Torque Management
CK5
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White Elephant 01 8.1 burb.
- Thread starter Wes Harden
- Start date
They do make widebands that have dual outputs. One is 0-5V to feed your HP Tuners and the other is inverted 0-1V to feed the ECM, mimicking a narrowband. This lets you get by with a single bung. If you go to a dyno, they just clamp the WB in the tailpipe, because they're mostly tuning WOT and there's enough airflow for that to work. I don't know if that still works with these triple-cat setups. Anyway, you don't have to use a WB, you can knock out tuning on NB, by sort of interpolating up from lower loads/RPMs to the higher ones. Anywhere you're not sure about, it's usually safe to leave the factory cal in place in that region. There are some regions that you almost never operate in, so really no gains to be made there.
As for MPG, I can only suggest 3 things:
As for MPG, I can only suggest 3 things:
- Try giving it more timing in the steady/cruise regions, but scan for knock.
- Increase the conditions where DFCO (decel fuel cut-off) is active
- Try messing with the lean/rich crossing voltage to lean it a little under cruise. Since only Holdens can use lean cruise, this is about the only way to change at all from 14.7:1
Got a chance to use the tuner. the vcm suite scanner worked correctly scanned for codes none showed monitors @1/2 set. Then tried the VCM editor, kept getting and error message interface not found or not responding. The support chat bot suggested I use the beta ver. Beta version of the editor found my MPVI3 and updated the firm ware, I was able to save a copy of current parameters. I have 2 credits to use atm. Looking at the list HPtuners shows I need a total of 6. 2 for pcm. 2 for tcm? and 2 for bcm ?
how would I share a log file. I have lots of questions, about what I am looking at what some of means.
how would I share a log file. I have lots of questions, about what I am looking at what some of means.
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You might buy a custom tune. That way you have some support in case it gets troublesome.
On my '01 and my son's '01, I am very confident that we only used 2 credits per truck.
I do know that they are a PCM, so engine and transmission are combined. Not a separate TCM.
We have made changes to both engine and transmission in both trucks, but nothing dramatic. We have discussed getting some outside help from a professional, but haven't yet. My son bought some classes from HP Tuners, although he hasn't learned enough yet to hit it hard so far, and we have had lots of other things going on this summer.
We haven't done anything with BCM except relearn one from an '02 into his '01 when we added the power accessories and harness. The VATS was triggered because of a different PCM association. We didn't use HP tuners for that, just the 30 minute relearn procedure.
I don't know what you would want to change in the BCM other than things that you can select normally.
I do know that they are a PCM, so engine and transmission are combined. Not a separate TCM.
We have made changes to both engine and transmission in both trucks, but nothing dramatic. We have discussed getting some outside help from a professional, but haven't yet. My son bought some classes from HP Tuners, although he hasn't learned enough yet to hit it hard so far, and we have had lots of other things going on this summer.
We haven't done anything with BCM except relearn one from an '02 into his '01 when we added the power accessories and harness. The VATS was triggered because of a different PCM association. We didn't use HP tuners for that, just the 30 minute relearn procedure.
I don't know what you would want to change in the BCM other than things that you can select normally.
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I did have my son work on some transmission settings. This was partially due to the shift kit and partially due to my personal preferences.
I had him adjust the "coast mode" of the TCC so that it doesn't unlock it as soon as you let off of the throttle. It now will help decelerate the truck some and unlocks at a lower speed and rpm. Obviously we left it where it unlocks when you step on the brake.
I had him adjust the "coast mode" of the TCC so that it doesn't unlock it as soon as you let off of the throttle. It now will help decelerate the truck some and unlocks at a lower speed and rpm. Obviously we left it where it unlocks when you step on the brake.
Thinking we need a "tuners" thread. I am going to have many questions.
My model MPVI3 has storage, if I plug it into aldl and drive around will create a log history ? Or do I need to have the lap top connected to do that ?
My model MPVI3 has storage, if I plug it into aldl and drive around will create a log history ? Or do I need to have the lap top connected to do that ?
I have referenced the tunerpro sticky a few times. I am not sure that software will work the HPtuners interface. I have HPtuners software to match their interface. So much to learn. and so many places to get info, though much it is not explained well. For example VE tables is talked about, but nobody so far has explained wtf VE is. I know it can be used to adjust afr during manifold pressure changes, Or as limp mode strategy if the map/maf is out. Nor where I would look for this information with the software, maybe I haven't got to that point yet.
The textbook definition is a ratio (or percentage) of the mass of air and fuel that is trapped by the cylinder during induction divided by the mass that would occupy the displaced volume if the air density in the cylinder were equal to the ambient air density.
This is the table looked up when reading the MAP sensor, to determine how much fuel the engine needs in speed density. While the MAF is the primary input for standard operation and MAP is sort of a backup in case MAF fails, the VE table also affects the fuel calculation in transients, so it can make a difference in throttle response.
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?687-Re-What-exactly-does-the-VE-table-do
This is the table looked up when reading the MAP sensor, to determine how much fuel the engine needs in speed density. While the MAF is the primary input for standard operation and MAP is sort of a backup in case MAF fails, the VE table also affects the fuel calculation in transients, so it can make a difference in throttle response.
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?687-Re-What-exactly-does-the-VE-table-do
see all they had to was volume efficiency(still guessing) table, and I would have understood. But no, no one defines the acronyms, even though the video/blog what ever is basics for beginners.
I read Chris post yesterday. What is that 10-12 paragraphs, not once does he mention what VE means
I read Chris post yesterday. What is that 10-12 paragraphs, not once does he mention what VE means
spent 30ish minutes watching Goat Rope dude, what a waste of time, he spends to much talking about what is going to come up later then actually explaining what he is doing at the moment. Watched his VCM 101, and 1.1 videos, basics right for beginners, doesn't show how to use the software, Title "VCM101" went on to make a point about using Lambda, which the transcript spells"lamda" I had to google it then sort out all the scientific hits, I understand it is another way to show air fuel ratios now, but video gave me no idea what is/was for. While it could be included in VCM101, ideally while showing how to select it or afr in the software, showing the difference in the tables, and why he prefers it over the other style.
I am trying to get the serial tach in the Ranchero working. Worked before the PO put Pertronix Ignitor conversion kit in a stock ford points dist. the owner him had converted to HEI and tach worked. At first I'm thinking the wiring is not right and searching around to see if others are having same issues. NPD video on 72 mustang very similar system, different problem won't start. Very beginning video guy is going on about doing this ohm test and showing his results, not once does he name the test or show how to set it up, just you got do it. Oh and he has 2 very different results and doesn't know why.
I am sure now our wiring is wrong. I had forgotten about the HEI conversion. So the wiring was modded for that we have 12.8 at the coil, through the factory wiring engine side of firewall, should be 7-9v. The Tach supplies the power to coil and is the resistor in the circuit. Also there is an ignition kill switch that has splice in to investigated. So will be under dash yoga time soon, just got make room for that mile long door.
I am trying to get the serial tach in the Ranchero working. Worked before the PO put Pertronix Ignitor conversion kit in a stock ford points dist. the owner him had converted to HEI and tach worked. At first I'm thinking the wiring is not right and searching around to see if others are having same issues. NPD video on 72 mustang very similar system, different problem won't start. Very beginning video guy is going on about doing this ohm test and showing his results, not once does he name the test or show how to set it up, just you got do it. Oh and he has 2 very different results and doesn't know why.
I am sure now our wiring is wrong. I had forgotten about the HEI conversion. So the wiring was modded for that we have 12.8 at the coil, through the factory wiring engine side of firewall, should be 7-9v. The Tach supplies the power to coil and is the resistor in the circuit. Also there is an ignition kill switch that has splice in to investigated. So will be under dash yoga time soon, just got make room for that mile long door.
A = Area of circle (sq.in.)
Ext = Extension
kW = Kilowatts
r = Radius
BAR = Unit of pressure
F = Fahrenheit
lbs.ft. = Force to produce torque
RPM = Revolutions per minute
β = Beta ratio
ft.lb. = A unit of work
Li = Length (inches)
sq.in. = Square inches
cc. = Cubic centimeters
F = Force
L = Liters
STL = Shaft torque limitation
C = Celsius
gal. = Gallons
µm = Micrometers
Ta = Torque accelerating
CID = Cubic inch displacement
GPM = Gallons per minute
µ = Microns
Tc = Torque continuous
CIR = Cubic inches/revolution
HP = Horsepower
ml = Milliliter
T = Torque
cu.in. = Cubic inches
Hyd = Hydraulic
mm = Millimeters
TJA = True joint angle
Cyl. = Cylinder
in. = Inches
Min. = Minutes
Ts = Torque starting
Δ = Delta (change)
in.lb. = Inches per pound
Nm = Newton meters
V = Velocity
ΔP = Delta-P or parasitic pressure in.
Hg. = Inches of mercury
OA = Operating
Vol.= Volume
d = Diameter
K = HP per foot of PLV
π = 3.1416 (pi)
VE = Volumetric efficiency
Di = Depth (inches)
Kg. = Kilograms
PPM = Parts Per Million
Wi = Width (inches)
E or EFF = Efficiency
km = Kilometer
PLV = Pitch Line Velocity
Ext = Extension
kW = Kilowatts
r = Radius
BAR = Unit of pressure
F = Fahrenheit
lbs.ft. = Force to produce torque
RPM = Revolutions per minute
β = Beta ratio
ft.lb. = A unit of work
Li = Length (inches)
sq.in. = Square inches
cc. = Cubic centimeters
F = Force
L = Liters
STL = Shaft torque limitation
C = Celsius
gal. = Gallons
µm = Micrometers
Ta = Torque accelerating
CID = Cubic inch displacement
GPM = Gallons per minute
µ = Microns
Tc = Torque continuous
CIR = Cubic inches/revolution
HP = Horsepower
ml = Milliliter
T = Torque
cu.in. = Cubic inches
Hyd = Hydraulic
mm = Millimeters
TJA = True joint angle
Cyl. = Cylinder
in. = Inches
Min. = Minutes
Ts = Torque starting
Δ = Delta (change)
in.lb. = Inches per pound
Nm = Newton meters
V = Velocity
ΔP = Delta-P or parasitic pressure in.
Hg. = Inches of mercury
OA = Operating
Vol.= Volume
d = Diameter
K = HP per foot of PLV
π = 3.1416 (pi)
VE = Volumetric efficiency
Di = Depth (inches)
Kg. = Kilograms
PPM = Parts Per Million
Wi = Width (inches)
E or EFF = Efficiency
km = Kilometer
PLV = Pitch Line Velocity
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Thanks couple new one for me in that list.
Now to get everyone using the same list
Now to get everyone using the same list
Chopperdoc on youtube has a series on hp tuners.
You can hook a wideband up and use the a/c pressure to log the readings.
I know this may be blasphemy but spend a little time on another forum... ls1tech. Damn near as old as this place, lots of info on there about ls's and tuning in general.
You can hook a wideband up and use the a/c pressure to log the readings.
I know this may be blasphemy but spend a little time on another forum... ls1tech. Damn near as old as this place, lots of info on there about ls's and tuning in general.
Had to run some errands today, new battery for the dune buggy, I don't put batteries in the wife's car so 01 burb got the task. I tried to create a stand alone log file set pids hit record, unplugged PC went and did my errands. Get home check the for log file nothing. I wish the documentation for this tuner was, much if not all the web site info is for the MVPI2. Just learning how to the tool and interface is frustrating, the documentation is terrible.
Off to another Run to the Sun event maybe Sunday I'll be able to play. I was hoping to make some minor changes before leaving to buggy event on Wednesday. May not happen. I did compare the speedo to a gps on phone today, it appears to be reading 1.5-2 mph fast. I want to change that, but don't understand the info in the speedo window of editor.
Off to another Run to the Sun event maybe Sunday I'll be able to play. I was hoping to make some minor changes before leaving to buggy event on Wednesday. May not happen. I did compare the speedo to a gps on phone today, it appears to be reading 1.5-2 mph fast. I want to change that, but don't understand the info in the speedo window of editor.
I finally fixed the rev lights, the neutral safety switch was bad. On a side note, the dumb ass, MF'n, C sucking, engineer at GM that decided to glue the connectors into the switch can go straight to hell, take Hitlers place in the pine apple up the A line.
By the time I figured out it was glued and used some heat to get them loose the larger plug was broken. I have a new plug to replace the broken one, but no the terminals are glued in and won't come out. The plug is still water tight, fits snug and the pins are still captured, zip tied the loom to the switch so the plug can't fall completely out.
I get random abs light coming on, esp when temperatures are low. I cleaned and secured the external ground to the frame, this made the light come on far less. So I decided to pop the module off the hydraulic unit and see if the pcb board need some solder work. Well some ham handed sob has been in there I can see solder work and the board is cracked. RA wants $300+ for a dorman unit + core charge, nope. If we had a pick and pull around here I would go get one. So evil bay had a rebuilt for $177 delivered, no core. I went that route hopefully will be here soon I need to head back to Utah in week or so.
By the time I figured out it was glued and used some heat to get them loose the larger plug was broken. I have a new plug to replace the broken one, but no the terminals are glued in and won't come out. The plug is still water tight, fits snug and the pins are still captured, zip tied the loom to the switch so the plug can't fall completely out.
I get random abs light coming on, esp when temperatures are low. I cleaned and secured the external ground to the frame, this made the light come on far less. So I decided to pop the module off the hydraulic unit and see if the pcb board need some solder work. Well some ham handed sob has been in there I can see solder work and the board is cracked. RA wants $300+ for a dorman unit + core charge, nope. If we had a pick and pull around here I would go get one. So evil bay had a rebuilt for $177 delivered, no core. I went that route hopefully will be here soon I need to head back to Utah in week or so.
Well that's good news and bad in one post.
You are talking about the switch on the side of the transmission, correct? I have heard that they has the connector glued in, but haven't fought one much yet. I have either been lucky when pulling stuff apart, or we left the switch plugged in and pulled it off of the shifter shaft to keep it as it was. Good that you won the battle!
Sucks that someone dorked up the ABS module though.
You are talking about the switch on the side of the transmission, correct? I have heard that they has the connector glued in, but haven't fought one much yet. I have either been lucky when pulling stuff apart, or we left the switch plugged in and pulled it off of the shifter shaft to keep it as it was. Good that you won the battle!
Sucks that someone dorked up the ABS module though.
The abs module arrived yesterday, installed. No lights no codes. I found and tightened 2 lose exhaust manifold stud nuts near 8 and 6, check some others, much quieter. Gasket is still bo. 3 tanks of gas an 1 quart of oil. I need to modify the pcv, Gm really didnt think this one through. when I replace the manifold gaskets and have the injectors serviced maybe this winter. Back St George this Wednesday going finish some clean up stuff for my pop, then make come to havasu for T day. He's never been to this house so will be nice to show it to him.
