nope
if the coolant is leaving the reservoir at that rate, it's a pretty safe bet that it's not going into the engine. your cooling system should be pressurized to about 17 pounds per square inch, and that's on top of the fifteen psi that's normal sea level air pressure. while the engine's warming up and running, the flow of coolant should be from the radiator into the reservoir, not the other way around.
It occurs to me that you might not be checking the reservoir until after the engine's off and cooling down. In which case the flow should be from the reservoir into the radiator. That would be a valid indicator that you're losing coolant in the cooling system itself (as opposed to the reservoir, the overflow tube or the return tube).
What you really need to do is to (1) do a compression check on the engine. If two adjacent cylinders show approximately equal readings and they're both more than about 10% lower in compression than any of the others, that's a head gasket; (2) do the compression check again, but this time, and stick about a tablespoon of 80-90 weight gear oil (or whatever the heaviest engine oil is that you've got on hand) into each of the spark plug holes, let it settle for a few minutes, then spin the engine briefly to distribute the oil evenly around the piston rings, and check your compression readings - if they show much higher pressure from what you got the first time, you've got bad piston rings; and (3) do a pressure check on the cooling system - here's how to rig up a cheap pressure tester: get a new radiator cap or at least one with a known good gasket, and no lever release action, and drill a hole through the center of it - pop in a rubber tire valve (make sure the hole and the valve match in diameter, the valves come in several sizes, so make sure you get the drill right), put the cap back on the radiator and pressurize it with an air pump - it should take up to about 18-20 psi; check the pressure right away with a tire guage; wait about 20 minutes and check it again, and if you want to be really sure, wait another 20 minutes and check it a third time - if the pressure drops significantly (i.e., to less than about 15 psi) between the first and second checks and there's little or no pressure the third time, then your pressure cap is faulty or there's an internal crack in the water jacket in the block or cylinder head.
If you can't figure it out, or it appears there's serious problems, take it to an honest mechanic to have your procedure double-checked (mechanics are like cars, some of 'em are really good, some of 'em are really bad, and most of 'em are average - you need a good one for real problem diagnosis).
