replaced before I got the truck)--maybe thats the only hole a block heater will fit in that has enough clearance between the cylinder walls??..seems to me I remember seeing small blocks having them in the same spot too before..
I run a tank style one on the heater hose,that was on the truck when I got it,I think its only 450 watts--last fall I saw a 650 watt one brand new at a flea market in the box for 5 bucks,I wasted no time grabbing it!..found a brand new set of lug reinforced tire chains in a cardboard box of "junk" too,that I gave 5 bucks for,I was stoked!!--now if it really gets icy or the snow too deep,I'll be able to "doze" it no problem!..even with bald tires..:D..though the engine heater takes a good 2-3 hours to make a difference,it does help cold starting a lot,and its nice to get the defroster working much faster than it would from a dead cold start..

Must be weird having "free" eectrical outlets available at stores!..if we had them here,squatters would probably set up tents and LIVE next to them...:rolleyes:
 
Could it be that the element is supposed to go into a specific hole? Maybe a different hole falls between cylinders instead of next to one. The OE element on my 454 is in a PITA hole right by the motor mount as opposed to either the forward or rear most holes which are wide open. :dunno:

The heater came with a manual that says exactly which hole and what orientation. THe hole it says it really the only one accessible to put it in anyway.
Upon closer inspection, the block heater I bought says for 75-92 305,350,262 motors. Not sure what changed after that.
I found another block heater and the picture (a real picture not a generic) shows it much thinner and the element pointed exactly where it needs to go to not hit anything. So I think I just bought the wrong one. I have to wait for the new one to arrive and see if it fits.

Oh, and to the side discussion, my gas engines don't have too much trouble without a block heater, but my 6.5l diesel truck just won't start when it's below 10 out. Plugged in it starts like a 70f degree day.
THey are for sure a necessity in alot of areas, ours only sometimes, but when you get that week of -10, they help a ton. So much better for the engine.
Besides, remote start is a different animal all together, but regardless, probably not a very prudent install on a vehicle with a manual transmission where I did not re-install the clutch interlock. :pimp:
 
Same here. No problems with the gas engines here but my Cummins definitely likes to be plugged in. Last night it got to 20* and I didn't plug in. Cranked slow on startup. When itgot down to 0* a week or so ago and it was plugged in, it cranked like it was a nice warm sunny day. Plus it was blowing warm air witihin 1 mile of driving. Today and not plugged it took almost 5 miles for the thermostat to open enough to get warm inside..brr
 
Only reason I mentioned the 30 minute time, is I have never used one, so I really didn't know about what time to put down as a reference for warming up the motor, was just a guesstimate really, not a stated fact.

When I was originally planning on moving back to NE Indiana area, I was planning on installing some block heaters or something on mine and mothers truck to assist with warming them up in the cold time of winter there, it's not as harsh as Alaska or whatever, but I try to be nice to the mechanical runnings of my vehicles now that I have to work on them all the time.

I'm still annoyed that she took a perfect condition, absolutely NO RUST '94 Silverado back there to kill in in a couple of years time, if not sooner.. :frown1:
 
I'm still annoyed that she took a perfect condition, absolutely NO RUST '94 Silverado back there to kill in in a couple of years time, if not sooner.. :frown1:
I'm going to guess that in phoenix Arizona non rusted Silverado's are a dime a dozen. They don't rust here in Oregon so phoenix they should be even easier to find not rusted.
 

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