garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
Who on here is running WVO in their daily driver or going through the process of making biodiesel?
CK5
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Who is running WVO or making Biodiesel for their DD?
- Thread starter garlicbreath
- Start date
Big91RustyBucket
1/2 ton status
I am very curious about this as well.
PsRumors
1/2 ton status
A friend and I tried it a couple years ago. The problem we had is with two companies here in GA. They put out nice collection bins for free and then sell the user new oil at a discounted rate. They then have the user sign a contract.
It was a short lived interest for us.
It was a short lived interest for us.
Pookster
1/2 ton status
I do it... Its not bad for our motors, but you just have to give it excellent filtration and heat it up.. otherwise the IP goes bye bye.
If you pour straight into the tank and do a mix, that is ok too, but the WVO tends to get things a bit sticky over time, causing the tank readings to get wonky.
If you have a dual saddle bag, its actually easier, youc an just convert the second tank. Single tank trucks are a tad bit more annoying, but can be done.
For the K5/burbs, you can pickup a 24 gallon flat marine tank- thats what I did. Its made of plastic, and comes with fittings already for vent, fill, return, and fill... they make a 30 and 40 gallon one as well, but as I measured it, it fits exactly into the rear bed area of a burb, with the spare tire mounted.
the truck runs perfectly fine on it, just carry a few extra filters. You may need to add an extra fuel pump (like a sureflo) just to help things along.
If you pour straight into the tank and do a mix, that is ok too, but the WVO tends to get things a bit sticky over time, causing the tank readings to get wonky.
If you have a dual saddle bag, its actually easier, youc an just convert the second tank. Single tank trucks are a tad bit more annoying, but can be done.
For the K5/burbs, you can pickup a 24 gallon flat marine tank- thats what I did. Its made of plastic, and comes with fittings already for vent, fill, return, and fill... they make a 30 and 40 gallon one as well, but as I measured it, it fits exactly into the rear bed area of a burb, with the spare tire mounted.
the truck runs perfectly fine on it, just carry a few extra filters. You may need to add an extra fuel pump (like a sureflo) just to help things along.
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
So is it worth it to try to come up with a home made setup?
I bought a 97 powerstroke with 45k on it and think with a 90 gallon transfer tank it would be perfect.
Do you still have to run all the heaters with processed biodiesel as apposed to just filter wvo?
I bought a 97 powerstroke with 45k on it and think with a 90 gallon transfer tank it would be perfect.
Do you still have to run all the heaters with processed biodiesel as apposed to just filter wvo?
PsRumors
1/2 ton status
Processed bio-diesel needs no heaters or extra filters if processed correct.
You can do a homemade setup cheap. If I could put my hands on WVO to convert I would do it in a heart beat.
You can do a homemade setup cheap. If I could put my hands on WVO to convert I would do it in a heart beat.
4by4bygod
1/2 ton status
Just to be precise, biodiesel and waste vegetable oil aren't the same thing, although you'll hear the terms used interchageably. ( when they shouldn't be) when people are talking generically about 'biofuel'..
Biodiesel comes from processed plants, ( soybeans, rapeseed, etc.)..WVO is leftover from the cooking process. WVO needs to be pre heated, as it is more viscous than biodiesel, and needs heat to help it flow.. same with animal fat biofuels.they set up quickly too.
Biodiesel comes from processed plants, ( soybeans, rapeseed, etc.)..WVO is leftover from the cooking process. WVO needs to be pre heated, as it is more viscous than biodiesel, and needs heat to help it flow.. same with animal fat biofuels.they set up quickly too.
PsRumors
1/2 ton status
4by4bygod said:
Yes, but you can convert WVO to a bio-diesel like substance at home which would enable one to run it without extra filters and heaters. This is the way I was trying to go just couldn't put my hands on the WVO to process.
runamok151
1 ton status
i was looking into this after i bought my '05 cummins last year. i was disappointed to read in the owners manual that cummins does not want more than 5% bio run in their engines. don't know why?? i was looking at getting the freedom fuel america system. ends up costing about 70-80 cents/ gallon. i had already talked to some local restaurants about using their wvo, the local McD and a chinese place. it would have saved them paying for disposal.
here's the link to ffa
http://www.freedomfuelamerica.com/
here's the link to ffa
http://www.freedomfuelamerica.com/
Perhaps the manufacturer is simply trying to protect themselves from warranty issues, as it sounds like done incorrectly, or used improperly, you could do a fair number to your diesel. 
I assume there isn't much "testing" of the finished product involved when made at home, nor much in the way of standards for stuff processed somewhat commercially?
Maybe they figure the 5% figure will scare most people, and those that it doesn't, won't add enough to do much harm, even if it's poorly made stuff.
I assume there isn't much "testing" of the finished product involved when made at home, nor much in the way of standards for stuff processed somewhat commercially?Maybe they figure the 5% figure will scare most people, and those that it doesn't, won't add enough to do much harm, even if it's poorly made stuff.
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
4by4bygod said:
One of the reasons I want to do WVO vs bio is I want to build a complete on truck setup so I can fill up where I am.
I figured with a 110 gallon tank for the wvo, I could almost make it denver for free, then find a place to fill again.
The bio is an option, but then I would have to process in the neighborhood of 270 gallons and take it all with me to make it there and back.
4by4bygod
1/2 ton status
Gotcha..garlicbreath said:
Just so you have it, here's a paper from the US department of energy's "clean city" program, detailing some issues with vegetable oil.. and these folks are as "green" as the day is long, so it's not an 'anti' site..
Go here first - http://www.biodiesel.org/resources/fuelfactsheets/default.shtm
then scroll down to where it says " engine manufacturers", then click on the link for "clean cities fact sheet, using straight vegetable oil for a diesel fuel"..
I can't seem to link directly to the pdf, sorry..
they do talk about blending with methanol to make biodiesel, ( I forgot you could do that, until I was reminded of it in this thread ) but methanol is tightly regulated right now (thanks tweekers ), and you can't just go buy it.. anyway, you don't want to be a chemist I know, so I present this in order that you'll know everything about WVO / SVO before you embark on the project..
Big91RustyBucket
1/2 ton status
4by4bygod said:
Linky no worky
4by4bygod
1/2 ton status
I know.. I had to use an alternate method..Big91RustyBucket said:
anyway, there's a lot of pertinent info on that page.
Pookster
1/2 ton status
WVO and biodiesel are two seperate things, but closely related, only seperated by a few atoms (namely removing of glycerin and adding methane). The point is, there are two major issues:
1. Getting oil
2. Processing it
I've been doing it for over 5 years, so I have just slightly more experience- I will tell you this much, do not be afraid to try what is tried and true. When I tried it in the beginning, I was always looking for a "easier" way- but in fact, there were few shortcuts to be had. Buy the right equipment the first time, and you will be happier in the end.
WVO and bio-D both have gel points significantly higher than regular diesel.
Bio D's gel point tend to vary depending on what oil it was made from. Not an issue right now in the summer, but can be later. It also depends on who makes it, as it depends on how much darn methanol they didnt wash out, and what will attack seals and all. This is why cummins and dodge are saying 5%, even if pumps out west are doing 20-50% concentrations.
WVO works well, but you have to remember limitation in the applications. DB2 pumps tend to be weaker than inline pumps. Certain year cummins have weak pumps already, so they are also ruled out. WVO should be heated to the point where the viscosity of the oil is less than diesel on a relatively cold day. I aim for at least 100 degrees.
The quality of the oil you get can vary greatly. DO not accept animal fat, lard, or other nasty oil that you would turn your head away from and go, "yuck". These oils can be used to make bio D but should not be used for straight WVO use.
You can make your own kit - its not that hard, but try and plan out what you intend to do first. The transfer tank in the pickup bed is definately an added bonus, but you have to figure out how to plumb that into your stock fuel system, and a switch of some sort to swap from fuel to fuel.
Filtering is another big issue- do not skimp, do not think, "its clean enough", you must clean clean clean the oil. WVO tends to be harder to filter- requiring heating to get the viscosity so that it flows better. You should not put anything into your vehicle filtered unless its filtered to at least 10 microns (preferably 5). This requires stages of filtration- and of course, some mess.
TRy not to mess with individual jugs, except for transport. Once you get them, let them settle, and use only the top portion. Filter the top portion to a reasonable (50 micron), and then put that in a 55 gallon drum. THen run that to another drum at 20. Finally, before the final push into your onboard tank, run it through a 5 or 10 micron. Some stuff still will get through, thats why you have your onboard. Pour all the dregs into other jugs, and let them settle again. When they no longe rsettle, dispose of the waste propertly, by burning if you hav esome way to use the heat, or by recycling.
If you skip this step, you will clog your onboard filter only after a few hundred miles.
1. Getting oil
2. Processing it
I've been doing it for over 5 years, so I have just slightly more experience- I will tell you this much, do not be afraid to try what is tried and true. When I tried it in the beginning, I was always looking for a "easier" way- but in fact, there were few shortcuts to be had. Buy the right equipment the first time, and you will be happier in the end.
WVO and bio-D both have gel points significantly higher than regular diesel.
Bio D's gel point tend to vary depending on what oil it was made from. Not an issue right now in the summer, but can be later. It also depends on who makes it, as it depends on how much darn methanol they didnt wash out, and what will attack seals and all. This is why cummins and dodge are saying 5%, even if pumps out west are doing 20-50% concentrations.
WVO works well, but you have to remember limitation in the applications. DB2 pumps tend to be weaker than inline pumps. Certain year cummins have weak pumps already, so they are also ruled out. WVO should be heated to the point where the viscosity of the oil is less than diesel on a relatively cold day. I aim for at least 100 degrees.
The quality of the oil you get can vary greatly. DO not accept animal fat, lard, or other nasty oil that you would turn your head away from and go, "yuck". These oils can be used to make bio D but should not be used for straight WVO use.
You can make your own kit - its not that hard, but try and plan out what you intend to do first. The transfer tank in the pickup bed is definately an added bonus, but you have to figure out how to plumb that into your stock fuel system, and a switch of some sort to swap from fuel to fuel.
Filtering is another big issue- do not skimp, do not think, "its clean enough", you must clean clean clean the oil. WVO tends to be harder to filter- requiring heating to get the viscosity so that it flows better. You should not put anything into your vehicle filtered unless its filtered to at least 10 microns (preferably 5). This requires stages of filtration- and of course, some mess.
TRy not to mess with individual jugs, except for transport. Once you get them, let them settle, and use only the top portion. Filter the top portion to a reasonable (50 micron), and then put that in a 55 gallon drum. THen run that to another drum at 20. Finally, before the final push into your onboard tank, run it through a 5 or 10 micron. Some stuff still will get through, thats why you have your onboard. Pour all the dregs into other jugs, and let them settle again. When they no longe rsettle, dispose of the waste propertly, by burning if you hav esome way to use the heat, or by recycling.
If you skip this step, you will clog your onboard filter only after a few hundred miles.
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
Hey pookster, what method do you use for processing your bio?
Do you wash it?
And how are you heating it?
I would PM you but there isn't that option for you.
Do you wash it?
And how are you heating it?
I would PM you but there isn't that option for you.
Pookster
1/2 ton status
garlicbreath said:
Yeah, that pesky membership thing..
TO think I finally opened the envelope from like 4 years ago for my "COLORADOK5.COM" 2 foot long sticker. If you want to contact me, you can email me at [email protected]. That goes to my blackberry, would be happy to answer any questions.
For large processing of BIO D', my buddy is a reseller of the fuelmeister, so he can give you a good price. I dont personally make much bio D, since WVO is cheaper in the long run. But for BD, yes, I always washed. A water mister was was the best way I found, combined with an airstone at the bottom. THe airstones get all nasty though, so I personally dont like that method as much. The water washing does help. Check out journeytoforever.org (or is it .com?) thats where I first started out as well.
heating it I built my own heater. If your lazy, get some jacketed romex, go to home depot, buy a electric water heater element. Their like 20 bucks. I know some will say like, "2400watts at 220". Dont worry if you dont have 220, you can run it at 110, it just doesnt give you quite 1200 (more like 1000, but who's counting). Drop it into a metal container (no plastic!!!). If you want to get all fancy, you can build a small metal shield around it for plastic tank use. You can also weld a bung into a 55 gallon drum at the bottom if you like. The bungs are also avaliable in home depot.
Make sure before you convert the drum, use a high quality drum, not cheap made in china ones. Those metals are WAY too thin. Also, the acutal methanol /BD conversion should be done in a plastic container, not metal- the metal corrodes over time.
De watering is a big thing for some people, I havent personalyl had much issue with it though. If you heat it up enough, the water will de-bond from the oil.
Curious, how are you filtering? I currently use the fiberglass corse filters, (20-60 microns, it varies, always double up) followed by FL1A, then by a 10 micron CAT filter. My oil is very clean though, it looks even usable for cooking, and its golden brown, no animal fat.
garlicbreath
1/2 ton status
I am not filtering yet, still looking at the whole process.
I bought a powerstroke utility truck with a full hydraulic setup on it, with an engine driven pump.
My plan is to filter on the truck, when I get the oil, using said pump to push it through a custom filter with replaceable screens.
I figure the hydraulic pump might have enough power to push room temp wvo through the filters.
I will probably convert the truck to a 2 tank setup so I can run wvo wherever I am with the on board filters,
and setup a processor at home to get used to bio.
I bought a powerstroke utility truck with a full hydraulic setup on it, with an engine driven pump.
My plan is to filter on the truck, when I get the oil, using said pump to push it through a custom filter with replaceable screens.
I figure the hydraulic pump might have enough power to push room temp wvo through the filters.
I will probably convert the truck to a 2 tank setup so I can run wvo wherever I am with the on board filters,
and setup a processor at home to get used to bio.
OK, I hate to nitpick in the middle of a good discussion, but maybe this will help somebody out. If the heater is 2400W @220VAC, it would only make about 600W on 110VAC. From Ohm's law P=V^2/R.Pookster said:
Back to the topic, does anybody have an all "on-board" setup for filtering/cleaning WVO? All I ever hear about are barrels, filters and pumps in a garage, but what about a long road trip?
Big91RustyBucket
1/2 ton status
Blue85 said:
Who's couting anyway's? lol
