mostwanted
1/2 ton status
I think a couple hundred sounds fair accordding to what you have in them. I am hopeing that I will be able to sell mine when I am ready. I won't need 'em around here no more.
CK5
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Who runs 4" of bs w/ a 14ff/10b? **pics** pg. 3, they came!
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
Ok, so Summit is super cool...instead of just saying oh well and back ordering the rims they sent three out of Nevada and the other out of Utah...so although I don't have them all I did get 3 of the 4 rims on Friday!
I took the axles to work with me and used the steamer/pressure washer and it got all the gunk off of them. I still need to finish grinding off some of the surface rust but 30 years of built-up grease and grime is gone.
So some time w/ the
before paint and it'll be fine.
They slide right over the 14ff w/ no problems like you all said...they are close but they do fit.
They almost make it over the caliper on the front...literally just a quick couple swipes w/ the grinder and they'll be fine.
You can see where they hit on the caliper...its the light up area then right below it....
I also went to Full Throttle Suspension and picked up new u-bolts...he is a very cool guy and had them in stock so I didn't even have to wait for them to be made.
He got me the 4 for the rear and they have about 5" of extra thread incase I want to add a zero rate or something while I'm putting them in. He also had the four for the front (three of one size and one of another to fit around the pumpkin) so that was nice.
That and I got to drool over their rides, lol. Their two current shop "trucks" are the one on the site...
and a brand new Caddy they did w/ something stupid like 18" of lift...its clearing 40's and makes them look tiny.
ok, anyway back to my truck....
One of the drums on the 14ff won't spin and I don't know if its because the parking brake is pulled and the spring is busted because it won't pull itself back out or what, so I have to pull that side apart and check it out. Any advise or pointers to a tutorial "taking apart a 14ff brake assembly for dummies"?
Ok, then on the front I noticed that the driver's side is hung up...its still spins but its grabbing a little...is it possible that its seized or will it let loose after I get it in and hook the lines up, bleed, etc.?
-Avery
I took the axles to work with me and used the steamer/pressure washer and it got all the gunk off of them. I still need to finish grinding off some of the surface rust but 30 years of built-up grease and grime is gone.
So some time w/ the
before paint and it'll be fine.
They slide right over the 14ff w/ no problems like you all said...they are close but they do fit.
They almost make it over the caliper on the front...literally just a quick couple swipes w/ the grinder and they'll be fine.
You can see where they hit on the caliper...its the light up area then right below it....
I also went to Full Throttle Suspension and picked up new u-bolts...he is a very cool guy and had them in stock so I didn't even have to wait for them to be made.
He got me the 4 for the rear and they have about 5" of extra thread incase I want to add a zero rate or something while I'm putting them in. He also had the four for the front (three of one size and one of another to fit around the pumpkin) so that was nice.
That and I got to drool over their rides, lol. Their two current shop "trucks" are the one on the site...
and a brand new Caddy they did w/ something stupid like 18" of lift...its clearing 40's and makes them look tiny.
ok, anyway back to my truck....
One of the drums on the 14ff won't spin and I don't know if its because the parking brake is pulled and the spring is busted because it won't pull itself back out or what, so I have to pull that side apart and check it out. Any advise or pointers to a tutorial "taking apart a 14ff brake assembly for dummies"?
Ok, then on the front I noticed that the driver's side is hung up...its still spins but its grabbing a little...is it possible that its seized or will it let loose after I get it in and hook the lines up, bleed, etc.?
-Avery
y5mgisi
1 ton status
*disclaimer-This is from my experiance only. I have no science to back anything up nor do i advise doing anything that i say. Do not take anything that i say as a "that guy said it so it has to be true" type of deal. I realize that it wasnt a "smart" move on my part-disclaimer*
On the reuse of u-bolts. FWIW I put rear u- bolts on my 90 3/4 ton burb that came from a 1/2 ton blazer and had been used on the blazer "hard core" for a number of years including jumps at the dunes. I did some pretty gnarly stuff and hauled some pretty heavy loads with those u-bolts after id installed them on the burb. I re tightened them once about 50 miles after the install and checked them periodicly after that. they were never loose and showed no signes of fatigue. U-bolts as far as i know are not a torque to yeild setup. So i think that in theory they should be able to retorque without any issues. I would seriously like to see why it is that everyone says not to reuse them, other than a "well i heard thats not a good idea". Anyway i dont want to turn this into an argument thread. So I do have somthing To add about the questions that were asked. As for the rear end. you must firs remove the 8 bolts that hold the axel shaft to the hub. After that there wil be a pair of nuts that you need like a 2 3/8" socket for. after that the hub and drum assembly should slide off the spindle. On the front i wouldent wory about it as loong as they arnt STUCK if they are just hard to turn i wouldnt worry about it a bit they should come right to life with a quick trip around the block.
On the reuse of u-bolts. FWIW I put rear u- bolts on my 90 3/4 ton burb that came from a 1/2 ton blazer and had been used on the blazer "hard core" for a number of years including jumps at the dunes. I did some pretty gnarly stuff and hauled some pretty heavy loads with those u-bolts after id installed them on the burb. I re tightened them once about 50 miles after the install and checked them periodicly after that. they were never loose and showed no signes of fatigue. U-bolts as far as i know are not a torque to yeild setup. So i think that in theory they should be able to retorque without any issues. I would seriously like to see why it is that everyone says not to reuse them, other than a "well i heard thats not a good idea". Anyway i dont want to turn this into an argument thread. So I do have somthing To add about the questions that were asked. As for the rear end. you must firs remove the 8 bolts that hold the axel shaft to the hub. After that there wil be a pair of nuts that you need like a 2 3/8" socket for. after that the hub and drum assembly should slide off the spindle. On the front i wouldent wory about it as loong as they arnt STUCK if they are just hard to turn i wouldnt worry about it a bit they should come right to life with a quick trip around the block.
No what I was saying is that I'm still going back and forth between adding a zero rate to the front and a 1" taller spring perch in the back...
So if I decide to go that route then I'll have enough length. If not then I'm still fine.
-Avery
So if I decide to go that route then I'll have enough length. If not then I'm still fine.
-Avery
y5mgisi
1 ton status
word.
Avery4jc said:
And my point is use have to loosen and re-tighten them, same thing as re using them.
Truth be told youll prolly be ok but ubolts are made to stretch...once the are installed and they are stretched they are never the same....
and again I will say...I am thinking about adding a zero rate to the front and a 1" taller spring perch to the back before I put the new axles in.79k20350 said:
Oh yeah and Jim, my dad told me to do that but I didn't believe him. So just get a BFH and smash the drum on one side to try and spin it? Or just hit it in general and hope it breaks loose?
-Avery
I some how overlooked that the first time through...y5mgisi said:
Thanks, so take off the bolts and what about that clip? Just use some pliers and move those tabs back straight? Then things should start to come apart?
Oh and yeah I can spin the front by hand but it just hangs up a little...the pads are in good shape so I didn't really want to take anything apart right now. I'd rather spend my time on the rear since it seems to need the most help and it obviously takes the most time to get to stuff.
-Avery
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
when something is rusted too, and you use a hammer its the vibration that breaks the rust not the pounding of the hammer its the vibration of the pounding of the hammer that will break it loose. i've found on big size nuts that are froze put a bfh on 1 side of the nut and use a ballpeen on the other side oppisite it and use moderate force ,but be pretty quick with the repeat strokes and make the nut and bolt set up a vibration for a min or 2 and you will find that it helps break alot of stuff aloose that and pb blaster or kroil oil(aircraft pen. oil)(if you can find it). i've found that kroil oil isn't found very much down south but up north it's in the stores, around here they never even heard of it. orange can , nope never seen it or heard of it, good stuff but blaster will climb up threads against gravity haven't figured that out yet?
blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
oh yea what bs did you wind up with?4'' or 3.5''?
NEK5
3/4 ton status
psssttt his name`s DaveAvery4jc said:
....yea just take the BFH and whack the sides a few times, go around entire drum, then try and spin it
mostwanted
1/2 ton status
BIGBLAZE433 said:psssttt his name`s Dave
Thanks Ben
Sorry Dave
Good advice blazin blazer
4"
-Avery
Sorry Dave
Good advice blazin blazer
4"
-Avery
NEK5
3/4 ton status
Avery4jc said:
Youll need a special socket for the 14 wheelbearing nut, and you can get one that does both the front and the back at autozone for arround 20 bucks. While your at autozone, pick up new wheel cylinders for the 14, and new springs wouldn't hurt as well. Dont just use the bfh trick. Do it right and take the drum/hub off. Get lots of penitration lube, and spray it on the wheel cylinder to loosen up the pad/ drum.
jekquistk5 said:
ok, so is it a specific size (i.e. 2 1/2", etc.) or is it just "a socket for a 14ff wheel bearing nut"?
Also does anyone know what I'm talking about w/ those little clips...they sit on the front of the hub inside the circle of bolts.
-Avery
