CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Why did cadillac use double, double carden joints on their drive lines?

Picking my mind on how u joint drive shafts work, for ours to run smooth, the top and bottom (axle to shaft and shaft to xfer case) angles have to be the same.

With the double cardigan, im not sure it would matter.

I looked it up, but this is what I found.
Double-breasted-cardigan-for-l-5850991.jpg
:confused:
 
haha,


Back on shafts,

Now i would realy like to know why its not buildable. our drive shaft shop o normaly builds anything
 
That'd be cool if they're rebuildable. I have one at the shop some place. Anybody got the spicer part numbers? I've never been able to find anything for them. Was straight up told be another drive shaft shop that they are not rebuildable.
 
Really am thinking of using it in my Suburban. Just need to buy a flange for axle end and have it lengthened or shortened. Who knows, it may just bolt right up:dunno:
 
Andif anyone wants measurements or to see if i can find part numbers on any of the stuff let me know. From quick looks, one end looks just like our front drivelines where they bolt to the t-case. and the other end is just a cv version of our slide in yolks.
 
The angles don't have to match. Each end maintains Constant Velocity, so it doesn't matter what the other end is doing. The drawback will be the amount of angle each joint can take. I think as long as the angle at the pinion is less than the angle at the T-case, you're OK.
 
I just sold the 500 Caddy engine & TH400 I had in my shed 10 years ,back to the guy who I got it from--I had the same driveshaft too,the drivetrain was from a 76 Coupe De Vlle--I always wondered why no one had tried using a shaft like these in a lifted 4x4 ...as for them not being "rebuildable" I think the only thing that would prevent you from rebuilding one,is if the stub that rides in the ball can wear down,to restore it would require spray welding it back up oversize and then turn it down on a lathe to the right diameter--perhaps a bushing could be used instead?...

One thing about driveshafts--ever since junkyards started using forkloaders,its dam near impossible to find one thats not kinked in half any more!...usually you end up buying a new one for a kings ramsom,or taking the muckled remains of the junkyard one to a driveline shop to be re-tubed..the last junkyard around here that removed driveshafts before lifting the vehicle off a ramp truck with the loader and saved them is now clearing out all their "old" stuff,including the stacks of driveshafts piled up like cord wood behind the office trailer...I lucked out and found one for my '81 G-10 van there many years ago,when I discovered mine was dented..good luck finding one any good around here any more since though--you practically have to buy a whole truck just to get one,before it gets near the junkyard if you cant afford a new or retubed one!..
 
Are caddys rear diff centered? 2 double carden CV's would allow for 2 directions of angle. I have seen 2 used on some sort of implement but I cant remember what it was, Im thinking it was a brush hog or maybe a post hole auger.
 
They might not be prefectly centered but they are very very close if not. My guess was that they were just looking for smoothest possible operation at both, 100+mph and taking off quick from a stop light.
 
If the angle wasn't too big, a standard u-joint could work for an offset diff, as well.

The dual CV would work where clearance didn't allow you to have close to 0* at either end.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom