Wheel Hop...with pics

[pismorat]

Why do I have wheel hop in loose terrain? I have a traction bar that I made and I don't think the u-joint angles are too steep. I also have the DIY4x shackle flip in the rear and the angle looks good on that. Anyone have ideas at how to eliminate it?

 

[boggerless]

Why do I have wheel hop in loose terrain? I have a traction bar that I made and I don't think the u-joint angles are too steep. I also have the DIY4x shackle flip in the rear and the angle looks good on that. Anyone have ideas at how to elimin
cuz its loose.un even ground will get ya no matter what you have.

 

[mrk5]

I can't tell from the pics, does the lower bar of the traction bar pass below the centerline of the axle? In other words if you draw a line extending the lower bar on out 'til it hit the ground, would the line you drew pass below the axle centerline?

 

[mrk5]

What kind of shock valving do you have?

 

[pismorat]

The lower bar on the trac bar might be slightly below the axle centerline, but not by much. The shocks are Bilstein 5150's with the stiffer valving, I don't remember off hand. I noticed it most in sand, and I just want to make sure I don't break anything. I am going to add Zero Rates soon for height, will that make it worse?

 

[mrk5]

I know the lower bar should pass below axle centerline for the wrap bar to operate properly. I also know that an improper traction bar can actually create wheel hop issues. There is a ton of info/opinions about traction bar designs on Pirate, enough to give you a headache.

Are you running overloads?

Also shocks can help eliminate wheel hop, but I don't know enough about valving to know what is the correct valving. When I got mine, I let Doetsch Tech figure it out for me.

 

[tRustyK5]

The axle's centerline is the axis of rotational force under heavy throttle. Being at the axle centerline with the lower link isn't the end of the world, as long as the other link is mounted to a very sturdy location with as much spread between the two as you can get within practical limits.

Your links are pretty close together, and the upper looks somewhat unsupported. That combination doesn't give the anti-wrap device much mechanical advantage in the rotation prevention area. I'd consider building an over the top truss tied into the top of the case utilizing the top cover bolts and move the upper link up to that. Try and move the lower link to where it's flush with the bottom of the diff tubes too. Doing that will give you a longer 'lever' and should tame the axle wrap.

Axle wrap is such a difficult problem to deal with...the more you understand the harder it gets. There are so many arcs of travel and movement to try and account for and control. I'm of the opinion there will never be a perfect anti-wrap system (other than swapping to a 4 link). The best you can hope for is to limit the negatives.

Every anti-wrap bar will end of with some bind, and/or some highly stressed areas under certain conditions. As long as it kills the axle wrap and the side affects aren't too severe it's all good (I guess)

Rene