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What's the deal with this body mount?

For some reason I *think* I recall that the ORD kit comes with new bolts/nuts and thus the extra price. I could be wrong about that.

The other problem in your case with doing a 1" body lift is that you've done the bedliner, and you'd screw it up in the process because you'd have no choice but to change out the carriage bolts in the back.
 
1" BL and ORD poly bushing set. BL gets hardware. Bushings do not. But you could probably ask for some or just measure for a hardware store run.:waytogo:

Frame to body flex? Pretty hard to tell straight on. Grill to hood flex? You betcha :D

 
colbystephens said:
For some reason I *think* I recall that the ORD kit comes with new bolts/nuts and thus the extra price. I could be wrong about that.
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Nah, they specifically say on their site that the bolts aren't included. Nobody seems to include them, maybe because so many people do body lifts.
 
i installed I think it was energy suspensions bushing kit ten years ago. Came with bolts for 100 bucks. I think the lmc kit comes with bolts too iirc. Looked it up. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=33 200 bucks but it comes with everything.
Energy Suspension 3.4118 Body - Frame Mount Bushings. 100 bucks for poly mounts but no hardware. You can take the ones you have to the hardware store and match them up. Can't help on size though. Mines a 72.
 
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I figured I'd post this here incase it helps someone down the line.

Stock body mount bolts on a '90 K5 are:
  • Grade 5, 1/2 diameter, 13 thread count.
  • (2) at 6.5" long carriage bolt (rear most bolts)
  • (2) at 3" long carriage bolt (bed bolts)
  • (4) at 3.5" flange bolt (or regular with SAE washers - 2/side under the rockers)
  • (2) at 5" flange or reg + washer for core support.
  • If you're replacing the nuts, you'll need 6. The other four are captured nuts.

I'm assuming this info is true of all the V-series Blazers, and probably also for earlier K-series Blazers, at least back to 1981. I use that as my cut-off date for reliability because I used a Daystar body mount bushing kit that was for K5s from '81 to '91. Since I used a 1" body lift, I added 1" to those lengths for my replacement bolts.
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It's from this thread: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=308391
 
Beware of the hardware store bolts since they usually don't stock grade 5 carriage bolts. McMaster carries them though in the right lengths.
 
Okay, help me out guys. I ordered the prothane kit. Don't mock the red, it was $20 cheaper and I don't care that much. Anyway, I'm looking at these bushings and it's really not at all obvious to me which of these goes where. Looking at the truck I see:

1) Two under the radiator type area, round and perhaps smaller than the others

2) Four mid-body, round

3) Four toward the back, rectangular

So, looking at these, which goes where? It's almost like this is not the right kit, though the prothane site clearly calls this kit out for 83 K5 4WD.

Also, I'm thinking the tapered bushing goes on the bottom, taper down?

Where do the big washers go?

bodyBushings.jpg


EDIT: After a closer look, I'm thinking the B's are the ones closest to the front, taper side up. Still not certain about the rear ones.
 
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It will be pretty obvious when you pull out your existing stuff because they fit into cups of particular sizes on the truck. You have to reuse your existing cups.
 
rebelgregory said:
I know yours are prothane, but it's probably the same as energy suspension. The instructions uses their part numbers but also gives washer dimensions, etc. It should help.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17068.pdf
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So that's the part number for energy for K5. I tried to find it but they made it too hard. Anyway, thanks, that might help.

colbystephens said:
It will be pretty obvious when you pull out your existing stuff because they fit into cups of particular sizes on the truck. You have to reuse your existing cups.
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The rectangle shaped ones in the back are totally different in stock form from these poly kits. I'm guessing the small ones go in front of the gas tank and the bigger ones behind. I'm also guessing that all the washers are used in the back two sets, one between the mount and the body and one at the bottom of the bottom mount. Can anyone confirm?
 
As a few have said, I would consider that flex normal. But good that your getting it straightened out.
 
y5mgisi said:
As a few have said, I would consider that flex normal. But good that your getting it straightened out.
Click to expand...

If you saw it "in action" I think you'd agree that the mount was not doing its job, at least not as well as it should.

Here's how I think the mounts should go. This is for one side, left=front, right=back, and in order from top to bottom. If someone can confirm, that would help a lot.

20140530_203233.jpg
 
Looks right.

Don't sweat the rectangular mount pads in the rear. Poly design is different, but it works.

Also there is a sheetmetal bracket on the rearmost mount on my 88 that sort of wrapped around the mount and went down to the frame and held the captive nuts for the bumper bracket. I had to cut off the part that went around the body mount. Can't remember if I would have had to do it if not for the 1" bodylift. You'll see it when you get there.
 
Thanks. I think my biggest concern, aside from enclosed captive nut breaking loose, is dealing with the carriage bolts in the bed. My interior is Line-X'd. If they were free I think I could just razor them, but if they are also tacked... Did you have to grind the head off, or what?
 
You'll have to peel back the line-x, but you'll be able to see the tack once it's exposed. Cut it with a die grinder (or dremel if necessary). It took me a few iterations to get the tack completely cut without nicking the floor. Cut it, remove the nut on the carriage bolt and hit 'up' from the bottom of the bolt. If it doesn't pop up, you didn't get all of the tack. If you keep wailing on it, it'll just bend the floor up. It's really not hard, it just took a few trips from the bed to underneath and back.

I wouldn't cut the head off because I would end up massacre-ing my bed. But that's me.
 
With the bolts that are tack welded to the bed I'd completely take the nut off before you grind the tack off. That way the weld is helping to hold the bolt in place without the chance of it spinning and possibly rounding out the square hole that the carriage bolt sits in.
If I remember correctly, you can get the Line-X touched up where you expose the bolt heads. Shouldn't cost much.
 
Just went shopping for bolts. Of course even the best Ace in town has no graded carriage bolts. I got grade 8 on the rest for the fun of it. Did you guys go out of your way to source graded carriage bolts?
 
I went to a fastener supplier in the industrial part of town. You might look for something like that in Tucson. Here, I used R&E Fasteners. If it were my truck, I'd get the grade 5 carriage bolt to be safe.
 
I can't seem to find grade 5 or 8 carriage bolts on-line in length longer than 6". Well, Fastenal has a listing, but no stock. Even the 3" has a week delay from them. McMaster goes up to 6" ($9 apiece too). Anyone have a source?

It's almost never worth it for me to waste my vacation time driving over to the other side of town for stuff I can order on-line. Since I can cash in my vacation, it's normally a better deal to pay shipping for stuff. There is a Fastenal in Tucson, but it's closed on the weekends.
 
There's a Grainger in Tucson at 3415 S. Dodge Blvd. They might have them in stock.
Looks like it's about 2 blocks from Fastenal.
 
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