CK5
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While we are discussing Transmission leaks....

No, to remove the detent you will have to drop the pan and remove the spring clip that holds the detent lever, then you can remove the cable end from the lever. There is no way that I am aware of to get the detent cable out without dropping the pan, since you will also need to hook it back up. It is pretty obvious when you get into there.

You do not have to remove the pan to remove the kickdown cable. You simply need to remove the single bolt and easily pull the housing out of the trans then with a pair of needle nose pliers you can grab hold of the metal rod and pull it up until it won't go any further and that is all the room you need to remove the cable from the rod. Reverse the procedure to reinstall the cable.
 
Among my many other exploits today, I got under there and cleaned the area where the dipstick tube is and the detent cable.

I checked the fluid level and added another half quart. I cranked it up and let it run for 20 minutes....

Then I got a bright light and watched from the top side through the engine compartment...nothing...no leak. I don't get it...

I bet when I go out there tomorrow there will be a puddle of fluid...
 
Among my many other exploits today, I got under there and cleaned the area where the dipstick tube is and the detent cable.

I checked the fluid level and added another half quart. I cranked it up and let it run for 20 minutes....

Then I got a bright light and watched from the top side through the engine compartment...nothing...no leak. I don't get it...

I bet when I go out there tomorrow there will be a puddle of fluid...
Better set a couple of traps.....Sounds like you have the dreaded Transmission Fluid Elves...

They only come out at night to drink transmission fluid. They get stoned on it and spill it everywhere.
 
my detent cable leaks on the k5. it only leaks when the fluid is full and the truck is sitting.
the fluid level is lower when the engine is running, so it wont leak as much.
my driveway leans, so i park it with the passengers side on the high side so it doesnt leak.
 
I removed the transmission pan yesterday...I still could not get to the bolt on the detent cable...the front driveshaft and exhaust are in the way.

I put a new gasket on and put the pan back on...the bolts that are on the side where the driveshaft is felt crossthreaded...I could not turn them with my fingers, so it appears that someone crossthreaded at some point.

I finally got them tightened down but it still leaks...I am about ready to call it quits and just have a Jasper transmission put in...all because of a damn leak...
 
How do you remove the front driveshaft? Mine has that double cardan joint...if you unbolt it from the front will it just pull out of the transfer case or is there something that needs to be unbolted on the shaft near the transfer case?
 
On the flange at the transfer case there are four bolts. Remove those four bolts, and the two straps/u-bolts at the front differential, then the shaft pops off the flange with the CV. There is a raised portion on the transfer case flange that rides right in the center of the flange on the driveshaft, it isn't really tight but can stick a little if it hasn't been removed in a while.
 
Drive shaft is removed...that gave me enough room to get my arm up in there to loosen the bolt on the detent cable.

I still couldn't get to it to clean it very well...

I couldn't get the cable loose to put a new o-ring on it, so after fighting with it till I couldn't hold my arms up any more I decided to RTV the living crap out of it.

I will wait until tomorrow to start it and see if it stopped the leak...:whistle:
 
Detent Cable O-Ring

Does anybody know if the o-ring that goes on the detent cable is supposed to be flat all the way around?

The one on my detent cable looks more like a piston ring than a donut...is this normal or is that what happens when an o-ring goes bad?
 
I just installed my rebuilt TH350 so I am aware of the potential leak sites. Both my dipstick tube and detent cable used a rubber sleeve (grommet) type seal instead of an o-ring.
 
I just installed my rebuilt TH350 so I am aware of the potential leak sites. Both my dipstick tube and detent cable used a rubber sleeve (grommet) type seal instead of an o-ring.

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

not sure how that answers my question at all....
 
The new o-ring on mine was round, the old one was flattened out. It happens from being in place for long periods of time, eventually the rubber wears out.
 
:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

not sure how that answers my question at all....
Does anybody know if the o-ring that goes on the detent cable is supposed to be flat all the way around?

The one on my detent cable looks more like a piston ring than a donut...is this normal or is that what happens when an o-ring goes bad?
The one you say looks like a piston ring is the sleeve style (grommet) seal not the O-ring style seal.
 
Is it pressure that causes the fluid to leak out of the detent cable or dipdtick tube? I mean is there force behind it blowing it out, or is it simply the level of the fluid as it drains back down into the pan?
 
The one you say looks like a piston ring is the sleeve style (grommet) seal not the O-ring style seal.
Here is a picture of the seal.

38233.jpg
 
Here is a picture of the seal.

38233.jpg

That is, without any doubt, unequivicaly NOT the seal that mine has...mine is a tiny ring that fits into a channel on the detent cable..it doesn't look like a top hat.

I wouldn't be against using that if it would fit.
 
OK...after sealing the dipstick tube and the detent cable, I still have a leak and I see where it is coming from...it is leaking out of that round thing that someone said is an accumulator...

How do you fix that?
 
There is a snap ring that holds the round cover on that you see. Press in on the cover and remove the snap ring. Then the cover is popped out and there is a large square cut seal that goes in behind the cover. I have never looked, but I would think one of the parts chains would carry an accumulator cover seal. Avoid pulling the accumulator, it has teflon seals that can be damaged and the whole accumulator must be replaced if the seals are damaged. You should be able to get the cover off without touching the accumulator.
 

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