where can i get a shaft resplined

[big83chevy4x4]

im working on a project (top secret ) and need a shaft resplined to fit a 32 spline input.
but i may not beable to respline it, will find out tomorrow when i put it on the lathe to turn it down. if i can't use it i will need to have a custom one built with the correct splines on both ends.

where can i send it to get it resplined or who make a new one?

 

[ryan22re]

im guessing an axle manufacturer. like currie, moser and the like.

i dunno about heat treating?

ill be looking to have the same thing done in a little while, so post up with what you find.

 

[afroman006]

We know you are making a 208 or 241 doubler, so cut the crap. The guy in my club looking at doing it was thinking about annealing it first and then re-heat treating it after its turned down and resplined.

 

[CyberSniper]

What are you trying to do? Respline a 35 spline 2wd SM465 output to 32 spline so you have a short 465/241? The cheapest I could find was ~$200 and that was a "friend of a friend" doing it. The heat treating part was like $125.

 

[Hossbaby50]

Northwest Fab might be able to make you a part or repline it for you.

Harley

 

[big83chevy4x4]

if its gonna cost that much, its not really gonna be worth it.

i seen something on pirate a while back taking a broken output shaft and cutting it on a lathe and rewelding up then machining the weld down so its a perfect shaft again. i wish i could find it again, i can't remember how they held the second part to get it straight.

from what i have found, getting it cryoed is the most cost effective way to harden it. its fairly cheap also, can't find a specific price for an output shaft, but something similar is $40-50.

Respline a 35 spline 2wd SM465 output to 32 spline so you have a short 465/241?

nope, wouldn't be a bad idea if i had a blazer, but with a 11 foot wheelbase, why?

yall will see soon what im building

 

[CyberSniper]

nope, wouldn't be a bad idea if i had a blazer, but with a 11 foot wheelbase, why?

yall will see soon what im building

Well, it was the only thing I could think of that'd require a shaft to be resplined that would be affordable vs buying somebody else's stuff.

 

[K30CJ]

I believe the Badlands Machine Shop can do splining.

http://www.badlandsoffroad.com/machineshop.asp

 

[protechk5]

maybe talk to rdn2blazerhe works at a machine shop http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162219

 

[protechk5]

and if you do it, you better keep us updated

 

[big83chevy4x4]

i think i found a way to do it with out needed it resplined. i can do it right on the lathe. i just need to figure out the length that i need, if i can do that tonight, i should have it done tomorrow. ill be sure to take some pics of it, and post up when im done.

 

[KrebsATM02]

First post here in a long time... I've recently had a second wind with blazers...

Anyways, I'm building a buggy with a 465 to 241 planetaries to a ford 205. I'm using a Ford Dana 60 HP so I need the ford 205. Also, it has a 31 spline input and the 32 spline front output.

So, as Afroman was saying, I'm resplining 2 shafts. First, a 2wd 465 to 27 splines which is the input of the 241. Second, I need to turn down the 241 shaft, spline it, then cut it to the proper length.

The main problem is the hardness of the shafts. I haven't messed with the 465 shaft yet, but the 241 shaft has a hardnes of Rockwell 60c. I chucked it up in the lathe and used a carbide cutter and it shot out glowing red strings!!!

I work on campus doing machining support for research. I work with Metalurgists with Phd's... I have access to head treating furnaces, but they are scared that the shafts will warp if not heat treated/annealed correctly and advised sending it to a company that specializes in heat treating.

This discouraged me, so I decided to investigate what other people do to respline shafts. I talked with a machine shop owner on pirate and he said you have to use ceramic inserts at a high speed and a fast feed rate. He claims this actually anneals the the shaft where it is being machined. I haven't received my ceramic inserts yet so I have no experience with this. Whatever you do, don't use coolant!

 

[surpip]

there is a guy on pirate that is out of lincon ca that does heat trating and cryogenics.
http://www.performancecryogenics.com/contact.html

 

[big83chevy4x4]

The main problem is the hardness of the shafts. I haven't messed with the 465 shaft yet, but the 241 shaft has a hardnes of Rockwell 60c. I chucked it up in the lathe and used a carbide cutter and it shot out glowing red strings!!!

this may pose a problem that i didn't think of, how can i tell what the hardness is without a expensive tester? its a bit older than the 241 shaft, but doesn't mean its not softer. ive been told that they are only surface hardened, not sure how deep. is it gonna kill the carbide bits if i turn it down?

i may take my grinder and grind the first little bit off, then turn it down with the lathe.

i hope this isn't gonna turn into a nightmare.

 

[KrebsATM02]

If it's a wear surface, ie a bearing surface or spline contact, it's going to around the hardness of mine. From my understanding most shafts are induction hardened. Remember, don't use coolant, it can cause the carbide to crack/chip. Best bet is to order some ceramic inserts, as the proper one is made to cut at this hardness.

Mount your grinder on the tool post! Just be sure to clean up the dust, as it's not good for the ways.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

i put it on the lathe today, the hardness is only about .080 thick. once you get threw that its a peice of cake to cut into it. i used a carbide bit. i tried to cut the splines, it just killed the bit. so i ground the splines down with the grinder. then cut it with the carbide.

my grandpa (its his lathe) thinks that when i go to weld it, its gonna warp too much and not be straight, but once i chucked it to the lathe, i seen that the factory shaft is not straight. i couldn't find the dial indicator to see how far out it was, but enough that you can see it, it was probably .010 out near the center.

i cut it on the chop saw about where i thought it needed to be, but is still way too long. gonna have to shorten it again. im gonna go back sunday and work all afternoon on it. i will post up the finished pics on monday.

 

[KrebsATM02]

Are you using a live center in the tail stock? i'm guessing you used the factory center drill holes? I can't imagine it being off .010. How long is this mystery shaft, and when you going to tell us what it is? Why are you welding it? That doesn't sound like a good idea, although I have heard of people doing it.

Try to chuck it up several times in the lathe to get it straighter. What kind of chuck are you using? Auto centering?

 

[big83chevy4x4]

yes using the live center tail stock, using the factory hole in the end. the shaft was about 20" long. the chuck is auto centering, its straight at the chuck and at the tail stock, just in the middle is where its off, and the .010 is a guess as i couldn't find the dial indicator. i have thought that it may have been bent, but i had no issues with it before. where is was off has been cut out so i can shorten it im welding it because its something i can do, ive seen it done before, and im not exactly sure how long it needs to be. i an play with the length to get it right where i want it. im going to send it to performance cyro that surpip posted about when im done to get it heat treated then frozen (or vice versa, not sure how they do it)

 

[jekquistk5]

So is anyone working on a 241/205 doubler.. I'm soo freaking interested in this.

 

[KrebsATM02]

So is anyone working on a 241/205 doubler.. I'm soo freaking interested in this.

Thats what I'm doing... I can't really produce them though, as the machines I use aren't mine. Other than the shaft it's a pretty simple idea.

I can't remember where I first saw the idea, but I know it was a guy in sweden a few years ago. He was using 208 planetaries and made an entire new case. Anyways, if you need an idea, you can always look at mad roosters 231 kit.