Which engine oil and break-in (lots of questions)

[Mikey von]

I am curious as to which oil I should be using for my new engine. I will be running an Amsoil bypass filter and stock oil cooler (for now).

I heard for break-in I should use dino oil and not a synthetic. Is this true?

What weight?

Brand?

How often should I change the oil during break-in?

How many miles before switching to synthetic?

After break-in, should I run Amsoil or Rotella?

Which weight?

Are synthetics worth it?

 

[longbedder]

Holy can of worms! Expect a lot of varying opinions on this one...

My take as follows:

15W-40 dino oil for break-in, change it every 1000 miles until 5000. Synthetics lubricate too well in this stage - you want some metal wear to occur as parts form to eachother. Switch to 15W-40 diesel-rated synthetic post-break-in (8-10k miles for a diesel) if you're so inclined - I do prefer them personally because they don't break down as fast as dino. Brands are up for much discussion and argument - there's various quality stuff out there.

With a bypass filter you won't need oil changes real often after break-in, so synthetic would make a lot of sense.

I'd only use 5W-40 if you're routinely below 0* Fahrenheit.

As far as engine-running procedure, here's a good article that I agree with: http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?Breaking in a Diesel Engine

 

[4by4bygod]

I am curious as to which oil I should be using for my new engine. I will be running an Amsoil bypass filter and stock oil cooler (for now).

I heard for break-in I should use dino oil and not a synthetic. Is this true?

A cheaper conventional is fine - you'll be dumping it right away anyhow, because you'll have the cam assembly goop in there.


What weight?

!5/40 is good all around.

Brand?

Doesn't matter - they're all CJ - 4 now, with the same amount of anti wear additives.

How often should I change the oil during break-in?

Just once, after it's broke in.

How many miles before switching to synthetic?

Don't bother - you'll be lucky to find a true synthetic out there anyway. Any oil can be called "synthetic", and they're all made of processed petroleum hydrocarbons, whether you call them synthetic or dino.

After break-in, should I run Amsoil or Rotella?

Doesn't matter, they're all CJ - 4 now, with the same amount of anti wear additives.

Which weight?

Depends on the purpose..you can stay with 15/40 and be fine. ..I've seen some guys use a 5 / 40 diesel oil - they were after better start up performance..the 5/ 40 will get to where it needs to just a bit quicker when it fires 'cause it's thinner.

Are synthetics worth it?

You first have to be sure you are getting a true synthetic..good luck with that..synthetic is a marketing term these days, and not an indicator of a higher performing oil. google 'castrol lawsuit", and you'll see.

All diesel oils are made the way the EPA says they have to be, with a finite amount of anti wear additives ( zinc, phosphorus, etc ), so you don't gain anything by say choosing amsoil over rotella.

The TBN numbers for new CJ - 4 oils are all lower than they used to be, and that number indicates how well the oil resists acid build up over time.


The bottom line is, don't rely on labels and marketing..stay within the manufacturers change intervals, and you'll be fine.

 

[Mikey von]

OK, I will run either Delo or Rotella. I know you know what you are talking. Thanks for the straight up answer.

How do you feel about by-pass oil filters, extend engine life or OCI? Worth it?

 

[NEK5]

I'm running Valvoline VR1 racing oil in my truck (breaking in the engine too). I think I may continue running it, too..

 

[kennyw]

I'm running Valvoline VR1 racing oil in my truck (breaking in the engine too). I think I may continue running it, too..

You do realize that oil used in gas motors is not the same as oil used in diesel motors right?

 

[4by4bygod]

OK, I will run either Delo or Rotella. I know you know what you are talking. Thanks for the straight up answer.

How do you feel about by-pass oil filters, extend engine life or OCI? Worth it?

that's why I'm here - happy to help.

By pass filters are fine for what they do.. any added filtration is a good thing. I would invest in oil analysis, if you are going to exceed the OCI as specified by the manufacturer.

Wear metals are one thing, and the bypass deals will handle those, but you also have to watch issues caused by heat - acid build up ( TBN number), soot build up, ( which may not be trapped by the by pass and will actually score the working surfaces ), and you have to watch for the oil shearing out of grade ( IE: thickening / thinning ) due to heat during the combustion process.

Wear control is only part of the equation - the effects of heat on the oil also have to be monitored and dealt with, because no oil is immune from the effects of heat.

Also, if you get involved in running a biodiesel blend, remember that's an alcohol based fuel..your biofuels thin out your oil, and act like a magnet for the zinc and phosphorus, thus limiting the oils ability to protect. oil analysis helps monitor that as well.

ethanol does the same thing, in case you wondered..

Places like Staveley labs, and titan labs can send you kits for 20 bucks a bottle, where you drain off a bit and send it in.. you'll get all the numbers back, and a recommendation as to when you can safely change the oil.

 

[NEK5]

You do realize that oil used in gas motors is not the same as oil used in diesel motors right?

I didn't even see the part the mentioned it was a diesel motor

FWIW, I'm running a gas engine

 

[kennyw]

Ben, this post is in the diesel forum...

 

[NEK5]

Ben, this post is in the diesel forum...

I can't even say I was drunk and never noticed!

That's what I get for browsing using 'new posts' rather than individual forums

 

[Mikey von]

that's why I'm here - happy to help.

By pass filters are fine for what they do.. any added filtration is a good thing. I would invest in oil analysis, if you are going to exceed the OCI as specified by the manufacturer.

Wear metals are one thing, and the bypass deals will handle those, but you also have to watch issues caused by heat - acid build up ( TBN number), soot build up, ( which may not be trapped by the by pass and will actually score the working surfaces ), and you have to watch for the oil shearing out of grade ( IE: thickening / thinning ) due to heat during the combustion process.

Wear control is only part of the equation - the effects of heat on the oil also have to be monitored and dealt with, because no oil is immune from the effects of heat.

Also, if you get involved in running a biodiesel blend, remember that's an alcohol based fuel..your biofuels thin out your oil, and act like a magnet for the zinc and phosphorus, thus limiting the oils ability to protect. oil analysis helps monitor that as well.

ethanol does the same thing, in case you wondered..

Places like Staveley labs, and titan labs can send you kits for 20 bucks a bottle, where you drain off a bit and send it in.. you'll get all the numbers back, and a recommendation as to when you can safely change the oil.

Awesome, I am planning on running a bypass with oil analysis. No biodiesel for me, just straight up dino juice.

 

[4by4bygod]

Awesome, I am planning on running a bypass with oil analysis. No biodiesel for me, just straight up dino juice.

cool beans..but you may not have a choice on biodiesel..many states have mandated 10% blends in all on road fuel..

check this out..

One of my former school bus accounts ( their chief mechanic) told me last year about something HIS fuel supplier told HIM - since biodiesel degrades so quick, it's common for suppliers to just dump it into fuel loads ( either on or off road), just to get rid of it.. they can do this up to a five percent blend, and are not legally obligated to tell the customer that they're having a biofuel blend delivered.

This might not happen everywhere, but the point is, oil analysis keeps your guard up..

 

[Mikey von]

Now this may be a stupid question, but better to know than not.

Do I run the bypass during break-in? I would think so, but see above.

 

[4by4bygod]

Now this may be a stupid question, but better to know than not.

Do I run the bypass during break-in? I would think so, but see above.

Sure, it won't hurt anything.

depending on how many microns it filters down to, it should help control the soot build up, especially if that engine has EGR on it.

EGR is another oil life expectancy reduction device - forgot to mention that one before.

here's an article I looked up:

http://www1.eere.energy.gov/vehiclesandfuels/avta/heavy_duty/oil_bypass/index.html

This one statement should make you feel better about using one during break in:

"The bypass filters do not negatively affect the engine's oil flow or pressure"

I'd bolt that sucker on there, and party like it's 1999.

 

[Huffed Blazer]

Holy can of worms! Expect a lot of varying opinions on this one...

My take as follows:

15W-40 dino oil for break-in, change it every 1000 miles until 5000. Synthetics lubricate too well in this stage - you want some metal wear to occur as parts form to eachother. Switch to 15W-40 diesel-rated synthetic post-break-in (8-10k miles for a diesel) if you're so inclined - I do prefer them personally because they don't break down as fast as dino. Brands are up for much discussion and argument - there's various quality stuff out there.

With a bypass filter you won't need oil changes real often after break-in, so synthetic would make a lot of sense.

I'd only use 5W-40 if you're routinely below 0* Fahrenheit.

As far as engine-running procedure, here's a good article that I agree with: http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?Breaking in a Diesel Engine

Ditto with what Longbedder said, except;
After a 20 min cam break-in, drop the oil/filter.
Then after 300 miles, drop the oil/filter.
Same after 1000 miles, then every 3000 miles until the 10-12000 mile mark
I never changed the oil on a new engine every 1000 miles until 5000, but each to their own.