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why 3X the price??

stumpbuster

1/2 ton status
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Jul 17, 2009
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farmington, Ct
ordered a steering block for my dana 60, skyjacker makes it for $160 dollars.

found one after i ordered it from rough country for $52!!

why three times the price??
i understand give or take 10 or 15 bux, but daaaaamn:confused:

i cancelled my order and bought the rough country one ...OBVIOUSLY

alls it is is a big block of freagin steel with some studs...

any ideas???
 
I'm experiencing the same thing right now w/crossover parts for the 60. found the arm anywhere from 200 bucks down to 50 bucks for the same ****ing part.
Obviously, I went with the latter as I would like to spend my money on a spool.
 
The block I have no idea, but probably the material its made from, and how it is made.

The steering arms from what I have seen the "cheap" ones usually do not have the machined correction for the TRE angles. The arms are just flat steel which usually leaves your TRE at almost max angle at ride height.

From ORD
You'll notice from the picture below that the ORD steering arm is cut on an angle where the tie rod end seats. This is to correct for the kingpin axis inclination angle and keep the angle on the rod end minimized for best life of the joint and more vertical wheel travel without steering bind. We've attempted crossover steering systems using arms that aren't built with the angled end and the rod end was maxed out at ride height with no droop available at all. This is an essential feature for a properly built fully functional system.

D60armendview.JPG



Good, but more $$ Beefy and angle correction milled in.

standardarm1.JPG



Less $$ No angle correction, and kinda thin compared to others.

offsetsingle.jpg
 
The block from superlift with studs was in the 40-50.00 range....

When i did crossover the arm if i remember right was cheapest from shakerbuilt, which doesnt have correction like said above but so far so good for me, even flexed its not maxed. But to have it milled isnt much tho either. My arm is 7/8 thick. I think they do make tho tie rods that do achieve hard angles, flaming river did make them.
 
yea i git all that...

its obvious the difference.

the steering arm raised "BLOCK" for push/pull steer set up is JUST A BLOCK OF STEEL. ranging from 52 bux to 160 bux. thats my point. no geometry/material/size difference at all..
 
Does one kit include studs and tapered nuts? Not that the price difference would make up for studs vs no studs, but studs would add some cost. I think the ARP studs are $50 or so for those blocks? From what I've read they are cylinder head studs, not sure of what application, or accuracy of the info.
 
Does one kit include studs and tapered nuts? Not that the price difference would make up for studs vs no studs, but studs would add some cost. I think the ARP studs are $50 or so for those blocks? From what I've read they are cylinder head studs, not sure of what application, or accuracy of the info.


comes with studs.

not sure why everything for a dana 60 is STUDS anyways...
why not just gr8 bolts??
 
wouldn't be an issue if those studs didn't give you a run for your money... i've heard that skyjacker also farts on their parts right before they go out so not only are you overpaying for the part, you're also touching their fart... welp.. think i'll hit the ole dusty trail..
 
wouldn't be an issue if those studs didn't give you a run for your money... i've heard that skyjacker also farts on their parts right before they go out so not only are you overpaying for the part, you're also touching their fart... welp.. think i'll hit the ole dusty trail..


thanks for making me laugh so hard while eating luch that im now wiping off ravioli remnence from my computer screen:doah:
 
Bottom line is overhead. Also with some companys you have a minium price you can advertise. On some of our products I can advertise the price I can sell it for and on others I can only advertise the MSRP or what they say I can advertise it at. If I have to advertise the MSRP I will let everybody know to call or pm for the actual price and on some products that is a big difference. We just ran into that yesterday with a special we were running, we advertised a price and we got told to take the pricing down because it was to cheap. You also have to look at volume. If I sell 20 a month of a certain product vs 1 or 2 I can usually buy it cheaper and pass the savings on. Also with some products we have to have a certain volume per month and usually that is a money value, so in those cases we discount pretty good to make the sales and make the monthly minimum. We are fortunate at Adventurous in that we don't have a lot of overhead and can pass the savings to our customers. I will say we are not perfect and do make mistakes and we will do what we need to do to fix it. I just did that today on a shifter. Also if we miss a quote and you don't hear back from us don't be shy, let us know either via pm or a phone call. In the last week I bet we did over 100 quotes between message boards and phone calls so things do get missed.
 
I'm experiencing the same thing right now w/crossover parts for the 60. found the arm anywhere from 200 bucks down to 50 bucks for the same ****ing part.
Obviously, I went with the latter as I would like to spend my money on a spool.

Mine is not drilled, you can be sure that i will have it down to my machinist (at work) I'm going to have them bevel both sides by about 12 degrees and drill the .750 hole at that angle also. I'm sure it won't be more then 20 bucks(from past experience)
 
On steering arms you need to be carefull. I have seen plenty of bent ones. I replaced one on the Bronco that was bent to the point the taper on the end was twisted in the other direction. That was after 4 years of abuse with full hydro but it was a $200 arm. We have a Sky arm on it now and it is doing fine so far. I have been running a Sky arm on the K5 for several years with no problem.
 
sould of purchased my droped pitman arm and bolted it on and went driving. lot less work than installing a crapy steering block. never liked my block i had sold it and went drop arm better.
 
sould of purchased my droped pitman arm and bolted it on and went driving. lot less work than installing a crapy steering block. never liked my block i had sold it and went drop arm better.

that would be great, but i think for my 8" suspension that i SHOULD use both raised block and drop arm, or that is what i was told..
 
you sir need crossover kit with 2wd box to swap on. :eek1:

i coudnt agree with ya more brah:smokin2:

i just got done dumpin too much into my 1ton swap though, crossover was in the budget from the getgo, but the further i got into the swap, the quicker the money went to other stuff.

its on my list!!
.....gotta have a list.:crazy:
 

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