I was driving down the road everything was running perfect then the truck just died like someone turned the key off. I checked everything all electrical wires, everything. When I would turn the key nothing would happen no crank, no fuel pump, volts gauge would not move nothing. The radio and lights worked. Then after about 30 minuted of checking everything the truck started, and I drove it home with no problems. The battery is good and the alternator is charging. I did some research on here and was reading it might be the ignition coil or the pickup coil. I replaced the ignition coil, rotor, distributer cap, plugs and wires about a year ago. Any info on what might be wrong?
CK5
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While driving the truck died?
- Thread starter 2_wacko
- Start date
77crewcab
1/2 ton status
Ignition module. I have had this happen several times. They are pretty cheap so now I just carry a couple spares and all the tools needed to change it out.
Ignition module won't stop the engine from cranking and the volt gauge would still work.
Ignition modules are a common failure amongst GM vehicles though so i myself keep a backup in my tool box.
Sounds like you had a dead short somewhere. Check to make sure that your positive cable from the battery to the starter hasn't grounded out on the exhaust manifold/header somewhere.
Ignition modules are a common failure amongst GM vehicles though so i myself keep a backup in my tool box.
Sounds like you had a dead short somewhere. Check to make sure that your positive cable from the battery to the starter hasn't grounded out on the exhaust manifold/header somewhere.
77crewcab
1/2 ton status
Doh! Missed that part.
The key cylinder has nothing to do with it either. If you can insert the key and turn the tumbler then nothing wrong with it, the ignition switch on the column towards the firewall end is another story. If the ignition switch goes bad you won't get power to anything that is ignition switch related.
Anything is possible. You might have a fuseable link that is going bad, they usually burn though and don't work at all until replaced. The fuseable link is what comes off the starter and then feeds into the ignition switch through the junction block on the firewall. You will find it on the passenger side engine compartment down near the starter/bellhousing area. What i would do is the next time you have the problem that it won't crank and you don't hear the fuel pump cycle check for voltage at the junction block on the firewall near the middle/driverside. If you don't have any voltage here then you have a fuseable link issue.
A fusible link is a wire that is rated for a certain amperage and when it has been exceeded the wire melts. The fusible link in question goes from the positive starter lug to the junction block on the firewall. The actual fusible portion is rather small in length, maybe only an inch or so and is usually a large round diameter section of the wiring.
Description: The traditional fusible link is a short section of wire that has a smaller diameter than the rest of the circuit. When current flow in the circuit exceeds that of the fusible link, the wire melts and interrupts the circuit. This type of fusible link is becoming quickly obsolete, as many carmakers have opted for newer technologies such as the cartridge style fuse element or maxi fuse. When a fuse link “blows”, it must be replaced
Purpose: Fusible links act as high-current fuses by protecting their circuits from excessive current draw. The capacity of fusible links is usually 30 amps or more-somewhat higher than that of standard fuses. When a fusible link blows, it means that its current-carrying capacity was exceeded and the heat across the link’s conductor caused the link to melt and open the circuit.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Blown fusible links usually indicate more serious electrical circuit problems such as a short circuit or an electrical consumer that is using more current than the circuit is designed for. If the circuit problem still exists and a new fusible link is installed, the new link will also melt. The location of fusible links varies. The older, wire style of link is usually located in a wiring harness near a main harness connection and the link may have a current capacity tag attached. Fortunately, since this type of link can be tough to find, carmakers have almost altogether changed to the cartridge style fuse element or maxi fuse. These types of fusible links are located in fuse panels at various locations on the vehicle. Check your car’s owner’s manual for fuse panel locations and their specific fusible links and capacities. To get to the root cause of your car’s electrical problem, have the system diagnosed by a qualified service professional.
Description: The traditional fusible link is a short section of wire that has a smaller diameter than the rest of the circuit. When current flow in the circuit exceeds that of the fusible link, the wire melts and interrupts the circuit. This type of fusible link is becoming quickly obsolete, as many carmakers have opted for newer technologies such as the cartridge style fuse element or maxi fuse. When a fuse link “blows”, it must be replaced
Purpose: Fusible links act as high-current fuses by protecting their circuits from excessive current draw. The capacity of fusible links is usually 30 amps or more-somewhat higher than that of standard fuses. When a fusible link blows, it means that its current-carrying capacity was exceeded and the heat across the link’s conductor caused the link to melt and open the circuit.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Blown fusible links usually indicate more serious electrical circuit problems such as a short circuit or an electrical consumer that is using more current than the circuit is designed for. If the circuit problem still exists and a new fusible link is installed, the new link will also melt. The location of fusible links varies. The older, wire style of link is usually located in a wiring harness near a main harness connection and the link may have a current capacity tag attached. Fortunately, since this type of link can be tough to find, carmakers have almost altogether changed to the cartridge style fuse element or maxi fuse. These types of fusible links are located in fuse panels at various locations on the vehicle. Check your car’s owner’s manual for fuse panel locations and their specific fusible links and capacities. To get to the root cause of your car’s electrical problem, have the system diagnosed by a qualified service professional.
All you do is cut out the bad part and solder in a new piece of fusible link wire.
Ok I found that the exhaust manifold had burned threw the coating around the battery cable +. Witch makes me think that caused the truck to short out. Then I worked my way to the red fusible links that come out from the starter to the firewall. There I noticed one of the red wires coming from the starter to the firewall had been previously been cut, and put together with a butt connector that had a very poor connection. As soon as I moved the connection the butt connector came undone. So I reconnected the wire and boom it fired up thank god. Thanks to every one on here that help out with input. Especially 4x4 High thanks a million.
Glad to have helped you. 
