Where can I get...

[Mastiff]

I'm thinking about an interior tire carrier build and one option would be to mount the tire using the big threaded rod approach like on this pre-runner carrier. Anyone know if/where I could get just the raw material, like the rod itself and the receptacle for it?

 

[diesel4me]

Threaded rod can be had at just about any hardware store or home center like Lowes or Home Depot,or if you want grade 5 or 8 you can source it from W.W. Grainger or McMaster-Carr...
They also have "Rod Coupler Nuts" that are extra long,about 2",intended to join two rods together at the same places..

 

[Mastiff]

I guess I assumed this stuff is different from "all-thread" at the hardware store. You can't see well in the pic, but I figure the threads are very coarse and angled relatively steep so you don't need to turn it a million times. I'll go have a look how big they get at Ace though, might be good enough.

 

[Mastiff]

Heck, McMaster has everything for this project on one page. Unfortunately, the rod comes in 6' lengths for $65.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#coil-threaded-rods/=zvmt02

"Coil-style threads are shallow and widely spaced for fast threading and quick assembly. Their thread design minimizes the accumulation of dirt and debris."

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

Heck, McMaster has everything for this project on one page. Unfortunately, the rod comes in 6' lengths for $65.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#coil-threaded-rods/=zvmt02

"Coil-style threads are shallow and widely spaced for fast threading and quick assembly. Their thread design minimizes the accumulation of dirt and debris."

On average i put in 30 mcmaster carr orders a day....call them...they will cut it down for you. Youd be amazed at what they will go through to get you what you need!

 

[dyeager535]

Made an under-trailer tire "mount" using the threaded rod (5/8" in this case, proper diameter) and instead of using a single bolt in the center, I used two pieces of rod as if they were lug studs.

The trailer tire is fairly narrow (205MM), but by extending what the threaded rod is welded to, it reduces the ability of it to flex by reducing the threaded length.

To make sure it didn't vibrate loose (its bolted in upside down obviously), I just used 5/8" nylock nuts to keep the tire in place. Not the prettiest thing, and if you use your spare often, quite a bit more hassle than a single point mount as pictured that doesn't need tools to remove. You could weld a nut to the inside of the proper diameter pipe, then weld a piece of steel over the top for a t-handle.

 

[skunked]

I'd rather see the tire secured better if it's in the cab of the truck. It's not like you'll be removing the tire often enough to justify a quick change setup like a t-handle.

Something like this is readily available and would utilize the stock lugs https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/STMP-LG.html

 

[Mastiff]

I'd rather see the tire secured better if it's in the cab of the truck. It's not like you'll be removing the tire often enough to justify a quick change setup like a t-handle.

Something like this is readily available and would utilize the stock lugs https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/STMP-LG.html

Agreed. DIY4x has a very similar thing. It's obvious how to use that with a bumper mount, but in this case, when the tire diameter changes, the height of the mount needs to adapt, since it will be sitting vertically on the bed. I can't quite picture how to get something like that to float +/- a few inches to account for different kinds of tires and 35 vs 37. With the single mount I can put slop in the plate that pushes against the wheel. At least that's kind of what I was thinking. This single thread thing also easily adapts to getting the depth right since you just torque it until the tire squeezes a little into the mount. Otherwise I think I'll need to devise something that telescopes in and out.

 

[Mastiff]

On average i put in 30 mcmaster carr orders a day....call them...they will cut it down for you. Youd be amazed at what they will go through to get you what you need!

They said no. Maybe you get special treatment for being a high volume customer.

 

[diesel4me]

Heck, McMaster has everything for this project on one page. Unfortunately, the rod comes in 6' lengths for $65.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#coil-threaded-rods/=zvmt02

"Coil-style threads are shallow and widely spaced for fast threading and quick assembly. Their thread design minimizes the accumulation of dirt and debris."

That looks like an Acme thread,like the screw on a vise uses...that can be had at various suppliers too...or you can rob the rod and nut from a sissors jack from the junkyard!...

 

[dhcomp]

Mount the truck side of all thread on some sort of pivot or hinge. Then you can move it up/down a bit to account for different tire sizes. I'd stick with all thread with some sort of fabricated wing nut and washer plate

 

[runamok151]

How big of a spare are you looking to keep back there? I know I couldn't put anything bigger than a 33 behind the seat and still close the tailgate in my K5.

That looks like an Acme thread,like the screw on a vise uses...that can be had at various suppliers too...or you can rob the rod and nut from a sissors jack from the junkyard!...

That's exactly what I thought. Horror Freight sells a cheap 4" drill press vice and a 6" carpenters vice that you could strip down to use the threaded rod. The rod in the carpenters vice is a thicker and comes w/ a t handle built in.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=vice

 

[diesel4me]

I'd just use a sissors jack rod & nut--they are (usually) made of good steel to bear heavy weight loads,and you can get a never used one cheap at a boneyard--some sissors jacks acme rod use nylon nuts though,on import cars jacks,those might offer rust resistance and prevent the thing from rusting and seizing up if you dont use the spare for a long time..


But I would prefer a steel nut and grease the rod good though, to prevent it from rusting..I'd be leery of trusting nylon to hold a spare weighing 50+ lbs..
You do not want a spare mounted under a truck coming down on you at speed,believe me..

A vise would have a cast iron nut for the acme rod which would be brittle and not weld well,I'd not use one for this puropse..for what you'd pay for a Harbor Freight vise ,you could just buy acme thread rod and nuts from an online source cheap..I'd just gut a sissors jack..


I had one of my trucks drop the spare when the under the bed spare tire crossmember thing rotted off and let it crash down going 65 mph...saw sparks for 100 feet,and by the time I got the truck off the road and stopped,the sidewall on the spare blew out,rubbed a hole clean through the sidewall..it was "fun" trying to get the truck off the spare,which wedged itself nicely under the rear of the bed,and had taken most of the weight off the springs..
You'll want to use beefy hardware for this job...

BTW--anyone ever see where they put the spare on a 2003 Caravan ?
It is dead center UNDER the van,covered by a plastic cover--it has a crank handle next to the drivers seat to supposedly lower the spare down via a cable...(Ha!)...too bad when the van has a flat there is about 3" ground clearance,no way your getting under it,or that spare out from under it--hell,you cant even fit the jack under it to lift it!.....great engineering Mopar !..

I learned this the other day at my friends shop,he had one on the lift,and it took him about a half hour of fooling with the mechanism to get the spare to come off !...the owner said he'll never put another tire in that spot ,EVER,after having to get towed in with only a flat tire...
There is room enough IN the van for a spare,I don't know why they couldn't just hide one in the rear quarter like a Suburban ?..