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Where is the fuel pump in a 91 k5?

The fuel pump is in the gas tank. You have to drop the tank and remove the sender, pump is attached to sender. When you are in there change your strainer at the same time.

78-K5 4"Lift 35"Tires 400SB TH350 NP205
73 Vega 350SB TH350
 
Is it a pain in the ass to do it yourself? Could you give me some directions? Thanks.
 
If the tank is full you will have a TON of fun. It will help if you have someone help lowering the tank.Use a brass punch to loosen the lock collar on the sender. Then pull the sender out. Depending how the pump attaches to sender, clampes if I remember. Then put it back together. Make sure you plug wire harness back together on pump and install. Not to bad just takes a hour or two to do.

i

78-K5 4"Lift 35"Tires 400SB TH350 NP205
73 Vega 350SB TH350
 
Don't forget to take the fill hose off before you drop the tank! Ask me how I know...duh :)

- Alan

'82 K10 Suburban Silverado (AKA U.S.S. Nimitz)

Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut.
 
Mentioned above is to use a brass drift to revove the collar. This is CORRECT. Do not use a metal one. It could spark and cause an explosion. The brass one is the was to go.

'83 GMC Jimmy 4x4 ZZ4 Crate Motor
'83 Chevy K20 Sand Drag Racer, 578 RWHP
'94 Impala SS
'01 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 w/8.1L & Allison Auto
 
And don't forget to reattach the ground wire when you put it all back together. Hee, hee I got all worked thinking I had screwed something up, but it ended up that I spaced out and forgot the darn ground wire.



John
 
Disconnect the ground wire, disconnect the 3 hoses that come off the top of the tank (get to them through the right rear wheelwell), disconnect the electrical connector going to the pump. Then, open the tailgate up, and there are 2 bolts (5/8 if I remember correctly?) right where the hinges are for the tailgate. These are the bolts that hold the straps up. Make sure you brace the tank in place before you start to loosten them.

When you brace the tank, put the braces inbetween the straps; so after you get the bolts out, you will be able to remove the straps with ease.

Oh, and if you have a rear skid plate, you will have to remove that before you try to lower the tank
tongue.gif


When I replaced the pump in my old '88 Jimmy, I cut an access panel in the rear floor while the tank was out. So if I ever needed to replace the pump, sending unit, or anything under there, I wouldn't have to drop the tank again. If you can, I would recommend this.
I ended up changing the pump in that Jimmy 3 times! and man was I glad I cut that access panel.

Thomas.

-- '84 K5 Blazer --
<a target="_blank" href=http://stoopalini.off-road.ws/blazer>My Blazer Site</a>
 
Ge I just changed mine at a camp ground in Moab in about 30 min....but then I do have a hole cut in the floor to get to the top of the tank to pull the sended out, every time I have ever sean an in tank pump thats bad, the first thing that was done to try and fix was to fill up the tank to the top. There are some old post on cutting the floor for easy pump replacement or sock replacement
 
Thomas

What size hole did you cut in the floor for access to the fuel pump?

Thanks

Brian
89KBlazer

Build it Right or Don't build it at all!!
 
I got a bed patch panel from Chevy Duty for 18.99 that about 2 feet by 3 and the cut a 12 X18 hole in the floor centered over the sender. I then cut the patch panel to 24X24 and just lay it over the hole sealing it with gray tape and let the carpet fall back over it.
 
I traced out a square aprox 18"x18" or so. Then I drilled 1/2" holes at each corner and used the sawzall to connect them and removed the panel.

Then, I took 4 - 1" x 2" x 1/8" pieces of steel, drilled 1/2" holes in them, tack welded a nut to them (lined up with the hole), and tack welded these pieces caddy corner at the four corners of the square hole.

Then, I put the panel into place and drilled 4 holes in it that lined up with the angle braces and used 4 bolts to hold it in place.

Thomas.

-- '84 K5 Blazer --
<a target="_blank" href=http://stoopalini.off-road.ws/blazer>My Blazer Site</a>
 
Thanks Thomas &amp; blazer72. Does that 18x18 leave plenty of room to maneuver the pump/sending unit out of the tank?
I've got the floor out &amp; plan to make a new subframe for the new floor. What I'll probably do is frame the opening for the gas tank hole in the floor with the subframe &amp; maybe put some blind nuts in the subframe so that I can just bolt the panel back in place tightly.

My floors will be coated in a spray-in bedliner on top &amp; bottom. Do you have any problems with water tightness? &amp; should the spray-in take care of that for me? If not, I could always put a thin gasket on the access cover

Thanks again

Brian
89KBlazer

Build it Right or Don't build it at all!!
 
The tape seals mine just fine and I have bedliner under tha carpet anyway. My cove in not even bolted down. As I said it was all of a 1/2 hour to replace the pump and some of that was loading and onloading stuf that was in the way.
 
After I bolted the access panel into place, I just layed the underlying rubber/foam mat down, and then the carpet over that. I never had a problem with water or exhaust coming into the truck.

The 18" x 18" hole was plenty of room. The sending unit assembly is not that large. You just have to have enough room to corner it out of the tank so the pump/filter assy can fit through.

Thomas

-- '84 K5 Blazer --
<a target="_blank" href=http://stoopalini.off-road.ws/blazer>My Blazer Site</a>
 
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