What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Where should I put my engine crossmember?

CyberSniper

CyberSniper

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Posts
3,034
Reaction score
739
Location
Chelsea, MI
Where should I put my engine crossmember? (updated)

I've been planning on moving the engine back about an inch. I'll probably move the cab back 3"... maybe as much as 4". Going 56" front springs and moving the axle as far forward as I can. The idea is to get as much weight as I can off that front axle...

The further you move the crossmember back the distance between the frame rails grows. You also run out of bolting-in room on the top of the frame.

Bare front (boy, it sure would be easy to go coils right about now...). The crossmember is being held in stock position with the crapsman screwdrivers.
bare1_S.jpg


Stock location for the passenger riveted crossmember (look at that wasted motor mount, mon):
crossmember1_S.jpg


After moving the crossmember rearward about an inch... the screwdriver marks about where the hole in the crossmember is (and it's real close to the edge of the frame)
crossmember6_S.jpg


See how it moved away from the frame as you push the crossmember rearward? Also notice that the hole in the frame that the crossmember sort-of lines up with is the hole for the brake hose.
crossmember3_S.jpg


Also, as you go rearward, the frame gets taller as you can see the gap. The shiny part there at the top is the edge of the hole in the crossmember.
crossmember4_S.jpg
 
Last edited:
why not move the motor back farther? i moved mine 4" which is making the rear hole the new front hole. tranny mounts move the same amount. just another idea.:confused:
 
Hey, who be pickin' on my duck hunting boots? At least you didn't call them boats like most people do. They're only size 15.

The further back the crossmember goes the more distance between the crossmember and the frame. Also, the futher back I go the less "meat" I have to bolt into on the top side of the frame. The further back I go with the cab the more nightmareish it gets to try to get the body brackets to line up with the body (the frame gets wider the futher back you go).

I'm really trying to avoid having to make an engine crossmember or body brackets because I don't really have the facilities to make them at my house.

Do you have any pictures of what you did?
 
So did you use a come-along or something to pull the frame together or something?

Did you have any weird problems?

I guess you're proof it can be done, eh?

top.jpg

side.jpg
 
My frame is probably tweaked a little then because all the bolt holes line up when you put the crossmember back to its original position.

I'll just use a chain binder or come-along to pull the rails together. Probably will help out the cab mount situation anyway.

I think I'm going to move the crossmember far enough back that the front hole on the top of the crossmember goes in the rear hole in the frame.
 
This is how i will be doing my caddy engine mounts. I got this pic from the owner of project freaks websight.

pERFECT PERFECT PERFECT CADDY ENGINE MOUNT.jpg
 
i didn't use anything. I had the engine hanging on the cherry picker to bolt in and found out the radiator didn't clear so I lifted it back up and moved everything by moving the tranny mount back one hole(rear frame hole is new front hole in crossmember, then just redrilled the motor mounts. i had the motor all bolted to the mounts so it may have moved the rails in but thats okay for this.
 
Well, I moved it

I moved it 2.5" rearward. I have to make some spacers to finish bolting it in but other than that it went smoothly. I still need to clean out the bath tub from washing the engine crossmember in it so I could paint it but...

Rear hole is now the front hole... 2.5"
top_S.jpg


rightfront_S.jpg


rightrear_S.jpg


The problem area. You can see that the frame slopes down on the bottom edge. I'll make a spacer out of some flat stock to fill the gap so I can bolt it down.
pmountrear_S.jpg


Where the rivets were I used 3/8" grade 8 stuff. Can't buy 7/16" grade 8 so it's either 3/8" grade 8, 1/2" grade 8, or 7/16" grade 5. 3/8" grade 8 is stronger than those rivets anyway.
pmountfront_S.jpg
 
It's rare, just like 9/16" grade 8. The local place here (Fastenal) should now carry it but last Fall they didn't. They sell them to you by the bolt and it ends up costing like $9/lb. Back home, TSC doesn't carry 7/16" grade 8. It's like $3.29/lb for grade 8 at TSC.

The rivets aren't 7/16" like everyone says they are. They're 13/32s which is right between 3/8" and 7/16". When you think about it, a double washered with locknut 3/8" grade 8 setup is going to be a lot stronger than a rivet.
 
I use 3/8 G8 and crimp lock nuts with hardened flat washers and split washers on the nut side. Haven't had any troubles out of it yet. Good luck on the project.
 
Good deal, at least I'm not the only one using 3/8".

Too bad I've got such a long ways to go. The only nice thing is that technically I'm starting the "building" now instead of just disassembly.
 
i wasnt trying to say 3/8 are bad, i actually have 3/8 grade 8 holding my engine crossmember on to.

i was just curious on why you couldnt get 7/16's, did you try napa? thats where i get mine
 
I won't go to the Napa up here unless I'm really desperate. They probably have 7/16" G8 though.

They've charged me a restocking fee for giving me the wrong part.

They've failed to warranty a lifetime tool because they no longer sold it even though I had the receipt from their place of business.

I wanted them to put an oil pump pickup in their "machine shop" the right way (most shops have a jig that costs $85 to do it) and the clown grabbed a hammer and I snagged my oil pump and pickup before he swung it.

I watched them put carrier bearings on with the outer races once. It seems they still do this because a guy I know watched the "machinist" do this. Seems he also only pushed it far enough that the bearing's inner race was flush with the end of the carrier instead of against the body of the carrier and was certain this was the right way to do it.

I watched them put wrist pins in with a hammer.

I listened to them tell somebody that the proper way to seat lugs is to use a lugnut.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom