CK5
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Which carb do I have?
- Thread starter GoGoGirl
- Start date
yep carb is dirty and needs cleaning to see the stamped in #'s to let you get the correct kit for rebuild .
Definitely get the numbers to get the right kit.
Also, if you are doing it yourself, take your time. Take pics of where things go as you disassemble. Write down all of your screw settings, etc so you have a base point to start from. Lots of parts, but can be done with patience. Good luck.
Also, if you are doing it yourself, take your time. Take pics of where things go as you disassemble. Write down all of your screw settings, etc so you have a base point to start from. Lots of parts, but can be done with patience. Good luck.
and make sure to know how to remove the top cover or you will bend the needles .
You take the secondary metering rods out first then take the top off,if I remember right..only been like 20 years since I rebuilt a Q-jet!..
and drive out the roll pin for the pump arm also . been years since i did one .
Ran a couple of them, on a couple different trucks. I loved them when they worked. Best of both worlds for power and economy. But the last time I messed with one was to remove it and replace with an edelbrock. Much simpler. Like Ron Popeil used to say...."just set it and forget it".
Thanks for the replies.
I will be doing this alongside an experienced old mechanic dude so I can learn. Just need to figure out what rebuild kit to order so guess I need to clean off the carb first and look for the markings. I'll let y'all know what I find.
I will be doing this alongside an experienced old mechanic dude so I can learn. Just need to figure out what rebuild kit to order so guess I need to clean off the carb first and look for the markings. I'll let y'all know what I find.
The carb # is usually stamped here...it'll be a number beginning with a 7 or 17 depending on the year.. 
Plenty of videos online.
Ok so I climbed up into the engine compartment and looked at the spot shown above. I can see there are numbers there but it looks like there aren’t that many or they are almost worn off. I cleaned it with a rag and a tiny bit of soapy water. Even viewing from six inches away with a bright LED flashlight, I can barely make out just a few numbers. Is there a chance they are worn off? Or is there a product I could use to make them more visible? Is it actually dirty and in need of a solvent to clean? To me it looks like I have it down to bare metal and the numbers are just so vague. Ideas?
If you have it good and clean with brake clean, or similar, youcan try paint. Use a contrastin paint like white on a dark surface, etc. House paint or model paint, something of that nature. Smear some on the area, let it sit a bit, then rub of with a rag or finger. Hopefully, paint should come off the surface and leave some in the grooves of the numbers, making it more legible.
At the parts store we used "white-out" to help get the numbers to show up better,because we happened to have some hanging around..paint or a magic marker works too.. --clean the area off with carb cleaner or brake cleaner,or thinner,them smear some white-out over the numbers,then wipe gently with a rag soaked with cleaner and try not to wash off the white that went in the numbers,just the surrounding area..
We often had to ID carbs and engine codes this way to get the customer the right parts...seems many chevy's never had their original engines,since so many years would fit and work..once I found a 1955 265 V8 was in a 70's GMC,after I got the engine code off it--and the guy wanted to kill me after the "right" parts listed for his truck were not what it had!..
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Some carbs had the numbers in a different location in a "circle" that was cast into the carb body,but usually those were on earlier ones from the late 60's and 70's..but you never know,I've seen exceptions to every "rule" when it comes to carbs and some other parts before..
Carter also made Q-jets for GM when Rochester went on strike too,those had different numbers in a different location..doubt yours is one of those though--it'll say "made by Carter" right on it if it was,but I think the strike was in the '70's..
Some carbs had a tag on one of the float bowl screws with the ID number,those usually vanished the first time someone tried rebuilding one though...
We often had to ID carbs and engine codes this way to get the customer the right parts...seems many chevy's never had their original engines,since so many years would fit and work..once I found a 1955 265 V8 was in a 70's GMC,after I got the engine code off it--and the guy wanted to kill me after the "right" parts listed for his truck were not what it had!..
..Some carbs had the numbers in a different location in a "circle" that was cast into the carb body,but usually those were on earlier ones from the late 60's and 70's..but you never know,I've seen exceptions to every "rule" when it comes to carbs and some other parts before..
Carter also made Q-jets for GM when Rochester went on strike too,those had different numbers in a different location..doubt yours is one of those though--it'll say "made by Carter" right on it if it was,but I think the strike was in the '70's..
Some carbs had a tag on one of the float bowl screws with the ID number,those usually vanished the first time someone tried rebuilding one though...
While they can be a real pain to read the numbers, I have found that the kits usually have gaskets to cover quite a few variations when you get the correct part number range.
And the other posts are spot on about how to read the numbers.
And the other posts are spot on about how to read the numbers.
it is a quadra jet 4ME, the kits will have the gaskets you need, the spec sheet might not have your carb settings. also buy a float. you will probably need a small amount of 2 part epoxy, if well plugs are leaking. the newer carb dip doesn't work that well, and the q jet bowl, throttle plate assem, don't fit well in a gallon dip can. I use plenty of spay cleaners and compressed air these days.
Your mentor may have his own method, and be able to help the specs.
Your mentor may have his own method, and be able to help the specs.
By dip you mean the solvent that is supposed to melt everything off and give you a shiny new aluminum casting?
Yeah epa made them crap.
I had a 5 gallon bucket of the old stuff bout in 2002 but when it sat in the shed for a few years when I was not using it the container rusted out and the fluid evaporated
same thing happened to my "good stuff"
off the shelf there around the same for all of them .
