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Which frame? Help me decide - tell me why

big94gmc

big94gmc

1/2 ton status
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I rolled my '73 Chevy a couple weeks ago. Bad. Twisted the frame, bent the 14b, split the 465 bellhousing into two pieces, etc etc etc. I need to rebuild.

I'm weighing the options of using a CUCV frame that I found (just the frame) to swap everything over onto, or using a mid-90's S10 frame (I was going to body swap an S10 body onto the '73 frame anyway, but since I need a new frame now, the question arises).

So, tell me what you folks know about strength, rigidity, weight, and anything else that pertains so that I can make a decision on this matter: swap fullsize frame to fullsize frame and put an S10 body on it, or use an S10 frame and put in 350/465/203/205 and D60/14b onto the S10. This cannot be complex, or time consuming. I am making a decision based on which route is easiest. I also would like to know based on ya'lls experiences which is better/which is easier - even though they may not be the same, I'm aware.

Thanks for your help. Your guidance will help me decide what parts I start gatherin' up.
 
big94gmc said:
I rolled my '73 Chevy a couple weeks ago. Bad. Twisted the frame, bent the 14b, split the 465 bellhousing into two pieces, etc etc etc. I need to rebuild.

I'm weighing the options of using a CUCV frame that I found (just the frame) to swap everything over onto, or using a mid-90's S10 frame (I was going to body swap an S10 body onto the '73 frame anyway, but since I need a new frame now, the question arises).

So, tell me what you folks know about strength, rigidity, weight, and anything else that pertains so that I can make a decision on this matter: swap fullsize frame to fullsize frame and put an S10 body on it, or use an S10 frame and put in 350/465/203/205 and D60/14b onto the S10. This cannot be complex, or time consuming. I am making a decision based on which route is easiest. I also would like to know based on ya'lls experiences which is better/which is easier - even though they may not be the same, I'm aware.

Thanks for your help. Your guidance will help me decide what parts I start gatherin' up.
Click to expand...


Ouch. Anything that can hose a 14BFF is bad -- you presumably survived?

If it were me, I'd use the fullsize frame. I assume it's wider and thicker, and at the least, the suspension will bolt onto it without cutting and re-welding spring perches and shock mounts, etc. (Well, except maybe the 1-ton-vs-3/4-ton rear spacing issue.) The drivetrain will also obviously go straight across, so all you gotta fab are body mounts to put the S10 body on.

I know you can get motor mounts to put a 350 into an S10, but you'd still need to fab new crossmembers for the tranny/t-cases, plus do all the axle mounting stuff ... at which point you might start considering coil linkages, etc ... and it snowballs :D

Anyway, I'm talkin' out my ass, as this is WAY more complicated than anything I've done ... though it's something I'd like to do :D Just seems easier to me to fab body mounts than to do the entire drivetrain, and you did sak what's easier.

-- A
 
i know with your 1.4 eliptical suspension its going to be hard to transfer to any frame. id go with the 1 ton. its just so much stronger. and the parts you have shouldnt be that hard to adapt to it.
 
I should add, I'm 4 linked and coilover'd up front, 3 linked and 1/4 elliptic out back....'spring location' isn't a problem.Also, an exo 'cage with intergated tabs for the coilovers will be up front, tied into an interior 'cage, and then a tube bed will be tied into the interior 'cage through the back wall. THAT will be the hard/hassle part of this....I don't want hassle from the frame swap/body swap.

Advise on, gentlemen.
 
really just because of your setup id stick with a stronger frame. and i must say it sucks what happened. it couldnt of even been on the trail either.
 
big94gmc said:
I should add, I'm 4 linked and coilover'd up front, 3 linked and 1/4 elliptic out back....'spring location' isn't a problem.

Advise on, gentlemen.
Click to expand...

Fark. Have you considered just making your own from bloody great 3/8" square tube or something?

-- A
 
Yes, I'm thought about/considered building my own frame and going full tube buggy, but with the cost of materials now-a-days, that's just out of the question. Cheapest is using an existing frame and an existing body. And that brings on this question that we're discussing now.
 
Easy?

You say this can't be complex or time consuming! Being that 73 - 80 is plentiful and available, and interchangeable, I'd just find a donor truck with blown engine or drivetrain parts and put what you can salvage into it. I assume your body bit the big one based on your description of damage - and a lucky dude you are! 73 - 80 chevys are everywhere. I did a 66 on 69 frame once and it got way outta hand. Stick with stuff that lines up.
 
When you quoted finding a CUCV frame, which one did you get? The Blazer or the one ton truck frame? :ears:
 
People seem to assume that an S10 frame is weak... I'd vote for it being STRONGER then a CUCV frame(Blazer anyway). Its fully boxed back until just after the tranny crossmember. It WILL be more difficult to work with because you'll have to remove all the IFS components and brackets. THen if you really care strengthen/smooth the framerails. I did that and its turned out to be REALLY time consuming and in the end most likely not worth it. I wouldn't turn away from the S10 frame cause people hink its weak, thats just not the case.
 
I'm sorry, gentlemen, but I don't feel I'm getting the help I need.... Since I already have a fullsize frame built on, would it be easier to swap everything over to another fullsize frame and just worry about mounting a body on, or can I re-use all the suspension geometry and angles if I were to move over to another (different) frame?

And the frame lined up is an M1008, not the Blazer.
 
go with the M1008. Geometry will have to be changed for an S10, both to get it to work the way you want and to fit it to the frame.
 
I would use the K30 frame, but they are heavy. The nice thing is that they are a taller frame, so it is easy to flat belly it. They are also thicker, so boxing it isn't nessary. To put a Blazer body on them you will also need to use a body lift, or notch part of the floor to clear the frame rails, which is what I did. I have pics if you want them.
 
What is the clocking of your 205 and will it even fit between the S10 frame rails with enough room for an ehxaust or two? I know in my Jeep frame their is no room and the exhaust ended up outside the frame. That requires more skid and fab work to keep it protected.
 
Yeah I haven't fit or measured yet but I am not expecting much if any room for exhaust. S10 frame is a good distance apart(more then a Jeep), but still not great. My 205 is clocked flat so we shall see. I was planning on running a single 3" exhaust down the driver side anyway(bring the crossover pipe off the header and down under the oil pan), going with a TPI setup eventually and that will give me a good place for an O2 sensor.
 
I'm going to use the fullsize frame, and do a 'simple' frame swap. I'd rather deal with fabbing mounts for an S10 body onto a fullsize frame rather then make one ton gear fit into an S10 frame.

This way will also allow me to stretch the wheelbase towards the front more easily, too.
 
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