onlychevy6
1/2 ton status
Say you have a 75 k5 with a 350. So you do not have to smog it. Would you go with a full length header or a shorty and why?
CK5
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Which would you use?
- Thread starter onlychevy6
- Start date
long-tubes, they give better performance
Full length headers are better but you will have to redo some of the exhaust to get them in there and you may have fitment issues with the spring shackle or the front driveshaft. Shortys will bolt right in.
TheAustrian
1/2 ton status
I have long tube headers, had a complete new dual exhaust system installed, so I had to rework it anyway. The flange is very close to the front shakles, but it works.
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
In all around workability, I like shortys. Makes the starter easier to get to, and just less hassle all around.
TheAustrian
1/2 ton status
TheAustrian said:
not good picture but visible
onlychevy6
1/2 ton status
i currently have full length headers that were originally smog headers. The holes were plug filled(and now have a real bad exhaust leak). And yes the flange touches the shackle bolt. I have to get a new exhaust done. because it is too close to the floor and gets so hot your shoes stick to it. I measured the temp with a fluke heat detector and it said it was 264 degrees next to the trans tunnel and just 5 inches away it was 200 degrees. Currently my exhaust is a 3" system. And dumps out right under the front seats. I am going to swithc to a 2 1/2" system and was thinking of changing headers also.
Forgot to mention i also run dual exhaust.
Forgot to mention i also run dual exhaust.
Last edited:
broke73
1/2 ton status
Shorties, Long tubes always seem to leak at the heads.
TheAustrian
1/2 ton status
onlychevy6 said:i currently have full length headers that were originally smag headers. The holes were plug filled(and now have a real bad exhaust leak). And yes the flange touches the shackle bolt. I have to get a new exhaust done. because it is too close to the floor and gets so hot your shoes stick to it. I measured the temp with a fluke heat detector and it said it was 264 degrees next to the trans tunnel and just 5 inches away it was 200 degrees. Currently my exhaust is a 3" system. And dumps out right under the front seats. I am going to swithc to a 2 1/2" system and was thinking of changing headers also.
Forgot to mention i also run dual exhaust.
264 degrees?? Celsius or farenheit? I have no carpet inside, will roll it with protectakote. Hope this will not be a problem? If it gets too hot, why not stick a heat shield on the underbody where it is close to the headers?
onlychevy6
1/2 ton status
Farenheit. I plan on getting some carpet but with that type of temps i am affraid it will catch fire. I had a beach towel on the floor and it literally burnt a hole about the size of your fist through it. 
TheAustrian
1/2 ton status
this is 130 degree celsius, still damn hot!! But I think using some kind of a heat shield (foil) whatsoever should minimise heat comes to the floor.
I currently have full length headers and I am going to go with some shortys pretty soon. Every one I have talked to and every pic I haev seen with full length headers on our trucks they always seem to either lay on the shackle or come very close to the shackle. Mine hit when I first got them but a little clearacing later and it all fits. But I still am unhappy with the fitment hence my reason for wanting shorties. Long tube headers are better for low end torque but I will sacrifice the little low end power I may lose for better fitment and clearence under there.
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
I run good ole cast iron manifolds. Why? Because I have a stock motor and they don't leak 
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
MaxPF said:I run good ole cast iron manifolds. Why? Because I have a stock motor and they don't leak
Thats what i have too, a set of rams horns. Never had a gasket issue yet, and they have been on there 10 years.
MaxPF
1/2 ton status
garlicbreath said:
I have the stock wheezer manifolds that came on my blazer. When I build a new motor I will either use late model Vortec exhaust manifolds, or I will fabricate a set of headers. Stainless u-bends + 3/8" flanges + tig welder = custom headers that fit and dont leak
mine leak when the bolts loosen up. lately Ive been having a problem with the header bolts loosening from the head and I have to check them every few days. I also have the problem with the shackle and driveshaft clearance. Its been mentioned here before and Im going to look into running chevelle headers. they are suppose to fit and give much better clearance.
bowtiepower00
1/2 ton status
Ceramic coated full length. Buy a good pair, like thorleys, dougs, hooker, hedman, etc. Get full duals, there are kits available or find a muffler shop. Shorties are good, but you are going to lose some torque compared to a full length design. I would definately go coated. Get the correct set for your truck without AIR tubes and run without cats.
Chrisblazzer89
1/2 ton status
I have stock manifolds and soon I am going with a set of shorty hedmen headers i got for $30. All I ned is to go pick up a gasket and bam I got some shortys and tru dual 40s.
I was gonna get full headers but was told buy alot of shops about the whole leaking and bad clearence thing so I got some shortys.
I was gonna get full headers but was told buy alot of shops about the whole leaking and bad clearence thing so I got some shortys.
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
Another trick to prevent leaks and loose bolts is to get 2 sets of gaskets, and soak them in a bucket of water for 30 minutes before putting them on, put 2 on each side, then start the truck and warm the motor up, then retighten the bolts.
