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WHEEL LOCKS!!! ARGHHH!!!

B

Big Red

1/2 ton status
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Jan 9, 2003
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Location
Bristol, CT
<font color="red"> ok, heres the deal, the previous owner put on sum stupid azz wheel locks, and of course me being the retard, i managed to lose the socket for them . i got 3 of them off by welding a bolt and nut to thm and cranking them off...now my problem is the fourth one i snapped a chunk off when i cranked it. any ideas on how to get it off without ruining the stud(im already missing one as it is, argh!) im sure this is a moot point but o well. and if i hafto break off the stud, can i pull the backing plate to install new ones without pulling the rotors? (i really don't wanna mess wit the hubs, as my blaze is my only transportation, lol) any help will be greatly appreciated! </font> /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
Sometimes you can pound a junk socket onto it and crank it off that way. The theory is the socket wedges on tight enough to stick atleast well enough to get your nut off!! /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
<font color="red"> LMAO!!! lol. thats great, i was thinkin that. lol. but i really need to know if i can get the backing plate off and not hafto take my rotor off to install a new stud. i really can't afford to do that right now. it sucks. plus i just went wheelin tonight and managed to graze a tree, dented the door near the lock and pushed my panel in about a foot back from it. lol. o well, time for a good ol spot weld and bondo. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif </font>
 
GOD DAMN IT!!! dude, thats gonna suck, i have no experience wit 4x4 hubs. damn, and teh local shop siad (if i remember correctly) that it was like $150 per side!! DAMN! i so don't have any cash at all for this. freakin sucks cus i gotta do my brakes soon too. this really blows. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
 
Man get a Haynes manual and do it yourself. It won't take more than a few hours if all your stuff is in good shape. Follow the driections to the T and all will be well. It really isn't that hard. Anyone on here will be willing to help if you need it. Besides if you learn how to fix it in your driveway you'll be better off than learning how to fix it on the trail.
 
<font color="red"> ok, well, i dun mean to be a post whore, but can anyone give me an idea as to what i can do by myself? im not a complete moron when it comes to mechanical stuff, just never did anythin wit GMs auto hubs. i know u need a certain socket for the nut thats in there right? i could really use some advice here! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif i have a haynes manual. so it should show me all the details? alrighty, we'll see.</font>
 
Yes you do need that socket. It is like 17.95 at autozone. So it isn't too bad. You'll also need it to repack your bearings so it is a wise buy.
 
Try the junk socket first. The 12 point sockets work best (more biting edges)

You want one that'll barely start to fit on the locking lug nut...then pound that sumbitch on. Use a breaker bar to slowly increase the torque on it and it'll most likely spin right out for ya. I had to do four of those on an S-10 Blazer I bought about 10 years ago. An impact will just spin the socket...

As for the hub assembly stuff, you'll need a sharp pick, the hub socket, some grease and that's about it. Read the haynes or chiltons and give it a whirl...it's nowhere near as hard as you think.

Rene
 
Big red,I just took the front hubs off my 71 Blazer for the 1st time ever(I had never done it befor either).
You'll need a special hub nut socket but that can be purchased at just about any parts store for about $20.00 or less.
Take your time and note the order in which everything comes out.
It's REAL easy...you can do it.I just used my factory manuals as well as a Chiltons manual for reference(all though they were not that much help).
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
most the good parts stores will loan that socket out.......

pulling that rotor off would be a free job other than some wheel bearing grease.
 
Don't sweat the rotor removal. My first time was in a friggin airport parking lot. I lost all but one stud due to snappage, and there was no way I was getting towed out with ONE INCH of clearance on my rig. It really is very easy to get the front rotor off and back on. With minimal tools too.
 
NAPA should sell the removal sockets. They are just like reverse threaded so they grab on to the wheel lock when your lefty loosening.
 
It was a long time ago but I could swear I put 2 new front wheel studs in the 72 K5 I had without pulling the hub and rotor off /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif--maybe I have had too many beers since then! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Havent had to do a wheel stud for awhile.,but the hubs do look scary at first,but they arent that bad--the snap rings are the worst part,especially if one flies off into oblivion,never to be seen again!. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif I suggest having a spare snap ring or two on hand at all times,more than once I've had to dig my locking hub out of a snowbank when plowing,it really sucks having to lose time and money over a two dollar part you cant get on weekends that easy. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
As for the locking lug nut,like Rene said hammering an undersize socket on usually works--I have brought mine to a local tire shop and they had a socket that was tapered inside,and had spiral splines inside too,they just tapped it on with a hammer and the impact spunt it right off--the guy didnt even want to charge me anything,so I got him a coffe and gave him 5 bucks.I think when I need tires I'll go there now!. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Don't sweat the rotor removal. My first time was in a friggin airport parking lot. I lost all but one stud due to snappage, and there was no way I was getting towed out with ONE INCH of clearance on my rig. It really is very easy to get the front rotor off and back on. With minimal tools too.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yeah, I was 1.5 hours away from my house or school in the middle of no where when my tire almost came off. I broke a few studs. I got a ride back to school, got studs, asked my auto teacher what the heck to do and got a ride back to the gas station where it was parked. I did it in the parking lot, it was my first year as an auto student so I was an idiot too. I drove the truck back, but I did mess it up. One of the locking rings has a tiny stud, I didn't line it up correctly and crushed it and good thing I brought it into suspension lab and the teacher helped fix it for me. After that I can do it with my eyes closed.
 
I've taken wheel locks off using vise grips. Just put them on as tight as you possibly can and have the handle slightly angled outward so you can give it a few sharp blows with a hammer.
 
<font color="red"> well, situation has changed. the rents flipped out about me puttin a new battle scar on the truck (pushed passenger rear in a wee bit when i grazed a tree last night) and decided to be AZZes and take it. o now i get to register it under my name and my own insurance. but anywho, seeing as most everyone says i gotta pull the rotor off to replace the studs, imma just snap the fuker off. lol. who cares. now, i have the hayns manual, but it doesn't show a damn thing related to my auto hubs. so, i'll just have to note every little thing like u guys said. so, now i get to ride my bmx bike 10miles each day to and get my fat ass in shape. lol. ok, so, seeing as i'll have plenty of time, i suppose i'll get this stuff goin. lol. thanks so much u guys! CK5 rocks! too bad i dun have a membership, o well, i suppose i'll hafto pay. they accept paypal right? /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif rock on! </font>
 
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