CK5
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Where should I start??????
- Thread starter Scrw72kc
- Start date
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Welcome! I guess the question is what are your plans for it, how much cash do you want to spend, and what your skills are? They make most of the body panels as reproductions now, but it takes a bit of skill and a lot of effort to replace them.
wasted wages
1 ton status
I would start by cutting out all of the major rust parts, then re-assess what you have left, then decide if it would be easier to replace major components, or buy patch panels.
pretty much everything can be replaced, but it's very time consuming, and sometimes you have to bite the bullet and find another donor or entire vehicle if you really want the end project to ever see the road again..
pretty much everything can be replaced, but it's very time consuming, and sometimes you have to bite the bullet and find another donor or entire vehicle if you really want the end project to ever see the road again..
Thanks! I have enough faith in my skill to replace the panels and such. I just don’t know where I should start. The money isn’t an issue. I was planning on replacing the floor pan in its entirety and both bedsides. What I am worried about most is the area between the floor pan and cargo area step up is rotted to where I have little reference. The replacement bedsides would clear up a lot of that correct? By giving me a solid reference?
Should I go section by section or do it all at once? I have read about alignment issues and such. I was planning on buying around 6 grand in replacement parts.
wasted wages
1 ton status
As long as you don't have to cut into the body supports, removing the floor pans and rockers, front fenders etc should not be a problem. But if you have to start cutting into cab supports, door frames, A pillers then yes, I would cross brace the cab first.
Again...these are main cab components and I usually either try to fix the existing ones or just call it.
I hate body work, but I'm equipped to handle all of it, plasma cutter, wire welder, torches, tools, etc. I'm just past doing that in-depth work again. Those projects just never seem to get done...
Again...these are main cab components and I usually either try to fix the existing ones or just call it.
I hate body work, but I'm equipped to handle all of it, plasma cutter, wire welder, torches, tools, etc. I'm just past doing that in-depth work again. Those projects just never seem to get done...
LOL!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
You’ll also need a welder with MIG gas. I wish someone had told me to get the gas setup when I first started. Weld quality is way nicer for a noob like I was (and still am) and is easier for sheetmetal work than the flux core.
One more thing to check is the top of the windshield frame where it bolts to the top. Those can be a mess and tricky to repair, but I remember someone made a replacement piece for part of it.
If you want a total semi-informed opinion, I’d separate the body from the frame as-is. Leave the top on. Get the frame blasted and coated, brake lines and that stuff sorted out. Install new body mounts and then drop the body back on to work on it after it’s been blasted. Then everything’s at least clean while you do the work.
Very good points! I have yet to take the top off, so I am worried about that. I live in St. Louis. Does anyone live near that knows of a shop that would assist with media blasting? I have been calling around to see if any of the shops around here would do the floor pans (complete), but no one seems like they want to even deal with it. I am really glad I signed up for this page because I have learned a lot so far. Hopefully it is enough to keep me motivated and informed.
rampage
3/4 ton status
Here’s one place that has the windshield header, I’m sure there are others:
https://www.motorcityk5.com/i-13129-windshield-header-bow-set-69-72-blazer.html?ref=category:9892
You can now buy replacement parts for:
That is basically the entire truck. It might almost feel like you should just drill out the 4 rosette rivets around your VIN tag and transfer it over to 100% new sheetmetal, because once you start "peeling the onion" and investing time into the repairs, you aren't going to want to leave obvious rust behind.
Best advice I can give is to transition away from the idea of doing "small" rust patch repairs on bad panels. You can do it for practice if you'd like, but ultimately you are usually better off replacing a large section of metal vs. trying to cobble 2 or 3 patches into the original one..... I've got almost no original sheetmetal left, and mine appears to have been in much better shape that the one you are starting with. FWIW.
Good Luck!
-G
- Front Blazer floor (the real version, not the truck only version)
- Rear Bedfloor
- Blazer rear bedsides
- Torsion boxes
- Inner & Outer rockers (though I still prefer the truck-version part for this)
- Blazer doors
- Front cowl parts
- Front firewall
- Windshield frame / header parts
- Front fenders.
That is basically the entire truck. It might almost feel like you should just drill out the 4 rosette rivets around your VIN tag and transfer it over to 100% new sheetmetal, because once you start "peeling the onion" and investing time into the repairs, you aren't going to want to leave obvious rust behind.
Best advice I can give is to transition away from the idea of doing "small" rust patch repairs on bad panels. You can do it for practice if you'd like, but ultimately you are usually better off replacing a large section of metal vs. trying to cobble 2 or 3 patches into the original one..... I've got almost no original sheetmetal left, and mine appears to have been in much better shape that the one you are starting with. FWIW.
Good Luck!
-G
Take your time and research before dropping $6000 on sheet metal. Not all sources are equally good quality. (HINT: LMC should never be on your shopping list for these items)
-G
If you are confident about getting them lined up without many other reference points to work with, sure.
I suspect the factory welded the torsion boxes to the floor and then built up from there (firewall, A-pillars, bedsides, etc) until the entire tub was complete.
-G
I don't have any actual experience working on the '72 K5 body replacing panels, but my son and I have done some work on his '72 truck. We have found that there are some problems with the replacement panels that require some time and patience to overcome. His main problems have been the rockers, including the support piece at the rear of the door frame.
The outer rockers haven't had the correct bends to mate to the cab above the lower front fender mounting area, OR the correct step/ bends for the lower front corner of the door to let it open without interference.
He just got another set of rockers from GMCPaul's, and they don't match either. We are comparing to my my trucks which have factory parts, which shows us what to look for down the road.
The point of this is that you have to be ready for some challenges, but keep your mind in it, and it should come out good in the end.
Good point. Even the BEST reproduction sheetmetal won’t fit perfectly so don’t be surprised when it requires cutting and reworking to get the gaps and body lines looking right.
-G
urbex
1/2 ton status
I'm a bit spoiled living in the Arizona desert, but there's no way I would even begin working on a tub that rotted out unless I was planning on a fully tubed crawler around it, and I got the thing damn near free.
Even if you have to go out of state to get another body, I think you'd be time and money ahead to start with a cleaner body.
Even if you have to go out of state to get another body, I think you'd be time and money ahead to start with a cleaner body.
