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which cam to choose...

reddog64

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I know this has been covered but...
I've got a small block 350.. performer intake... 650 carb... and I need a good off-road cam... aka-good low rpm torque...

PLease advise...
I'm not partial to any specific brands so... suggest away!!!
 
Check out my FTP SITE (copy and paste: ftp://[email protected]), and download engine analyzer. Then you can plug in your combo, and play with all different cam specs. Let us know what you find! I would start with CompCams. My new BBC cam PN 11-206-3 is going to make huge power for me. I can't wait to start her up again...! Let me know if you need any help with the software.

Good luck!

<font color=red>GOT MUD???</font color=red>
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454/TH400/NP205 - 14BFF/D60/w/ 4.10s
 
Summit has a good house brand cam that is fairly cheap that is a dual pattern design. I woul personally go with the 214-224 degrees duration at .050 valve lift with .442-.465 valve lift. I have had very good service out of this cam. Just my $.02.

'85 K5 : Run it til it breaks, then fix it and go again!
 
I plugged in all my numbers for curiousity...9 to 1 350, with the 260H cam from comp cams. 292 lb/ft of torque by 2000 rpm and peak torque was 376 @ 4000 HP peaked at 313 @ 4500.

Rene


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Cool deal! It shows that I'm making 450hp and 423 torque! I didn't expect that much.....


Rust=Good
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You have to take the numbers that the software gives you with a grain of salt. I have seen cases where the actual dyno numbers were close to the same as the software, and I have seen many more cases where the dyno numbers were far lower than what the software claimed. I am a software engineer by trade, and I don't think anyone will ever be able to factor all of the variables into a "desktop dyno". Just my $.02.

'85 K5 : Run it til it breaks, then fix it and go again!
 
The Summit in house cam is probably pretty good, but taking advantage of the new technology offered by other companies can net a whole lot of gain in HP. It's impossible to try everything close to what will work, but if you think about all your other engine/vehicle specs, it's a little easier to make a more educated decision.

I chose the Comp Xtreme 4x4 250/258 grind, 206/214 duration @ .050", .432/.453 lift, 111 LSA. It is installed in a 305 with a few other goodies and DD 2000 puts it at 247 HP @ 4500 and 330 ft-lbs @ 3000. That's with a 500 cfm Edelbrock carb, too.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
Don't get me wrong Mr.Chevy4x4, but the software will give you a fairly good impression of how a cam would react to your engine combination. The final numbers may not be 100%, but you can see how the curves change when different cam specs are inserted....

<font color=red>GOT MUD???</font color=red>
My license plate reads:
<font color=blue>8 YRSUV</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://24.10.209.54/bigolk5.htm>http://24.10.209.54/bigolk5.htm</a>
454/TH400/NP205 - 14BFF/D60/w/ 4.10s
 
I agree with you to a point. My point was that there are many other factors that effect power production that the software packages that I have seen don't take into account. For example: port and combustion chamber design can have a huge impact on horsepower. I have seen 40 horsepower increase just changing from TBI heads to Vortec heads with no other changes. What I don't like seeing are these guys that boast 450 H.P. from their 350. I know it can be done, but not without considerable cost and modifications. Making this much power with a 350 moves the power band way up the RMP range which is not the hot ticket for most 4x4's. Just from knowledge and experience I can usually come closer to the actual numbers from a dyno session that the desktop dyno produces. I have seen too many kids overcam a motor because the desktop dyno said they would make more H.P.

'85 K5 : Run it til it breaks, then fix it and go again!
 
Using the software was what convinced me that a smaller cam is the hot ticket sometimes. KRAZIE87K5 has a 454 that was not living up to expectations...we used the software to input his current numbers to obtain a 'cyber' baseline and then changed nothing but the bumpstick and did some camparisons. My original thoughts as to what would be a good cam were close...but going even a step milder resulted in a flatter torque curve and better numbers down low where they help the most.
I think a lot of motors get 'overcammed' by lack of research and basing the decision on what the cam catalog says about idle quality. The software may not be as accurate as a real dyno but it can make good comparisons of certain components.

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
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