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wheelbase---how long is too long for a trail truck

colelkhunter

1/2 ton status
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tennessee/colorado
I have an opportunity to pick up a 76 k-30 that has a dump bed on it. I plan to use it on my farm in building my new house then turn it to the dark side. Not exactly sure what the wheelbase is, but it's long. Longer than a long wheel base for sure. Has the perfect drivetrain setup in it. Fresh 454, sm465,203 with pto and hydraulics. Easily doubled transfer case and add a pto winch. Question is on the frame length. If I cut it and section it I could literaly make it any length I wanted. So the question is how short or long? Chop it all the way down to a SWB? or would a little longer be in order. Keep in mind I have the ability to do whatever I need to make it happen. Just wanted input before I started giving this too much thought.
 
usually longer wheel bases do better, but at the cost on manuverability.
 
If ya need it for towing, I'd keep the wheelbase a little long, for better stability. Is the wheelbase currently longer than a standard long bed pickup? You could cut it down to the length of a long bed and then cut the rear overhang down almost to the spring hangers, leaving just enough added length for a good bumper/hitch setup. That would give you a short rear overhang for better offroad worthiness but still a fairly long wheelbase for towing stability. Or, you could even cut the wheelbase down to between the shortbed and longbed wheelbases, kinda split the difference as a compromise, and still cut the rear overhang. The reduction in rear overhang will help you have a better departure angle and will help with towing since the hitch will be closer to the rear wheels so that the trailer has less leverage on your truck.
 
makes sense. It is a single cab truck and I estimate the wheelbase to be the same as a crewcab LWB truck. so yes it will have to get short. I will use it as it on my farm, then make it the next project after that. I plan to convert the back to disco and add HUMMV beadlocks all the way around to take advantage of the width.
 
120"s. Thats long enough to make most climbs easy, long enough to be able to tow something without that much problem.

Thats what I am at right now, but heres the rub, what size tires you want to run. The smaller the tire the more important shorter wheelbases become. I run 42s. I have run 40s and always wanted bigger. My buddy who is running right at 115, is fine with his 40s but both of us are hardcore crawlers.

If you plan to tow I would probably keep it on the long side 120-125 but not much longer than that. If you are going to run smaller tires ( I know realitive term) than concentrate on getting your transfer cases tucked up. Get a doubler that will allow some clocking of the 205. An inch of clearance at the belly is worth alot
 
Good info. This truck is already a beater, so boatsiding it with a flat belly plate may be the order of the day. After it has done my bidding on the farm of course. Planning to run a 40-44 inch tire with 6" of lift so sheetmetal will have to move. Also need to plan something for a bed, that is one of my unresolved issues in my brain. Make it short enough for a SWB bed, long enough for a LWB bed or put it where I want it and build a tube/flat bed for it. Weight being the only factor for me, and I know this truck is already going to be a fat pig. So I would like to put it on a diet as quick as possible.
 
Good info. This truck is already a beater, so boatsiding it with a flat belly plate may be the order of the day. After it has done my bidding on the farm of course. Planning to run a 40-44 inch tire with 6" of lift so sheetmetal will have to move. Also need to plan something for a bed, that is one of my unresolved issues in my brain. Make it short enough for a SWB bed, long enough for a LWB bed or put it where I want it and build a tube/flat bed for it. Weight being the only factor for me, and I know this truck is already going to be a fat pig. So I would like to put it on a diet as quick as possible.

I am going on a limb here but I am guessing it's a Cab and chassis truck single cab and about 11 foot dump bed.
That would be a 164" wheelbase as it sits.
A regular single cab long bed sits at 131" wheelbase.
It can work, but as said 120-125" wheelbase seems like a good compromise, although we have seen a 174" monster do great offroad but it was no ordinary truck "willyswanter" truck that is, he extended the wheelbase from the original 164".:doah:
I liked my 110" wheelbase jeep, but I will be building a 130-135" crew cab for offroad duties, I think I can make it good by tucking all the running gear out of harms way.
My advise is while you are using it on the farm, do as much research as you can and then when you are ready to do it, before you cut, come back here and discuss again.
:waytogo:
 
well I only need it for a couple weeks on the farm. That's why I am getting the questions out there now. Looking at ideas for tube flatbeds to cover the rear.
 
If you can get a totally flat belly a longer wheelbase is awesome. Plan on running 40s at a very minimum (this coming from a guy who does mostly rockcrawling) but a long wheel base with decent belly clearance will climb anything
 
what kind of trails do you have? here in oregon/washington we have alot of tight, small and tree lined trails. so shorter is better. overhang and wheelbase. even a k5 is "long" in this area. long bed wheelbase is almost redikerous sometimes.
just another consideration. but i wouldnt tow with a k5 on 40"+ tires either.
 
I am hoping to find a happy medium. Not looking to build a serious rock crawler, just a decent weekend warrior that will still be able to be used around the farm. it is important to me not to waste a good one ton truck on a past time that i only get to do occasionally.
 
I wheeled the northwest mostly and did it with a long bed for a while and it was way to long for wheeling out there. I cut the frame and wheeling at 114 for a bit but for hill climbs it was to short and never felt stable enough, i'm sitting at ~120 now on 40's and it's just about perfect for most stuff.
 
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