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White Elephant 01 8.1 burb.

As far as I know, HP Tuners would be required to "not report" the error signal. We have done it to two '01 trucks. Have to buy credits, even if you find someone who has the software.
We got rid of the EGR, cats and rear O2 sensors on both trucks. But then we proceeded to go deeper into engine and transmission stuff as well, so the expense was justified.
 
Very new to tuning as in never done it.
Hp tuners web site shows my truck and then shows unlimited year/model universal credits 6
Have no clue what this means
 
Yes, only 2 credits for these. But you have to have the software to be able to use them. If you were coming by this way again, my son could handle it quickly. We have not learned much in-depth tuning on the engine yet. Too many projects and then daily life distracting us.
I had him turn of the coast function on my transmission, so that the convertor stays locked when I let off of the gas pedal, and some other small changes.
And we did a few little things with the fuel and air after the cam swap. Have to put the wide band O2 in to go any further.
But, we have the control of them, since it's his account and computer.
 
I am supposed to be helping my brother put a lm7 in his 55.5 Chevy wide window. Expecting a lot tuning in this, as well as playing with the 8.1l.
The 8.1 will always have a home either in the current 01 or swapped into the 77.
Just these 2 I might be able to justify an investment in software.
So the 2 credits are 1 time deal and I mod the the same computer any time I want? 1 time done or X amount of time window ?
 
2 credits license that file and you can tune it as many times as you want.

The software is free to download but you’ll also need the mpvi 3 dongle.
 
Basically $100 per vehicle. A shop or somebody doing a ton of the same vehicle would look at the bigger licenses. For the hardware and 1st vehicle it's $400-$500 assuming you already have a laptop or Windows tablet (with USB host). For a single vehicle setup it could be cheaper to go to a tuner, depending on how much work is needed.

Keep in mind the trickier work requires a WBO2, which will be another few hundred, but the shop will already have it. Sometimes they put it in the tailpipe, which I don't like that much (post cat), so find out which they propose.

IME a WBO2 is a lot more finicky and failure prone over the years, compared to normal NBO2, so it's OK to tune with one and then take it out for normal driving. Ignorance is bliss and our factory DD cars swing O2's all over the place during transients, but we dont know and it runs good, so we're happy. For Forced Induction a permanent WB makes more sense.

Some tuners only do the WOT, even though all the hard stuff is in the transients, which they usually don't touch (they really don't know the same magic the GM powertrain guys do). So a MPG + max power tune takes a lot more work. You have to know what they're quoting. Also be sure to differentiate between a canned tune and reading your actual data logs. Some just disable torque management, turn up the timing a little and take credit for improvement because the factory tune cripples things so much (for example, performance enrichment never happens!)
 
Well said @Blue85

I like having the control in my son's hands/computer. Even if we eventually end up needing some help if we want to chase "ultimate " programming.
And if we change things with hrsd parts, we can always access the ECM ourselves.
The learning process can be tedious, I am sure. I haven't learned much yet as my son has been doing the research, which he does mostly at night due to his job.
 
I am way to anal retentive to have a shop do it. Having a wide band o2 should be in my tool kit already with amount of air cooled vw's I re-jet and fool with.

I have a nice lap top that just got relegated to garage duty.
Mostly will be the elimination of equipment programing.
I plan on keeping my cats at least till they fail or some low life steels them. The only one non factory exhaust mani for 8.1 in burb. They are $800ish with a required $300-400 worth of adds on to make work and not burn wires. I don't see a major benefit there.
 
This will do scan tool and service functions ? Stuff like abs servise bleed, tpms relearn. steering recenter, etc . With or w/o credits ?
 
Wes Harden said:
So this and a lap top with HP Tuner VCM Suite ? https://smile.amazon.com/HP-Tuners-Interface-Diagnostic-Bluetooth/dp/B0B9CJ4VJD/ref=sr_1_1?crid=232YTC8YUO2Z1&keywords=MPVI3&qid=1674624959&sprefix=mpvi3,aps,293&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do:amzn1.fos.ac2169a1-b668-44b9-8bd0-5ec63b24bcb5&th=1

I have used fords and gm vcm with there proprietary software and downloads. All factory stuff no tweaking on my part. Jumping through the factory hoops to it always made me want to start drinking again.
Click to expand...
Buy it from hptuners.com direct to make sure there are no issues and you can buy the credits at the same time. You have to register the dongle with them anyways before you can load the credits to it and this will help simplify things. It’s only $15 more from their site.

www.hptuners.com

MPVI3 OBDII Interface – HP Tuners

Introducing the latest OBDII interface from HP Tuners, the MPVI3. Check out MPVI3's new features and tuning and diagnostic capabilities. Learn more.
www.hptuners.com www.hptuners.com

They’ve also got a forum that’s decent and the gm stuff is the busiest and most well known so plenty of help.
 
Wes Harden said:
This will do scan tool and service functions ? Stuff like abs servise bleed, tpms relearn. steering recenter, etc . With or w/o credits ?
Click to expand...
Sorry, no ABS or BCM functions. It does engine and transmission only. Usually TPMS relearn is easy with a $20 transmitter. HPTuners is actually two programs. The scanner can be used with any car as much as you want and it does offer some services like reading/clearing DTCs and CASE learn, as well as datalogging. The Tuner is what requires credits and is where you make changes to the calibration, like spark, fuel, torque management, etc. Pretty much all the drivetrain and emissions stuff is routed to the PCM, so you can rescale your speedometer, change the curve of the fuel gauge, delete security features, remove EGR, disable fault codes (the ultimate fix for evap slow leak issues!) and things like that.
 
Note that there are two versions of the dongle and the better one lets you bring in the signal from a WBO2 and datalog that with the other parameters. There are other ways to accomplish this, though, such as using the analog EGR position feedback as an input. Just things to research before buying.
 
I have 4kish miles on this beast.
It had been setting an EVAP code.
I replaced the purge valve at the intake, after a smoke check showed no leaks, all was good, for a few days. Then the Mil lamp lit, I figured it was the EVAP code again. Nope O2 heater 2-1, which just happens to be the side with a manifold exhaust leak at #8.
I order 2 new gm O2 sensors from Rock Auto. Pulled the inner right fender skirt. Peeked up and saw a missing bolt in exhaust manifold. My fear was it was broken. I replaced the bolt and check as many of the others as I could get a tool on. Only the other #8 bolt was loose. I figure the gasket is bad, but fingers crossed. Even with the missing bolt it would quite down when warmed up.
Did the O2s I figured they are original, at 141k they might be slowing down. Both came out easy with an open end wrench no less.
Had an annoying drip off the oil pan, looked like oil on the ground.
Trying to pin point the source I noticed the oil pan seam was wet, from the middle of the block. This is where the water galley plug is, I had them out in July of 22. Well sprayed them both down with brake clean, hit them with a socket and long handle ratchet. Pass side was tight, got @3/4 of turn from the driver's side. Driver side was the wettest. I also suspected a small coolant leak, the bottle level has dropped a tiny bit. I figured it was a heater hose connection, since I disturbed them when doing the water pump and radiator. Hopefully this solves both the coolant loss and the drip in the driveway.
Going to replace the idler arm as well today. I thought I had ordered a pitman arm as well but looks like not.
Rotate tires, and top off fluids, maybe give her a bath.

IMG_20230220_123913.jpg
 
After replacing the missing exhaust manifold bolt leak is much better. I can still hear leak, a little bit on a cold start. Quites right down and don't hear it on warm restart.
Check short term fuel trims, bank 1 is negative and bank 2 is positive. O2's are switching well.
Haven't checked the drip. Maybe get out and look some today.
 
As far as the tune goes, turning off torque management and burst knock retard will go a long way to improving low speed driveability and power. We found out on Ron’s 8.1 that Allison equipped trucks won’t let you turn those two items off, but 4L80e truck will be able to.
 
I haven't jumped into the tuning pool just yet. Was reading data on my scan tool
 
Curious did gas mileage improve any?
I get 12ish on road trips. Got 11ish towing the dune buggy to KOH
 
Wes Harden said:
Curious did gas mileage improve any?
I get 12ish on road trips. Got 11ish towing the dune buggy to KOH
Click to expand...
Eh. We are still talking about an 8.1 right? :haha:

In all actuality being able to get to the power the stock tune normally keeps from you might hurt mileage a teeny bit. Only because you don’t have the computer pulling timing as soon as the rpm’s start to climb on acceleration.

8.1s without that crap just lack that soggy feeling down low until the rpm builds. Drive it like a sane adult and it’s probably not going to hurt the mileage.

But you are right in the range of anybody I know with an 8.1 for fuel economy. You might squeak out some more that you fixed the exhaust leak on one side. That really fools the o2 sensor on that side and it will throw more fuel at it to overcome the higher oxygen in the exhaust stream.

Mine went pig rich each time the donut blew out on the left side of mine. You’ll see it with the fuel trim data if you watch it. I bet driving it now the bank that had the leak settles down and gets closer to the other side.
 
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