Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MTMike, Apr 3, 2005.
This is what happens when the PO corrects for 12" of suspension lift w/out going with crossover:
From that pic it looks like both the DLE are parallel to each other which is correct. Maybe it is just the angle of that pic and they really aren't parallel but it sure looks like they are.
not too bad, I've seen worse.
A raised steering arm plus a steering arm block, plus a drop draglink? Good grief!!!!!
huh...good eye, I didn't even see the sterring block.
At least the brake lines are pulled as tight as a cats tail in a rocking chair factory!!
Now, now, I had the same setup on my blazer and it was perfectly fine. I have seen some screwed up steerings and hack jobs, but thats the correct way to correct it and works fine.
I currently have push/pull on my k5, on the street it is ok, offroad totally sucks. It is quite flexy and when flexed it goes where it wants, better have it pointed where you want to go before stuffing the tire.
I had that setup.... took 20 feet to turn left and 30 to turn right...
actually if you buy a 12 in kit( superlift anyway) that is what it comes with. I bought a burb from a guy that had this on it. It is a crappy set up IMO. It would push the springs back and forth before turning the tire, had 44 boggers which didn't help. And like captaininsano said..better have it pointed where you want it when off-road.
Yeah, I assumed thats what came w/ the 12" kit. It's HORRIBLE... like Rootbreaker said, it takes forever to turn. In my case, it takes 30' to turn right (just 90* turn, not a full circle) and 50' to turn left.
Why is it so "horrible"? I dont get it. My blazer turned fine with it, I could turn it with my pinky. Didnt really notice a difference after crossover, execpt the crossover was alittle harder to steer. That was with 42's.
your draglink was too short. could've adjusted it, and it would have turned equally both ways. still a crappy setup altogether though.
Well, for one, that steering arm has been heated up and bent. A normal raised steering arm is only about half that.
Next, normal people would buy the drop pitman arm/offset draglink/raised steering arm setup to get enough steering correction... then stop there The block under the steering arm is kind of silly. There is already a boatload of stress on that upper balljoint.
looks about the same as mine, i think the block just makes it look like its taller than it is.
Isn't the tie rod hole supposed to be parallel with the studs going into the knuckle?
I totally had that problem after wheelin once in Reno moonrocks. We got back to the parking garage (yup fit barely!) and I had to go around the wrong way because I could not turn left! Well I could but it took like a city block to do so. I think the mount of the steering box is bending or something, have not figured it out, not really worried, ram soon!
There is a dropped pitman arm thrown in there too...
BINGO! Look at the ripple in that arm... Somebody torched it to make it fit.
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