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When to upgrade to 1 Ton Axles

S

SIK5

1/2 ton status
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West Texas Desert Hell Hole
Hey gang!

I need some advise.

I'm upgrading my 350ci engine to a 498ci (basically a race engine).

I know I will need to bolster my current TH350 and NP203 TC (or completely replace with a built TH400 and NP208).

What combo do you guys recommend? I will be doing some sand drag racing but mainly just cruising trails at a high rate of speed. My buddies swear up and down I need to upgrade to 1 ton axles.

I currently have the stock Dana 44 and Corporate 12" with NP203 and TH350. I think the gears are 2.73's the previous owner installed. I'm thinking I need 4.10's with posi but not sure.

Thanks in advance!

Blazer 1.1.jpg

Blazer 1.1.jpg
 
skip the 208 for a 241 .

run till you break stuff then fix each part . easy to find the weak links .

lots of beef in 1tons and also lots of extra drag and weight over 1/2 tons .

so plan out what your real world needs will be .

and a th400 eats 20-25 more hp over a th350 . so might be in your favor to build the th350 up . this keep more of your power to the ground .
 
Well . . .

Upgrade the parts you have, or just get spare stuff like axle shafts, for fast trail running as long as your tires aren't over 35"s you should be ok.
 
Sand drags and trail running

Either do the upgraded th350 or a 400. The T-case can stay or do a 205 for a little more beef. By the sounds of it, you don't use 4L much, but plan to put a lot of power through the drive train. I would only go with the weaker 208/241 if you NEED the extra 4L ration.

If this motor is bad ass, you might want to look into a 14b rear. In the sand, tires have a chance to spin, so there isn't as much stress on things. BUT, if you start to push the truck during drag racing, or running rear paddles, you are going to want a stronger rear axle. Leave the front open for easier steering and call it good.
 
You guys rock! Wow lot of good information. Thanks…

It's a relief that my stock set up will handle the power. I do not do any rock climbing at all so 4 low is not used really. I will most likely rebuild my TH350 with performance guts and possibly change to a 241 or 208. I am not a huge fan of being AWD with my current NP203. I will need to purchase front locking hubs if I go NP208 or NP241 right? Or is there a 2wd kit for the NP203…is it reliable?

I will also definitely look into upgrading the rear to a 14 bolt. That is a good idea and insurance to boot.

My 498 BBC will be 12.5:1 comp with 290 cc AFR heads and a QFT 1000 CFM carb on top. Also, Lunati Voodoo cam with Eagle crank and rods. Pumped up with a 200 shot of NOS. Should be quite potent… :thumb:
 
Yeah, $100 is the max I'd pay for a 14b. Or get one for half that at a junkyard.

Also, look into a 205 T-case like I said. It will handle the power WAY better than a 208/241. It is NOT AWD, it is selectable. If you are cable speedo, you can only use a 1989 241 or swap parts into a VSS 241. Make sure the cases you are looking at are passenger side drop. But really, I recommend the 205 again, it's cheaper too.

Or save the 203 and just run some locking hubs for now. This way you can run them unlocked while on the road. You'll still have both driveshafts turning, but only the rear will see power. Later you can do the 205 and you'll already have hubs.
 
Think 14 BFF runs different prices in different areas. I looked high low etc finally found 78 K20 with 14 BFF with matching gear set for $250 and had new shoes etc on inside. Around here there not cheap for one actually.
Also can use H2 wheels there cheap if you look and look.
 
K85 Octane said:
Yeah, $100 is the max I'd pay for a 14b. Or get one for half that at a junkyard.

Also, look into a 205 T-case like I said. It will handle the power WAY better than a 208/241. It is NOT AWD, it is selectable. If you are cable speedo, you can only use a 1989 241 or swap parts into a VSS 241. Make sure the cases you are looking at are passenger side drop. But really, I recommend the 205 again, it's cheaper too.

Or save the 203 and just run some locking hubs for now. This way you can run them unlocked while on the road. You'll still have both driveshafts turning, but only the rear will see power. Later you can do the 205 and you'll already have hubs.
Click to expand...

I will certainly look into a 205 TC as well thanks
 
brans87 said:
Think 14 BFF runs different prices in different areas. I looked high low etc finally found 78 K20 with 14 BFF with matching gear set for $250 and had new shoes etc on inside. Around here there not cheap for one actually.
Also can use H2 wheels there cheap if you look and look.
Click to expand...

Yeah, nothing is cheap in my area either :dunno:

My buddy got some H2 wheels for his. If I find a 8 lug 14 bolt I'll prolly get the 6 lug adapters
 
In any case I would recommend a 14 bolt full-floater axle.......relatively cheap and easy to bolt in. Do it once and be done in regards to strength. 4.10's are also a common ratio for these. When doing this go ahead and swap the front to 8-lug. This way down the road if you decide to go with a 1-ton (D60) front it just bolt in and go. The easiest and cheapest option is to find a matching 8-lug D44 or 10-bolt front axle so you don't have the expense of swapping gears, and time-wise it is faster to swap the entire axle then setup the gears.

If you break most parts on the front often you can just put the truck back in 2wd and head home. Breaking the rear is usually a big deal and will can easily disable the truck.

You do not HAVE to put on locking hubs with the 205/208/241 transfer cases. It will still behave the same in 2wd with the only exception being the front axle internals and driveshaft will spin. About the only issues that causes is if the front driveshaft it unbalanced and will vibrate on the road, or slightly less MPG (pretty sure you are not worried about that).

Overall there are a lot of other things besides just the axles you should be worrying about when slapping a fire breathing engine in an older truck and wanting to go fast. Steering, suspension, brakes, and simply keeping the frame straight are concerns.
 
6.2Blazer said:
In any case I would recommend a 14 bolt full-floater axle.......relatively cheap and easy to bolt in. Do it once and be done in regards to strength. 4.10's are also a common ratio for these. When doing this go ahead and swap the front to 8-lug. This way down the road if you decide to go with a 1-ton (D60) front it just bolt in and go. The easiest and cheapest option is to find a matching 8-lug D44 or 10-bolt front axle so you don't have the expense of swapping gears, and time-wise it is faster to swap the entire axle then setup the gears.

If you break most parts on the front often you can just put the truck back in 2wd and head home. Breaking the rear is usually a big deal and will can easily disable the truck.

You do not HAVE to put on locking hubs with the 205/208/241 transfer cases. It will still behave the same in 2wd with the only exception being the front axle internals and driveshaft will spin. About the only issues that causes is if the front driveshaft it unbalanced and will vibrate on the road, or slightly less MPG (pretty sure you are not worried about that).

Overall there are a lot of other things besides just the axles you should be worrying about when slapping a fire breathing engine in an older truck and wanting to go fast. Steering, suspension, brakes, and simply keeping the frame straight are concerns.
Click to expand...


I concur! Yup, I will need to possibly look into a traction bar and maybe lowering the suspension. It will be a neat trick keeping this beast going straight with this power plant. I'm going to need a roll cage ASAP as well. This thing is slowly nickle and diming me!

Good advise on changing the front to 8 lug if I do go that route. By the way...are you saying I do not need hubs for a NP205? I thought the NP203 was all wheel drive only...unless I got the adapter kit making it 2 wheel. I thought I'd need hubs installed to facilitate changing from 2 wheel to 4 wheel.
 
SIK5 said:
Good advise on changing the front to 8 lug if I do go that route. By the way...are you saying I do not need hubs for a NP205? I thought the NP203 was all wheel drive only...unless I got the adapter kit making it 2 wheel. I thought I'd need hubs installed to facilitate changing from 2 wheel to 4 wheel.
Click to expand...

Going from 2wd to 4wd is done in the transfer case. All the locking hubs do is disconnect the front tires from the front diff and driveshaft with the main purpose of helping fuel economy a little. Many 4wd vehicles do not have any type of locking hubs.
 
You could just put the part time kit in your NP203. That is what I would do in your situation. No messing with drive shafts, cross members, speedo cables, etc.

Martin
 
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