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Which Modification To Use To Heat Up A 1983 Carburated 454 On Startup?

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blackandgold51

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Which is the best parts to put on a 454 Carburated that will reduce engine warm up time after start up?

To get he engine in operating temparatute at reduced time

Especially on cold starts
 
blackandgold51 said:
Which is the best parts to put on a 454 Carburated that will reduce engine warm up time after start up?

To get he engine in operating temparatute at reduced time

Especially on cold starts
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You are in Louisiana? I can't imagine cold starts should be a real issue. If it doesn't run halfway decent when you first start it up, and you aren't talking 10* ambient temps, you need to get the choke adjusted properly.
 
Make sure you have a good t-stat in there. Any of my vehicles are at operating temp within 5 mins of driving, or 15 minutes idling, regardless of outside temp. And I tend to drill a small bleed hole in mine...

No excuse for it to not warm up reasonably fast.
 
Drive it, fastest way to warm up any motor...i agree with shunked...eee efff eye.
 
Heated garage works too..

Block heater works best..instant heat from the heater and less fuel waste during warm up..but might jack up your electric bill substantially if you use it often..
I drive away right after a cold start--let it run a minute or two to get oil flowing,drive gently the first few miles,that warms it up the fastest..an engine under a load always warms up faster than one sitting idling..

I have put cardboard in front of the radiator in real frigid conditions,but I had to pull over and remove it when the temps suddenly went up later in the day..

A 195 thermostat is what belongs in every GM vehicle since 1968..if you have problems in the cooling department it is usually something other than the thermostat, provided its opening at the right temperature..

People love to put in a 180 or 160 t-stat to "stop it from overheating",but in reality it doesn't do much more than delay how long it takes to overheat ..others remove the t-stat entirely and drive around with an engine that is too "cold" and it sludges up,gets crappy fuel mileage,and wears out faster..or it may still overheat because the water rushes too fast thru the radiator and doesn't get to cool off..
 
What's the engine combo? Does it have a choke? Sounds lean on cold start or choke isn't working, need a lot more info to diagnose a run problem online
 
DSRE388 said:
What's the engine combo? Does it have a choke? Sounds lean on cold start or choke isn't working, need a lot more info to diagnose a run problem online
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I'm not much on carburetors but sometimes when startup the first time in the day it stumbles after startup before the motor fully winds up before warm up
 
blackandgold51 said:
I'm not much on carburetors but sometimes when startup the first time in the day it stumbles after startup before the motor fully winds up before warm up
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So u want to know why you can't go wide open throttle on carbed engine when it's cold with out a stumble? 1. Don't do it 2. Its tuned to be closer to the correct air/fuel ratio when its warmed up, get rid of that cold stumble and it will run too rich warmed up, carbed engines MUST be warmed up before drag racing them, also most chokes have lock outs so you can't go full throttle till the choke is off and warmed up fyi
 
blackandgold51 said:
I would go EFI, however is there a way to install EFI without having to drop the tank and just bolt the wires to the fire wall with the ECU and put the fuel pump in the engine bay instead?
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You can, nothing wrong with the stock conversion pumps some come with on low hp engines, keeps the cost down, if you are 425hp+ I'd go in tank pump for sure, STILL shouldn't go wot on a cold engine, especially newer built ones, almost all piston manufacturers would cringe at the thought, that's why clearances are important, when it's cold and the is less you can scuff pistons if you drive like a 2 stroke dirt bike guy
old worn out stuff might just run crappy and be tuned wrong, I build custom Q jets, volleys, afb/ebrocks, summer/ winter will have a slightly different tune, but it's a dying art when efi tech and fast sell cheap thi alternatives, if you go stock tbi, there goes 100hp, I've ported them many times. Big block TB's, burning chips, still nowhere near any good carb setup, jmho
 
DSRE388 said:
You can, nothing wrong with the stock conversion pumps some come with on low hp engines, keeps the cost down, if you are 425hp+ I'd go in tank pump for sure, STILL shouldn't go wot on a cold engine, especially newer built ones, almost all piston manufacturers would cringe at the thought, that's why clearances are important, when it's cold and the is less you can scuff pistons if you drive like a 2 stroke dirt bike guy
old worn out stuff might just run crappy and be tuned wrong, I build custom Q jets, volleys, afb/ebrocks, summer/ winter will have a slightly different tune, but it's a dying art when efi tech and fast sell cheap thi alternatives, if you go stock tbi, there goes 100hp, I've ported them many times. Big block TB's, burning chips, still nowhere near any good carb setup, jmho
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Good advice right there. Obviously you really know what you’re talking about.
 
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TuckerK5 said:
Good advice right there. Obviously you really know what you’re talking about.
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Thanks, I do this for a living, obviously my auto correct is messed up on my phone.
I'll say this though if you already set the timing, vacuum advance unplugged you want to be between 8*-18* depending on your cam and a million other details but take a normal 350 chevy stock cam, stock engine, timing is set to 10* at idle with vacuum canister unplugged at idle but before anything bring it up to 3k rpm set to 35-38* degrees, let it idle set to 650rpm, check and see what the timing is now, if it's in range 8-12* hook your vacuum hose to to a ported source aka a port above the throttle blades,if not you may need different a distributor advance bushing, says it's ok though then if we say are running a edelbrock 650, first adjust the idle mixture screws I do the driver side first I screw it in slowly until the engine starts dropping rpm then I back it off until it speeds up and smooths out, do the same with the other mixture screw, it will want to end up being screwed out farther, that's ok, adjust idle to 650 now and adjust the screws the same way till it feels smooth and you find the sweet spot, then test drive, still hesitates then move the accelerator pump rod to the closest hole to the carb, there is 3, all warmed up most likely hesitation will be gone, Unless you have a vacuum leak, cam lobe going away ect, if it still hesitates get a couple larger squirters and go up in size until it smooth off idle.
If you have an Edelbrock that bogs going from primary to secondary you are fairly fkd. The edelbrock avs2 fixes that issue because it has an adjustable secondary air valve, that's my 2 cents for now, good luck,
PS, if the vacuum advance is giving too much advance put an adjustable one on and try 10* of vacuum advance, go till detonation starts then adjust a couple * out of it, #1 I find is vacuum leaks so be mindful and it will all be good
 
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