andhar
1/2 ton status
I ordered a set of tow hooks , now my question is where is the BEST place to put them and should i use both in the front and one on the rear or what.
thanks
thanks
CK5
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Where to put hooks
- Thread starter andhar
- Start date
What kind of hooks? There is no easy place on a stock K5 for the standard hooks from the 4x4 shop. For the front, go to a junk yard and get some of the super-stout factory ones that bolt up to the frame. I don't know what to say about the rears, I think some guys put the factory front ones somehow, but it's not a ready-made fit. Most guys end up with aftermarket rear bumpers, then you can do whatever you want - IMO the best is D-rings for clevis hooks.
85mudblazin
1/2 ton status
for the front you can bolt them to the bottom of each frame rail, ffor the back there really isnt a good place for one, the best thing to do is get one of those reciever hitch d-ring shackles if you have a reciever hitch. The bad thing about the hooks is that the strap or whatever can come off if you are at a angle or if there is slack in the rope.my .02
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tree_entz
1/2 ton status
[ QUOTE ]
For the front, go to a junk yard and get some of the super-stout factory ones that bolt up to the frame. I don't k.
[/ QUOTE ]
I would be careful about those hooks man. I tore two right out of the frame (one tug on one, 3 tugs on the other) and my cherry chrome bumper I got for $35 in the process.
It looked like a big friggin chrome V comming out from my truck. I need to get the pics from this dude to prove it! /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
I would reccomend having some one reinforce the frame where those bolts go through. (they're aweful close to the end of the frame) If you know someone who could weld like
washers around the holes it might work better. In all honesty though, my frame was pretty weak there (I think one hole was already torn, but the other side had two good holes [uhuhuhuhhhuh])
bumper and d-rings are the way man, tie into the frame.
For the front, go to a junk yard and get some of the super-stout factory ones that bolt up to the frame. I don't k.
[/ QUOTE ]
I would be careful about those hooks man. I tore two right out of the frame (one tug on one, 3 tugs on the other) and my cherry chrome bumper I got for $35 in the process.
It looked like a big friggin chrome V comming out from my truck. I need to get the pics from this dude to prove it! /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
I would reccomend having some one reinforce the frame where those bolts go through. (they're aweful close to the end of the frame) If you know someone who could weld like
washers around the holes it might work better. In all honesty though, my frame was pretty weak there (I think one hole was already torn, but the other side had two good holes [uhuhuhuhhhuh])
bumper and d-rings are the way man, tie into the frame.
andhar
1/2 ton status
these are the hooks I bought.. thanks for the suggestions.
az-k5
1/2 ton status
If you go with the frame horn route, I would reccomend reinforcing the area as well. It as simple as taking a piece of 1.5" wide (or wider) 3/16" thick (or thicker) plate. Cut about a 4" long piece (or longer if it can fit) and drill it to match where the bolts go through the frame. This will allow the load on the frame to be distributed over a larger area.
Kinda like this with bolts through all three pieces
________ plate
------------------- frame
J....... hook
[edit] I have ran D-rings for the last 4 years (had the truck for 5 years). Before I hardly wheeled it (bone stock w/ worn 31" BFG AT) but had the impressive "J" hooks up front just in case and a reciever in the rear. I don't like the quick hooks picutred above myself, but a lot of people use them. So I think I have advised acordingly. Better safer than just deadly. [edit]
I also like the newer (1992-98) GM offroad front hooks. Not as big as the 70's style but a real forged hook none the less.
Kinda like this with bolts through all three pieces
________ plate
------------------- frame
J....... hook
[edit] I have ran D-rings for the last 4 years (had the truck for 5 years). Before I hardly wheeled it (bone stock w/ worn 31" BFG AT) but had the impressive "J" hooks up front just in case and a reciever in the rear. I don't like the quick hooks picutred above myself, but a lot of people use them. So I think I have advised acordingly. Better safer than just deadly. [edit]
I also like the newer (1992-98) GM offroad front hooks. Not as big as the 70's style but a real forged hook none the less.
84_Chevy_K10
Banned
I don't know what the hell anyone would want tow hooks for.
I have shackle mounts front and rear. Before that, i'd use my reciever hitch, frame, or leaf springs.
Only time I've ever yanked on someone's tow hook it was K5DRAGER and it's all bent up (I damn near broke it) to this day. Hooks are not safe, and far from ideal for towing in my opinion, and downright scary at times.
I've had nothing but good luck with my 3' length of grade 70 chain that I've used to hook to whatever happens to be sticking out of the ground at any given time that is sturdy, which means frame, leaf springs, reciever hitch, etc.
I have shackle mounts front and rear. Before that, i'd use my reciever hitch, frame, or leaf springs.
Only time I've ever yanked on someone's tow hook it was K5DRAGER and it's all bent up (I damn near broke it) to this day. Hooks are not safe, and far from ideal for towing in my opinion, and downright scary at times.
I've had nothing but good luck with my 3' length of grade 70 chain that I've used to hook to whatever happens to be sticking out of the ground at any given time that is sturdy, which means frame, leaf springs, reciever hitch, etc.
GMCLegacy
1/2 ton status
i agree with tim
tow hooks, especially the ones you showed in the pic are not safe in this application.
most of those chinese cast hooks are good for 10,000 pounds. you may think that is a high enough rating, but you will find out that they arent, and hopefully you live to tell the story.
if you really want hooks, the only ones i could see using for ocasional use are ones off 73-80, also know as the J-hook style.
to answer your question...."where to put hooks"
put them back in the box and set them on a dusty shelf in the garage.
tow hooks, especially the ones you showed in the pic are not safe in this application.
most of those chinese cast hooks are good for 10,000 pounds. you may think that is a high enough rating, but you will find out that they arent, and hopefully you live to tell the story.
if you really want hooks, the only ones i could see using for ocasional use are ones off 73-80, also know as the J-hook style.
to answer your question...."where to put hooks"
put them back in the box and set them on a dusty shelf in the garage.
[ QUOTE ]
these are the hooks I bought.. thanks for the suggestions.
[/ QUOTE ]
Those are mooring posts for a boat, not tow hooks for recovering a vehicle. Those are cast hooks that break before they bend. The holes are too close together as well. They don't give you a backing plate either.
For the front... use factory towhooks for whatever generation vehicle you've got. The 81-87 S-style hooks are known to shear a bolt or tear the frame on the lower hole. It then pivots on the upper hole, destroying your front bumper. I don't have any problems with mine but I replaced my bolts with new Grade 8 bolts a couple years ago and torqued them down to around 160 ftlbs. Usually it's loose bolts that cause the frame to tear.
For the rear... use a frame-mounted receiver. Preferably one that is pretty long and hooks into the frame in front of the rear spring hanger.
Otherwise, pick up some 88-98 factory towhooks from the dealership. They probably won't cost much more than what you paid for the mooring posts above. Then bolt them to the frame like this.
these are the hooks I bought.. thanks for the suggestions.
[/ QUOTE ]
Those are mooring posts for a boat, not tow hooks for recovering a vehicle. Those are cast hooks that break before they bend. The holes are too close together as well. They don't give you a backing plate either.
For the front... use factory towhooks for whatever generation vehicle you've got. The 81-87 S-style hooks are known to shear a bolt or tear the frame on the lower hole. It then pivots on the upper hole, destroying your front bumper. I don't have any problems with mine but I replaced my bolts with new Grade 8 bolts a couple years ago and torqued them down to around 160 ftlbs. Usually it's loose bolts that cause the frame to tear.
For the rear... use a frame-mounted receiver. Preferably one that is pretty long and hooks into the frame in front of the rear spring hanger.
Otherwise, pick up some 88-98 factory towhooks from the dealership. They probably won't cost much more than what you paid for the mooring posts above. Then bolt them to the frame like this.
andhar
1/2 ton status
thanks for the advice yall.
If you must run hooks, go to the boneyard and get the J-hooks from a 73-80. They are huge compared to what you got (Over 3/4" thick) and if you pull it yourself you should be able to snag the massive hardware to attach it with. If you find one with the bumper on though, you will need to remove the upper bumper bracket bolt on the frame (one per side) so you can get a wrench or a socket on the upper hook mounting bolt. Also Bring a can of liquid wrench or WD-40 with you because the bolts will be kinda crusty.
I got mine for 5 bucks and they have already saved my butt a few times in getting stuck. I personally don't like hooking chains or straps to my leaf springs up front. I'd rather have the stout factory hooks until I build a bumper with D-rings.
I got mine for 5 bucks and they have already saved my butt a few times in getting stuck. I personally don't like hooking chains or straps to my leaf springs up front. I'd rather have the stout factory hooks until I build a bumper with D-rings.
