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Who all is running Dual Batties and who thinks it was worth the expense

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I've been considering running duals for awhile now, but I was wondering if there was anyone who wishes they hadn't spent the money on the upgrade

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I too am wondering this, and from skimming through all the replies here, i didnt see a response.. is it worth the extra cost? where does it come in handy? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
the solenoid will allow the alt to keep your 2nd batter charged at all times while the isolator will not let ur 2nd battery discharge power through ur vehicle when ur drving down the road...this is the only way i know how to set up a dual set up efficiently...there are other products you can buy that may simplify ur wiring requirements, but they will come with a price....ford solenoids are a dime a dozen and isolator switches can be found an any radio shack...
 
if ur running massive accessories w/ a low amp alt, your gonna kill ur only batt and be stuck in the middle of who know's where...that would be pretty bad if ur by urself!!! when i use my winch and accessories, i'm only drawing power from my second battery...in the event i some how kill that batt, all i have to do is click the isolator switch to off and sit there and idle for a while and it will recharge...then i'm back on the "get me the hell out of this hole switch"...even a high amp altenator with one batt is still a dice roll...no matter the circumstances, i could not imagine not having the ability to always have a running vehicle in any situation as long is i perform normal maint on my primary batt...
 
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I just hooked mine together and I can't imagine doing it any other way.

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this on a DD??
 
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I just hooked mine together and I can't imagine doing it any other way.

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this on a DD??

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No, but what difference does that make? My truck has sat for weeks at a time outside with the batteries hooked up and still started just nicely.

I trailer my truck any time it goes anywhere now.
 
I've noticed when i have both batteries running because i forgot to flip the isolator switch, i have issues w/ my accessories off the main batt when the alt is spinnin at hgwy speeds...if ur low on the throttle or not getting up to high speeds, tieing both batts together wouldn't be a problem...but with a DD, there's definetly an issue...it hasn't damaged anything, but i usually pull off the road the moment it starts happening..
 
I just replaced my front clip and the new one has a second battery tray already.
This is how I am going to wire up a second battery.
I am able to get everything fom the parts dept at work.
Run both neg posts togeter and ground to the block.
Two solinoids, one a Ford style starter solinoid the other a constant duty solinoid.
Both mounted to the right inner fender, with the constant duty in front.
Connect the alt output wire and the main battery pos cable to the rear side of the constant duty. Jumper cable to the starter solinoid front terminal, from the switched side of that one run the starter cable.
From the switched terminal on the constant duty which will be the front one, run another 4ga wire to the pos terminal of the aux battery.
Install a switch in the dash to control charging of the aux battery.
All vehicle related circuits are routed to the main battery.
The winch, off road lights and such are hooked to the aux battery.
If the starter solinoid is not going to be used just connect the alt output and the main battery charging cable to one side and run the aux battery charge cable to the switched side of the constant duty.
A Ford starter solinoid could be used in this application but I wouldn't recomend it, that's just asking for a thermal event.
 
Anyone using the Painless Performance dual battery kit? I've looked at those for a little bit and it looks like they are only using a solenoid and no isolator. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I have a marine switch, Perko is the brand about $30. Very easy to wire and allows manual switching from bat 1, bat 2, both and off. Beaing able to jump start yoursealf is a wonderful thing as well as havein a off setting for long down times or emergencies.
 
I have not looked into the painless kit but with a solinoid there is no need for a battery isolator.
You just flip a switch and charge the aux battery when needed.
The solinoid is the "isolator"
 
I just drew up another schematic for the dual battery system and included a battery switch. Just for starting the rig with the other battery.
It looks kinda comlicated but it isn't realy.
The way I have it drawn out is with a Constant duty solinoid to regulate battery charging, either main or both main and aux.
A battery switch to to the starter solinoid to be able to use the aux battery to start the rig if the main battery has gone dead.
Ford type starter solinoids have 2 small teminals labled S and I
The S is the start circuit and I is battery voltage when the S terminal is energized. Follow??
Run a wire from the I terminal to the coil + terminal.
That way if the main battery is below the voltage reqired to fire the coil it will provide full battery voltage to it when cranking and it will start.
Once the engine fires and is reved up the alt will kick on and begin supplying full batt voltage and begin charging the main battery.
I was just lookin at the engine bay and there is more than enough room to mount them as follows.
From the front of the right fender..
Alt constant duty solinoid
Batt switch.
Starter solinoid.
The main battery is always charging.
When in use the aux batt can be charged with the main at the flip of a switch.
If the main battery has gone dead for whatever reason open the hood and flip the battery switch to the aux position and fire it up.
The switch can then be switched to the main battery when it has had enough time to recharge.
I tried to scan my schematic but it came out like crap.
 
if someone does do the ford solenoid and switch set-up, can they do a write up? I am very interested in it, but I am brainless with wiring etc. and it would help me alot.
 
What type of problems were you having? I'm just having trouble figuring out how an increase in available amperage would cause problems with the electrical system. I have an isolator but I'm not sure if I'll be installing it in the system since it just seems like another component to fail. I'm not running a lot of extra electrical components so the second battery would only be for increased capacity during starting (until I install the electric fans). My alt is a high output Powermaster so keeping the system up to speed shouldn't be a problem.
 
I don't see a problem either.
I just think that using all the switches just cuts down on the amp. output. I use to use a battery isolator and I still have a manual switch but I found that with my accessories, I would run down the main battery and need to switch on the aux. battery. or my lights would start dimming with the off-road lights on. I don't like the idea of being a manual voltage regulator. I do admit that there was some times that I ran my stereo way too long and ran down my main battery so it was nice to give myself a jump with the turn of a switch but it is much nicer just having them tied together and not need to worry about dimming lights or a winch running down the batteries when I need them. I have never had a problem again since I did this and I take full advantage of the output of my 140A alternator.
 
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I've been considering running duals for awhile now, but I was wondering if there was anyone who wishes they hadn't spent the money on the upgrade

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I too am wondering this, and from skimming through all the replies here, i didnt see a response.. is it worth the extra cost? where does it come in handy? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

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I touched on this a little bit a few posts up. It really depends on your electrical requirements. If all that you have to do is start the vehicle, then it is probably not worth it. If you have some heavy current draw (winch, welder, lights...) then it would be worth the effort. I plan on using 4 batteries.
 
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I don't see a problem either.
I just think that using all the switches just cuts down on the amp. output. I use to use a battery isolator and I still have a manual switch but I found that with my accessories, I would run down the main battery and need to switch on the aux. battery. or my lights would start dimming with the off-road lights on. I don't like the idea of being a manual voltage regulator. I do admit that there was some times that I ran my stereo way too long and ran down my main battery so it was nice to give myself a jump with the turn of a switch but it is much nicer just having them tied together and not need to worry about dimming lights or a winch running down the batteries when I need them. I have never had a problem again since I did this and I take full advantage of the output of my 140A alternator.

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It sounds to me like you could seriously benefit from an even higher amperage alternator. Your electrical draw from the stereo, winch, and lights not to mention the truck with an electric fuel pump and all the trimmings really seems to desire more current than it can provide.

I'm sure you're not running all of your electrical accessories at one time, but the main reason I haven't yet decided on an alternator to upgrade to is that I don't want to be in the boat that you're in.
 
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if someone does do the ford solenoid and switch set-up, can they do a write up? I am very interested in it, but I am brainless with wiring etc. and it would help me alot.

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OK here is a diagram. This setup uses 2 solenoids and with a flip of the switch in the cab you can connect both your batteries together for double starting power or to jump a dead primary battery. You can also use this switch to run 2 batteries worth of power to a winch should you need it but you run the risk of draining both batteries. Switch 1 can go under the hood and is just a toggle switch and a manual disconnect of the secondary battery from the charging circuit. This will usually be on to allow the secondary battery to charge when the ingition is on. Only turn it if you have a bad seconadry battery or no secondary battery. Switch 2 I recommend putting in the cab somewhere although it can go under the hood as well. Use switch 2 when you need more cranking power, but do not leave this switch on, only use it when you need it. The rest of the diagram should be self explanitory.

diagram.jpg
 
One common problem I see is improper placement of the field wire for the alternator when using an isolator. Most people wire up the isolator but leave the field wire in the stock position. This, over a period of time, will ruin the alternator or in the best case, cause charging problems.

What is happening is that the feild wire is on the original battery. This is the wire that senses the volteage and tells the alternator to charge (this is simplified). Now the charging wire runs through the isolator. You can have a dead secondary battery with a charged up primary battery. The feild wire runs to the charged battery telling the alternator not to put out a huge charge. The reason that this still half ass works is that the primary might want a little charge while the truck is running. The isolator puts the current to the dead secondary based on voltage level. The primary is not getting much and the voltage begins to go down and the alternator puts out more. Eventually it all gets charged up but its a honky doo way of doing it and is tough on the components.

What you do is to pull off the field wire and hook it up the the alternator input on the isolator (mine is connected right to the power ouput on the alternator itslef to save on the wiring). This lets the isolator run the current where it needs to go the most and gives both batteries what they need.

Then you can run a big wire with a Ford selenoid for winching and jump starting.

Freind of mine used to go through alternators every 6 months (heavy usage and winching). We moved the field wire over and the problems went away. The batteries last longer too.
 
There are instructions in Standard Ignition "Blue Streak" illustrated parts guide on how to use one of their solenoids for an auxillary battery switch--I have the book in my shop,I'll have to bring it in later and I'll post the part # of the solenoid and how to wire it--its pretty simple,and I sold many of them for this purpose with no problems. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
I often wonder why my diesel has to have two batteries,when I can start my friends 1700 Trojan loader with my plain old group 24 car battery like nothing,even in the cold weather,it has a detroit diesel 4 cylinder motor,and its supposed to have one of those huge 4D tractor trailer size batteries in it--also wonder why most people dont use one of theese big batteries,or a group 31 battery for more cranking poewr and reserve capacity,other than the weight, group 31 isnt that much bigger than a regular size car battery,but has studs instead of posts,I had one from a backhoe in my plow truck for 7 years,never failed me once til the day it finally croaked,due to my lack of use and letting it sit too long. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
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