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When it comes time for new tires....

NEK5

NEK5

3/4 ton status
Joined
Oct 25, 2005
Posts
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Location
Ipswich MA
what should i go with, 33s or 35s. I`ve been thinking alot about it these last two or three days. I`m going with kerts shackle flip, and zero rates from ORD, so will have around 5" net lift. I`m ready to trim if need be :D. I`m thinking more of my axles than anything. What should i do with them??? right now I`m running 1/2 tons, 3.73s, and a posi in the rear. I definitely want to lock the rear, no question, but should i do that in a 10 bolt, with 35s, and a heavy foot...You`re talking to a man that killed both axles his first time out:eek1: :o :D .... How many 1tonners out there on 35s???? Is it over kill? I`d rather just go one ton if I`m changing at all....just skipping right over 3/4 ton, unless if that would be better off? I can get my hands on a dana 60 fairly easy, and maybe even a 14sf or ff....
 
I`m mostly wanting to know if there are a lot of people with the 1 ton/35" combo?
 
Personally, I ran 35's on a stock 3/4 ton Burb (10b front) with no problem. I am stepping up to 1 ton gear soon and have run 37's without a problem for a short time. 35's should not come close to breaking things if you have 1 ton gear.

My point was that if you intend on eventually running 1 ton gear, why mess with the 3/4 ton stuff at all. Do it right the first time and save the $$$ and grief.
 
Ya, I think you should go with a shackle flip and get a bunch of 1" zero rates. Then throw on some 35"s of your choice. (My old 35"s will be available soon ;) :deal: ). Also look in the Want Advertizer under the truck parts section. There are always sets of axels for sale locally. Everything from 1/2 to 2.5 ton stuff is available almost every week. The only thing that I have been hard pressed to find is a 14Bsf in there. But talk to Dave, his uncle own a scrap yard in Belligham with a bunch of axels available there. I plan to grab a 14Bsf from him.
 
I could be the cool kid on the block with 1tons on 35s...Sounds pretty undestructable to me....What should i be looking at for gears? 4.10s? got the 700, so i have OD....
 
maybe a stupid question, is the 8 lug 10 bolt 3/4 ton or 1 ton?
 
The question should be, 35's or 37's. A 60 is definately overkill, but what do you have to lose but a little ground clearance. With 35's and a locker you will definately have breakage issues running a (stock) 10b or 44 up front. Once built they are significantly stronger, but still not as strong as a stock 60. If 35's are all you want, then a built 10b/ SF 14 combo would work well. If 35's are just the beginning, then you'll want the 1-tons. For gearing, 5.13's. It sounds rediculous at first, but go play with numbers in a gear/ RPM calculator, and it makes sense because of how deep the OD is in the 700. If you're thinking 33's, 35's maybe and don't tow or drive hard, then you could get away with 4.56's, but if you're going to change the gears go deeper. IMO, as soon as you get the 35's you're going to want bigger. I installed 33's a few days ago and am ready for 35's, or 37's. For an all purpose rig it's hard to beat a 37x12.5 MTR or KM.
 
bowtiepower00 said:
The question should be, 35's or 37's. A 60 is definately overkill, but what do you have to lose but a little ground clearance. With 35's and a locker you will definately have breakage issues running a (stock) 10b or 44 up front. Once built they are significantly stronger, but still not as strong as a stock 60. If 35's are all you want, then a built 10b/ SF 14 combo would work well. If 35's are just the beginning, then you'll want the 1-tons. For gearing, 5.13's. It sounds rediculous at first, but go play with numbers in a gear/ RPM calculator, and it makes sense because of how deep the OD is in the 700. If you're thinking 33's, 35's maybe and don't tow or drive hard, then you could get away with 4.56's, but if you're going to change the gears go deeper. IMO, as soon as you get the 35's you're going to want bigger. I installed 33's a few days ago and am ready for 35's, or 37's. For an all purpose rig it's hard to beat a 37x12.5 MTR or KM.
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I`m trying my best to keep this as street legal as i can, although I have connections in MA, I wont if i plan on moving to NH...I`ve had 33s since the day i got the truck, and i could easily stay with them....for a trail rig/dd, its a pretty good setup, but i think i may go with 35s, just because:D , lol, the price difference in them arent really noticeable between the two sizes...37s definitely too much for me, as well as 5.13s....

So I think 35s are my limit, and i think 4.10s are the gears of choice, unless if you fellas think 4.56s would be more ideal???

I figured 1 tons would be over kill, if all i plan on is no bigger than 35s. I knew about the lower ground clearance, but now that i think of it, thats one thing I DONT need:D

BTP, I`ve been thinking about the 14SF. For the 10B, 3/4 ton, or 1/2 ton?

Whats the difference in ground clearance between the SF and FF?

Another potentially stupid question, can you lock a 14SF? Don`t know why, but I though I heard you couldnt?

EDIT: I`ll only be locking the rear, JICYW
 
Who told you that? You can lock any axel out there. I know detroit makes stuff for the 14Bsf.

I think ground clearance difference is about an inch.
 
As long as you got a welder you can lock anything hehe.

But seriously go with 35s right from the start. 1-tons and 35s will be almost unbreakable. As for gears I'd go with 4.56 rather than 4.10
 
Should I build up my 1/2 ton 10 bolt, or go with 3/4 ton?? and did they offer an 8 lug 14SF as well? or just 6 lug?

Whoever chooses the SF over the FF, or vice versa, why?
 
The 14 bolt sf comes in 6lug and 8lug. But I would go with a 14bff. They are stronger and not to hard to find.

Try and get one from a k20, then it will have the same spring spacing as ur blazer. Then build up a 3/4ton front axle or if u can find a dana60 go with that.

earlier this year I bought a pair of axles from a k20 for $200 they both had 4.10 gear and I was planning on putting them in my truck next year, but I came across the deal of a lifetime dana 60 and couldnt pass it up
 
Any one else rather go with a FF over SF? If so why? Any years better than others?

Also, did they offer a 3/4 ton D60, or just 1 ton?

I can get a 60 easy, but is the swap hard?
 
Let me school you on the 14bsf:

The 14bsf first was introduced in 81 on 3/4 ton trucks, vans, and suburbans. It remained unchanged until 88, when it changed slightly for the new body style trucks. The only difference between the 81-87 version and the newer 88+ style is the spring perches are located slightly differently. The 81-87 is a direct bolt in with exception for a conversion u-joint. But it was only available in 8 lug. The 88+ style needs to move the spring perches and the conversion u-joint but otherwise bolts right in. It was available in both 6 and 8 lug depending on the GVRW of the truck it was under. Axel widths varied slightly depending on if was in a 2wd or 4wd or if it was under a van. But all widths should bolt up.

Since the 81-87 14bsf bolts directly into place it would be easiest to put under your K5. But, since it was only available in 8 lug, that becomes a problem because if you up grade to 8 lug, why not go for a 14bff... There are aftermarket 6 lug axel shafts available that will fit it, but the entire brake drum assembly will have to be swapped out to the newer 88+ 6 lug drum assembly. As long as the 81-87 14bsf and the 88+ 14bsf are the same exact width, I believe the axel shafts are interchangeable.

So your options for running a 6 lug 14bsf are:

1. get a 88+ 6 lugger and move the spring perches and bolt it in (cheapest option)

2. get a 81-87 for the housing and a 88+ 6 lug for the guts, and then do the neccessary swapping. (cheapest way to do this without a welder)

3. get a 81-87 and put aftermarket chromo 6 lug axel shafts into it and go to your GM dealer and buy the entire brake assembly for a 88+ 6 lug (most expesive option, but with all new parts)


Oh, and most 14bsf have 4.10 gears, but they can be found in 3.73 and the extremely rare 4.56.
 
Any one else rather go with a FF over SF? If so why?
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Your wheel can break off with a SF and the ring gear is smaller. FF are WAY stronger and you wheel wont fall off.
 
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