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Why Do My DriveShafts Still Rub???

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19Blaze82

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I Did a 4" Procomp Lift Springs in front, Blocks in rear, I got the Extended stainless lines and 33x12.5x15 Tires. After that My Drive shafts angles were pretty bad and It started to pop. So I got an X-fer case lowering kit, That fixed my Angle but now my Front Drive shaft rubs on the cross member. Why??
 
When you drop the tcase, it improves the rear angle but increases the front so your front shaft angle is worse now than before.

Also since the tcase mounts bolt to the crossmember both the tcase and crossmember drop together. There is no change in the relationship or distance between the two.
 
with only 4" of lift, there shouldn't be any if at all rubbing. you can clearance the front driveshaft of the nubs in the cv joint.can you take pics of the areas that are rubbing.
 
I agree, 4" lift should be no problem.

Are you sure it's rubbing the crossmember and not the exhaust crossover pipe?
 
What I would do is drop the crossmember with the 1" spacer and then space the transfer case back up by half that. It will space the transfer case away from the crossmember like you need, and also drop the rear output so you can do daily driving in 2wd with no binding/grinding
 
What shape is the tranfer case mount in? When my mount was wore out it would rub under a load sometimes.
 
Here's my experience with my '90 Blazer w/ a 700r4, NP241, and a Dodge Dana 60 front end:

I put a 4" spring lift on my truck and added a 1" EZ-inch from DIY4x to relocate my axles. My front axle was pushed forward 1.5", theoretically improving the front driveline angle. I had problems with the front driveline rubbing on my trans crossmember. Took me a while to find it, as I assumed it was in the CV.

Things I did in the process of finding that I needed to clearance my trans. crossmember:
1. clearanced the cv on the shaft.
2. tightened up the transmission mount bolts, as they were slightly loose.
3. checked that the trans. mounts were still good.
4. Finally realized, with the help of CK5, that with the bit of axle wrap you get on the front axle under load, combined with going uphill causing the suspension to unload, that the shaft was hitting the crossmember. I cut a small chunk out, and I've never had another issue with it.

Folks told me it couldn't be my crossmember, but it was. :waytogo: Look for scratches on it.
 
xenomarine said:
What I would do is drop the crossmember with the 1" spacer and then space the transfer case back up by half that. It will space the transfer case away from the crossmember like you need, and also drop the rear output so you can do daily driving in 2wd with no binding/grinding
Click to expand...
Thank you for Maybe confirming what I was thinking. Ill do that first sounds like the cheapest way to do it. I had been thinking that for a while now. I'll try that tomorrow
 
nvrenuf said:
I agree, 4" lift should be no problem.

Are you sure it's rubbing the crossmember and not the exhaust crossover pipe?
Click to expand...

It was, HAha, Its already rubbed through it. I have a massive Exhaust leak now. But that's the least of my concerns.
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
What shape is the tranfer case mount in? When my mount was wore out it would rub under a load sometimes.
Click to expand...

I just did my Clutch about 3 months ago. In the process since all of it was out I replaced the Uppers and Lower Mounts. I broke the Transfer case Adapter too So that was a big reason to do the clutch while I was under there. But I drove around with a Bad Xfer case adapter for about 6 months. And in the process I did break The passenger side Mount. Or at least its missing a couple bolts.
 
Well I put some 1/2" Spacers between my Xfer Case and the Crossmember. And It worked. Angles are all virtually the same, and Now there is a good 1/2" If clearance on my Crossmember.
 
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