FL84K5
1/2 ton status
One wheel stud on each side on the front broke today when I was taking the lug nuts off. How do I replace them? Is this something a novice could do or am I better offleaving this to a mechanic?
CK5
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Wheels studs
- Thread starter FL84K5
- Start date
You'll have to take the hib/rotor assembly off (I believe) and then you can just pound out the old and put in the new. While your there, check the bearings and seals.
FL84K5
1/2 ton status
how do you remove the hub assembly? never done it before. My mechanical aptitude is pretty limited.
fortcollinsram
1/2 ton status
Assuming you have a manual locking front hub...take the hub out by removing the allen screws and pulling the locking unit out...then, there is a large internal snapring on the inner surface of the hub...I use a small flat-head screw driver to get it out..once that is out the remainder of the locking hub should come out...the you need a 4-prong hub socket available at the parts store...you need to take the outer lock nut off using the special hub socket...the there is a locking washer that needs to be removed via needle-nose pliars...then you need the 4-prong hub socket again to take out the inner hub nut...once you get the inner hub lock nut out (which look the same as the outter with the exception of the little "finger" if has to go into the locking washer you just removed) once that is out the hub/rotor assembly will just slide off the spindle...you will need to remove the caliper from the backing plate using, I believe, a 3/8" hex key....pull off the hub, hammer out the old studs hammer in new ones, pack you wheel bearings really well with grease and assemble...someone else can chime in on the torque setting of the two different wheel lock nuts...Good luck man...and it will al make sense once you tear into it...
Chris
Chris
That has got to be the most succinct description of that job I've seen -- congrats!
As for the original postI can't add anything useful, save the details like you'll prolly need a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet for the magic socket, and you'll get really really really greasy. Wheel bearing grease finds it way into the oddest crevices of your body in unpleasant ways. Did I mention you'll get greasy? Everywhere? Consider a long-sleeve shirt you don't ever want to see again, and invest wisely in a box of the nitrile rubber gloves. I pay about $15 for a box of 100, so that's 30c for two hands for a coupla hours. Well worth, IMHO.
And don't scratch your ear or nose. The wife is STILL laughing at me for getting &*$#!@&* grease into the nostrils. ("Smells like grease in here, hon ... smells like grease everywhere...")
Oh, and do the work, especially on the bearings, INSIDE the garage or someplace clean and not windy, and not in the driveway where all kinds of crap WILL float by in the breeze and land in your nice clean wheelbearings. Don't ask me why I know this LOL.
If the truck isn't your daily driver, start in on it and post your progress -- lots of people here, especially on the weekend, to help out as you delve deeply into the joy that is a solid front axle. Could be much worse, you could have IFS ;-)
Oh and it might be a good time to have your rotors checked for true-ness and turned, if necessary, since you'll have them off. Don't turn them if they don't need it -- it's shaving metal off, and dammit, that metal is $160 a side some places (for good US steel -- I was quoted less for Chinese, grr.)
As for the original postI can't add anything useful, save the details like you'll prolly need a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet for the magic socket, and you'll get really really really greasy. Wheel bearing grease finds it way into the oddest crevices of your body in unpleasant ways. Did I mention you'll get greasy? Everywhere? Consider a long-sleeve shirt you don't ever want to see again, and invest wisely in a box of the nitrile rubber gloves. I pay about $15 for a box of 100, so that's 30c for two hands for a coupla hours. Well worth, IMHO.
And don't scratch your ear or nose. The wife is STILL laughing at me for getting &*$#!@&* grease into the nostrils. ("Smells like grease in here, hon ... smells like grease everywhere...")
Oh, and do the work, especially on the bearings, INSIDE the garage or someplace clean and not windy, and not in the driveway where all kinds of crap WILL float by in the breeze and land in your nice clean wheelbearings. Don't ask me why I know this LOL.
If the truck isn't your daily driver, start in on it and post your progress -- lots of people here, especially on the weekend, to help out as you delve deeply into the joy that is a solid front axle. Could be much worse, you could have IFS ;-)
Oh and it might be a good time to have your rotors checked for true-ness and turned, if necessary, since you'll have them off. Don't turn them if they don't need it -- it's shaving metal off, and dammit, that metal is $160 a side some places (for good US steel -- I was quoted less for Chinese, grr.)
xnoahx
1/2 ton status
It is a real easy job, once you get into it. once you get the rotor off, just take a large hammer and pound on the lugs maybe add some penatrating lube. You should replace them all since they arent expensive and its a bit of work getting there. to install new ones, get a lugnut from the parts store that has a flat bottom(not tapered) and some washers and put it on the stud you are installing. it works real well if you have an air ratchet at getting the snug into the rotor but you can also do it with a normal ratchet, thats how I did mine. And just remember that the lock washer goes between the two spindle nuts, I installed mine wrong and later on I ruined my spindle, axle shaft, bearings, and warn premium locking hub. It was a real pain. /forums/images/icons/crazy.gif
4x4Freak
1/2 ton status
Be sure you tighten the locking nuts to the right torque (especially the outer) because they can loosen after a while. I had this happen to me once and it shredded the big spring for the locking hub and messed up the wheel bearing on the driver side. I bout crapped my pants when I saw the tire move about 2 in. when I jacked it up. This could have been very dangerous if the wheel had come off, but luckily I caught it in time.
I definitely recommend changing out all the studs because if those two were weak then the others probably are too. I only had one left by the time I got my truck into the shop to change them. Besides, they are only about $1/ea.
And dont forget to retighten the lug nuts after you drive it for a little while.
I definitely recommend changing out all the studs because if those two were weak then the others probably are too. I only had one left by the time I got my truck into the shop to change them. Besides, they are only about $1/ea.
And dont forget to retighten the lug nuts after you drive it for a little while.
