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Who all has 35 spline Yukon Lockouts?

82355

82355

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I just got done installing a set I bought a few months ago. They are HARD to turn. Between LOCK and FREE they hit a tight spot, and I have to use a pair of pliers to get them past it. Other than that, they work fine.

Anyone else have any complaints or comments on them?

Martin
 
Mine were tight as well. Seems like after I drove the truck a bit in 4wd and locked/unlocked them a handful of times they got better. I think the tolerances on these hubs are just A LOT tighter than what we're all used to.
 
noted, haven't installed mine yet. That would drive me crazy trying to fix something not fixable.
 
I don't have the Yukon lockouts, but since im lazy I just made a neat little T-wrench out of PVC with some notches cut in the base to turn the hubs. I keep it shoved onto my seat adjuster lever for easy access.
 
I use to have a set of Spicers on a Dana 60, and they were a pain in the ass as well. They are similar in design, not?

Martin
 
SM465 in neutral, NP203 in neutral, NP205 in neutral, axle supported on jackstands, and no tires or brakes on the axle......

Martin
 
I have them but they are still on the work bench. It will be a spring time install. Was supposed to be a summer/fall install :whistle:
 
Passenger side seems harder than the other but it does seem to get easier with every use. 700r4/208....backing up some helps relieve any pressure too. Not complaining yet as these seem built really nice.
 
I left it in neutral, and just rolled the front tire back and forth while turning it, and that helped.

Martin
 
Not sure if you've had the chance to run them much, but do these stay locked in whatever position you put them in any better than Warns? I've got 35 spl premiums, and it's frustrating as hell that nearly every time I check them on my occasional preflight, the driver side hub just loves to work it's way towards the locked position. Not all the way mind you, just enough to make a buzz sound as the lockout tries to engage the stub splines while I'm driving :mad:

Seriously thinking about ditching the Warns for the Yukons next chance I get.
 
They have not moved on their own yet for me. They are still a little stiff, but I just have to grab the tire and rock it a little.

Martin
 
Since you mentioned them being a bit stiff again... I don't know if you saw my post about the PVC T-handle earlier in the thread, but this was what I was talking about. It's pretty handy when there's not much material to grab on my Warns, let alone those low profile Yukons :)


http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10719

Mine is a bigger ID, but you get the idea. I keep it shoved onto my seat adjustment knob for quick access.
 
schuttothrill said:
Not sure if you've had the chance to run them much, but do these stay locked in whatever position you put them in any better than Warns? I've got 35 spl premiums, and it's frustrating as hell that nearly every time I check them on my occasional preflight, the driver side hub just loves to work it's way towards the locked position. Not all the way mind you, just enough to make a buzz sound as the lockout tries to engage the stub splines while I'm driving :mad:

Seriously thinking about ditching the Warns for the Yukons next chance I get.
Click to expand...
That's a common problem with Warn premiums. The lockouts you get for a 35spl D60 were originally made for another axle conversion. On the D60, the stub shaft lightly rubs the dial on the lockout causing the dial to move and work its way towards LOCK. Best solution is to use a grinder and know some material off the end of the stub. I think generally it's about 1/16 of an inch.

Sounds like the Yukon lockouts operate about like the factory Spicer lockouts. As others have mentioned, I have made a little PVC pipe tool to operate mine.
 
mrk5 said:
That's a common problem with Warn premiums. The lockouts you get for a 35spl D60 were originally made for another axle conversion. On the D60, the stub shaft lightly rubs the dial on the lockout causing the dial to move and work its way towards LOCK. Best solution is to use a grinder and know some material off the end of the stub. I think generally it's about 1/16 of an inch.

Sounds like the Yukon lockouts operate about like the factory Spicer lockouts. As others have mentioned, I have made a little PVC pipe tool to operate mine.
Click to expand...

Come to think of it I think I read that same thing about the stubs rubbing and forgot all about it! Thanks for the info! :bow:
 
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