who else has alot of horsepower and torque

[Steve GMC]

well im running a 496/4500/205 and my engine builder told me he suggested running a solid engine mount on the driverside to prevent destroying engine mounts... anyone do this? what are u running? im worried if i do run the solid its gonna tear the frame up.

heres a sneek peek at the project ive had for a few years now... one of these days ill put up a build thread

thanks guys

 

[tyler__820]

HOLY GOD!!!!! that is the sweetest thing i have seen. where did you get those valve covers and how do you get a 496 stroker?

 

[Steve GMC]

HOLY GOD!!!!! that is the sweetest thing i have seen. where did you get those valve covers and how do you get a 496 stroker?

lol. easy killer. its a 454 bored .60 over... 4.25 scat stroker crank, eagle stock length connecting rods with shorter JE srp pistons... and a few other doo dads inbetween ohh and the valve covers... ebay

 

[4X4HIGH]

I would not suggest running a solid mount on the driverside, i would however make a chain or nylon limiting strap so that the mount can't be torn in half.

BTW, Greg72 has a couple high HP/TQ engines i built for him. One is a 496 stroker and the other a 502. They will both make some VERY respectable numbers.

Why did your engine builder stay with a stock length rod on a stroker engine? Everybody knows you should increase rod length on a stroker engine.

 

[blowedupmotor87]

WOW! Nice! I think I am not alone in saying- we need more pics!

As to the mounting, I don't have a lot of HP (stock 350tbi) but, I would personally shy away from solid motor mounts. They transmit a lot more vibration to the frame and putting the engine solidly to a frame that is gonna flex while fourwheeling seems like asking for trouble to me. I'd probably go with some kind of a heavy duty poly mount like form ORD or DIY4X:
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/motormounts.htm
http://www.diy4x.com/engine.htm
Anyways, looks like a great build so far, good luck bro!

 

[Steve GMC]

Why did your engine builder stay with a stock length rod on a stroker engine? Everybody knows you should increase rod length on a stroker engine.

well i wanted the engine for torque and he said with the stock length rod it helps suck in the air/fuel at low rpm. or it was becasue it produced more vacume... i cant remember the exact terms he used but it was for low end.. all my torque will be at <4500

 

[4X4HIGH]

The problem with a long stroke and a short rod is there is alot of side loading on the cylinder walls and that leads to a shorter engine life. Yes the longer rod does have more dwell time at TDC but the cubes alone are going to produce some huge numbers. Ask Greg if he remembers what the numbers are for the engines i built for him, they are large numbers but at a low RPM level that is in the USEABLE rpm range.

 

[Steve GMC]

The problem with a long stroke and a short rod is there is alot of side loading on the cylinder walls and that leads to a shorter engine life. Yes the longer rod does have more dwell time at TDC but the cubes alone are going to produce some huge numbers. Ask Greg if he remembers what the numbers are for the engines i built for him, they are large numbers but at a low RPM level that is in the USEABLE rpm range.

hmm. interesting... thanks for the input i appreciate it.. the guy i had build my engine has done alot of engines in his day and suggested i go this way for my application... he used to build engines for tractor pullers but now the business is mostly for peoples muscle cars so when i told him what i wanted to do he got all excited and just built the best streetable high torque engine... thanks for the thought tho... i guess i learned something today

 

[boz42]

Nice set-up, I am digging the BBC/4500 set up.


I am running a 547 caddy stroker. It makes respectable power & I too would shy away from solid mounts.

I am running some that I made from tube & spring eye bushings. That way even if somehoe it spits the bushing out it still can't come all the way apart.

 

[mtnman]

I'm running a long rod 383 w/ AFR heads and 11 to 1 compression 400+ hp and 450+ tq. I used to KILL stock motor mounts frequently. Now I run the DIY mounts and love em'!

 

[Fabrimacator21]

sounds like a job for polyurethane mounts.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Just remember that whatever material you use for motor mounts you must also use for t-case mounts as well otherwise you'll end up with broken adapters, trans case or bellhousing.

 

[JDNobodi]

What brand of intake do you have on your motor?
BTW, I use poly inserts in a factory clam shell mount. No problems yet.

 

[mad_burban]

Just remember that whatever material you use for motor mounts you must also use for t-case mounts as well otherwise you'll end up with broken adapters, trans case or bellhousing.

So if you use the diy4x mounts then you recommend poly mounts for the tranny/t-case as well? I have a 468 and im trying to eliminate all weakness(as much as possible) Btw Nice stroker!

 

[Steve GMC]

its an edelbrock airgap intake... hmm yah i was wondering about those inserts ive seen those. or just call up kert and rock the pollys... thats prob best for me, then i gotta find a polly trans mount... anybody else run the polly inserts in the stock clamshell?

 

[cegusman]

So if you use the diy4x mounts then you recommend poly mounts for the tranny/t-case as well? I have a 468 and im trying to eliminate all weakness(as much as possible) Btw Nice stroker!

Yes run a poly trans mount too. I have see two transmission cases crack due to running poly at the motor and rubber at the trans.

 

[k20]

I have a 496 in mine, I run the energy suspension poly mounts all around. No problems so far.

 

[Steve GMC]

yah i just got a set of the energy suspension polly insert engine mounts... and ordered the polly trans mount too... thanks for the input everybody

 

[cybrfire]

Motor is solid mounted in my blazer in the front of the block as well as a mid plate and the tcase and doubler adapter are all also solid mounted.

Love it, won't ever do it any other way again, for an offroad specific vehicle.