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Wheel well clearance problems *pics*

clarkjw24

clarkjw24

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I few weeks ago I did the 63" swap and just got around to testing the rear flex and clearance. I did some trimming but the tires are hitting the inside of the wheel wells. I currently don't run any bumpstops but I was wondering how others resolved the issue. I'm running h1s with 3.75" backspacing. With a spacer or less backspacing the tires will hit on the outside of the fenders. I would like to keep the wheel wells and the back seat for now. Somebody give me some options.

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That's the same problem I've run into with my 64's (same as your 63's... but mine measure 64" :haha: ) I ended up hacking the entire rear floor out and now I'm trying to get another body and not do so much hacking to that one. I really miss having inner fenders. I'd try limiting up travel with some bump stops. You really should limit those springs anyways because I hear they get worn out pretty quickly if you arch them negatively. Maybe you could take out the BFH and relieve some aggrivation on them until the tires hit less or until your seat rubs on the wheel wells???


Upon further review my post was totally useless and unhelpfull... sorry :rolleyes:
 
TruckNutzDude said:
Maybe you could take out the BFH and relieve some aggrivation on them until the tires hit less or until your seat rubs on the wheel wells???
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Thats a decent idea. I'll look at it in the morning and see if it will work. The large lugs on the tsl's are scrubbin. I really don't want to loose the rear seat so extending the fenderwells won't work. Maybe it will be an option when I get new seats for the front and move the current one's to the rear. Bumpstops are prob what I really need to save the springs but after seeing what it will do, its gonna be hard to limit myself. I had better pics with new trimming but they were too dark.
 
I dunno if this is even possible and i'm not gonna check cause its dark and raining, but why don't you relocate the shackles?
 
If your talking about the front shackle holders I could but I want the longer wheelbase.
 
Just pull the inner fenders out. If you are into mud and dont want it hitting you in the back of the head then you can fab up some new inners.
 
85mudblazin said:
Just pull the inner fenders out. If you are into mud and dont want it hitting you in the back of the head then you can fab up some new inners.
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I'm not "into" mud but if you live on the east coast thats not an option. All trails are wet or have wet places, no dry dust rocks around here.
 
I think the hammer method is gonna work the best for ya. I have the 63's, but no sheetmetal all, so I can't comment. One thing I can comment on, or recomend you do, is come up with some kind of ladder/traction bar. When I first installed my 63's, they wrapped up so bad it was scary.:eek1: Without a bar of somekind, the springs wil be alot more prone to bending. I bent mine, but that was from a full throttle, 7 minute run through the tank trap. :rolleyes: I broke other stuff too.

Anyways, I made a traction bar and the difference just seat of the pants was pretty unreal. Because all the engery was getting put to the wheels, and not into twisting the springs, it felt like another 20hp. :haha:
 
I removed my wheel wells and replaced the back seat jeep seat. fabbed up a bracket setup that allows it to fold and tumble. the plan was to replace the wheel wells with some sheet metal for spacing them in some, but the family never minded and it doesn't bother me, so I never got around to it. the jeep seat is only about as wide as the frame rails.


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Just make sure there are no sharp edges anywhere for the tire to catch on and let them rub. Thats how I can tell how far mine has flexed on a trail, I look for the new high rub mark.
 
When I come down we can just swap tires, the 39.5s should not have the same problem,:haha:
 
My 39.5's scrub the inside of the rear wheelwells about 8" up from the floor. I can always tell when the truck is really crossed up because I can hear the rear tire squeaking and scrubbing the wheelwells. :doah:

I run the 57" ford springs right now, and they do go pretty negative...don't really care if I fubar them though, I have Alcans waiting to go under the truck anyways.

My rear sheetmetal is trimmed about 2.5" higher than the factory wheel opening as well as being angled front and rear. The 39.5 tucks nicely into the wheel opening with the inner acting as the upper 'stop' :rolleyes:

Rene
 
Rene are you running bumpstops? I'm thinking I need some with the 63s. My 42s are scrubbin about half way up the wheel well.
 
Factory bumpstops, one is MIA and the other gets within about 3" of the axle tube when the tire rubbing hard stops further upward motion. I'd have to say 8" up is about halfway up that wheelwell...so i'm there with ya. :D

I'll eventually add correct and extended bumpstops when I have springs I care about under the rear...

Rene
 
Here are a couple pics of when I extended my wheel wells. I took 2 sets of inner fenders and had them fabbed together. Made the wheelwells 6 inches wider on each side and cut out the floor right next to the frame. I used PRP seats and had the rear custom built at 36 inches.

Another seat to think about using that is fairly cheap is the 3rd seat out of a station wagon like a 1989 chevy celebrity or olds wagon. They fold flat and have either carpet or hard back to them. You would just have to fab up some legs and they also come with belts.
 
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before my 42's, I ran the 36 hummers that came on my rims... they rubbed on the inside of the wheel well even... which is why I decided to remove them before ever wheeling the 42's. I've actually begun to like the open wheel wells. I can look back and see the ground around each tire... especially on the driver-side.
 
After some more testing, I think I'm going to try an limit up travel with some bump stops. If that doesn't work I think I'll cut just the inside of the wheel well and floor leaving the "hump" part intack.
 
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