CK5
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why am I bouncing so much?

I’m trying to picture this in my head on the front but I can’t, I will have to lay under my truck and visualize it.
 
Ok, whatcha got? Any design ideas for a front traction bar? I've never seen one on a front of a leaf sprung Chevy (early Toyotas had one).
I know Rori Irish put one on his squarebody tow truck, but I haven't been able to find the video where they talked about it yet. I'm going to be in Moab the middle of the month, so if I don't find something before that, maybe I'll be able to run by his shop and get some pics.
 
I know Rori Irish put one on his squarebody tow truck, but I haven't been able to find the video where they talked about it yet. I'm going to be in Moab the middle of the month, so if I don't find something before that, maybe I'll be able to run by his shop and get some pics.
Someone needs to get him a membership here. But I also know he’s to busy. Would love to see him at the “bbq” if we ever have another.
 
Front traction bar is tough to do and at some point, the question that 'noosh brought up is valid. That said, Beck Herring is a guy that worked for us a few years 20-ish years back and built an S10 that was actually my dad and brother's at various points. He built a 2 link above the front springs with bars running forward to what would be the body mount area on our trucks. He has pics on the 'gram if you care to search it out. These trucks probably don't have the real estate and especially with a set of good springs (ours) that have decent travel.

I played most of these games in the late 90s. Custom springs with stock steering and it wouldn't steer. Custom springs and crossover but steering isn't precise. Custom springs with panhard and steering is precise but I did weird stuff to try to make the panhard not kill things and still had a hard time keeping brackets intact. Custom springs with white bodies were OK but good shocks were better so even better shocks get even better, right? In the end, coilovers were the answer and even after that we've gone through multiple iterations of link layout to get to where we are. Feel free to discover the answers on your own but you're going to meet me here in the end.

Don't give up on the K5 wheelbase too quick. I know the ramcharger guys have seen big performance increases with big stretches but they're also generally pretty top heavy. Start with the basics and keep it light and especially LOW. Stretch it where you can meaning a couple inches front forward and all the rear back you can easily afford before you get super carried away. The low and light thing can extend to being careful with tire size also. Big ones have their place but they do raise the CG, much like other good things in life.

As I say this we all have to keep in mind that I also lust after a 115"-ish K5 with a little less than factory overhang and a top to match the body length. There have been a good number of custom pre-runner broncos built along these lines and the proportions can be a little weird but they work.
 
@Stephen I believe the IG page is "beck.fab", there's S10 and K5 pics. I found a couple of pics with a bar running between the u-bolt plate and front spring hanger.
 
I would say if you want to hold off on a link suspension just try messing with the little things like shocks, shackles, and tire pressure. Maybe even play around with how you're driving different obstacles and see if you can find something that works better. It might never be ideal, but it could results it some improvements. Maybe even lower gearing could help.
 
Someone needs to get him a membership here. But I also know he’s to busy. Would love to see him at the “bbq” if we ever have another.
He used to stop by.

In the end, coilovers were the answer and even after that we've gone through multiple iterations of link layout to get to where we are. Feel free to discover the answers on your own but you're going to meet me here in the end.
This is where I started, after running through the desert for years on coilovers on buggies, 2wd trucks and motorcycles.

Maybe even play around with how you're driving different obstacles and see if you can find something that works better.
The faster you go, the smoother it gets.:D
 
Early Toyota 4wds (78-83?) had what looked like a dog bone from an axle housing bracket going forward to something under the core support area.
 
Doesn't the BYT have a body lift? Maybe eliminating it would bring down the COG. My guess is you would have to re-engineer your sliders and bumpers though.
It does, and I wish it didn't. Unfortunately, you are right in that it would take a lot of re-engineering to remove it. I'm stuck with it for now. I'll just have to see what else I can do to lower the COG.
 
@cheavyk10 you know, depending how you look at it, with 2 blazers with the fenders at the same height, my frame is actually lower. So in one sense my body lift is really a frame lower kit, so it helps my COG. :cool:

:whistle:
 
I think bigger tires are the answer. 44s should really help. That would also help the COG with added tire weight.

Wait that's counter to my lower gearing suggestion. So add a gear swap in there too.

And really I'm only half joking as both would be awesome upgrades.
 
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