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When does it end?!?!?!? *got the codes it threw*

Avery4jc said:
yeah but the only way to do that is to hook it up to the computer at the smog station right?

No. Autozone's will read and clear TC's at no cost around AZ. I would expect that to be nationwide.

Check with your friends. Someone may have a reader.
 
AZ79K5Project said:
No. Autozone's will read and clear TC's at no cost around AZ. I would expect that to be nationwide.

Check with your friends. Someone may have a reader.
advance auto is the same.. checks ur computer for free. i did that to mine a few times..
 
k20 said:
Mine did that, I broke a rocker, bent a pushrod, and broke a guideplate......:crazy:
2 of my 400sb did that. One was in the Blazer doing about 3500 rpm on the freeway. It was the Exhaust rocker so it sounded(and felt) like a broke a driveshaft untill I shut the motor off and fixed.

2nd one was on the blue truck. It did exactly what he described. Had a loud pop, then I lost power. It sounded just find after. Even sounded ok revving it up. It ended up being the intake rocker arm stud broke, bent a pushrod then popped the rocker off.

Just pop your valve cover off and see..........
 
The money isn't an issue for testing...our family has been taking stuff to his shop since we had our '73 3/4 ton sub as our daily driver back when I was like 5.

He opens at 8:00 so I'm heading over at 7:45 and he always lets me pull it in and we get started before people get there. We'll see what codes it threw and then start tearing into it to check it out.

Oh and btw someone earlier asked if the pop on decelleration was from the carb or the exhaust...its from the exhaust. The only new noise coming from the engine is that hissing/sucking noise.
 
a simple air leak can cause this much loss of power?

I wonder what that insanely loud pop was though.
 
well air has to do with your air/fuel mix, loose one of the two and you have problems...


only 3 things are needed,


fuel
air
spark

couple thing to check that are easy to do,

-get a compression tester, plugs into the spark plug hole after you pull the plug. this is a easy way to tell if its a big problem.

-check your timing, a quick check with a timing light can tell you alot, some have posted thing such as maybe having your chain jump???

-fuel pressure? buy a cheap inline fuel pressure guage and install it, it help to figure out current of future problems.

-look at your vaccume lines, you just had tranny work done, were they near the hook ups on your intake? couldhave moved a line just enough to fatigue it if it was dried out,



when i mentioned the carb gasket, the thing ran great, seemed to have a power loss and made some odd noise. also on my injected jeep, when the fuel regulator was going out the jeep would pop like crazy when i reved it due to lack of fuel.


good luck, little issues are what makes us learn real quick:D



are you carbed, fuel injected or computer controlled carb?
 
I believe computer controlled carb for '85. At least for the smog setup.
 
I just used the paperclip trick and its throwing a code 41 and 42. My paper says

code 42 "Ignition Control: Open/short/component failure" or " Direct Ignition System (DIS) fault - bypass circuit open or shorted ground during engine run" or "Fuel Cutoff Relay Circuit - open or shorted to ground"

code 41 "Camshaft sensor failure" or "cylinder select error" or "tach input error"


Now what guys?
 
Ok I just got back from the shop and the guy nailed it perfectly as far as my symptoms go. He was closing at noon so he said bring it back monday and he can take care of it no problem.
He had me fire it up and he checked around and he said first of all we need to get new plugs and wires then after that he can check why the timing is so far off. He said that is hands down why its running this way and also the reason behind code 42.
 
Thats good news! Probably jumped time by a tooth or two. Hopefully you can just put in a new timing chain and be back on the road!

Do yourself a favor. If you have to replace the timeing chain put in a reman water pump while you are at it - they are cheap. I had to replace the one on my pickup and didn't replace the pump. Two months later I had to tear it all apart again to replace the water pump. Man what a waste of time to save $35!!!
 
Avery4jc said:
I just used the paperclip trick and its throwing a code 41 and 42. My paper says

code 42 "Ignition Control: Open/short/component failure" or " Direct Ignition System (DIS) fault - bypass circuit open or shorted ground during engine run" or "Fuel Cutoff Relay Circuit - open or shorted to ground"

code 41 "Camshaft sensor failure" or "cylinder select error" or "tach input error"


Now what guys?

could just be this camshaft sensor. Might be causing the computer go into limp home mode.
 
Code 42 is EST or Bypass fault, while 41 is no distributor reference signal. (Both out of my '85 Olds manual)

It sounds like timing is supposed to be high at idle like TBI/TPI. Just like pulling the codes, you are supposed to ground the test terminal (pin B on the ALDL connector) and THEN check that timing is at the "base", whatever your underhood sticker says. It probably even mentions how to set timing.

Code 41 can be vac or MAP sensor. Clear the codes (pull the ECM fuse or battery cable for 10 seconds) then turn the key to run. If the ECM sets a code, then it's a vac or MAP sensor problem.

Apparently with the CCC setup you can actually set a code 12, but it's when the engine is running and you see that code that it's a problem.
 
My guess is. A bad magnetic pick up coil. (That is also your camshaft sensor.)
Might also want to replace the distributor module while you are in there.

Might want to check if the timing bypass wire got disconnected.
 
pop off the cap and rotor on your dist and compare with an LMC catalog, youll know it when you see it
 
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