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Why is the 208 so bad???

84CUCV

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Just going by what people tell me. Will it hold up to 38s and a diesel?

thanks mike
 

pauly383

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Don't get swap happy UNTIL you break it. It has a good low range gearing, lower than 205. With a diesel you are wheeling slower anyway, or should be. Fast driving is for cars /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 

BlazerGuy

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1. Slip yoke - this is a pain in the ass if you break the rear shaft, more expensive for a C/V joint etc
2. Aluminum case - Will probably crack like a egg if it comes down hard on a rock, so get a good skid plate.

Other than that it's a pretty good t-case...
 

fjleiter

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I'm sure someone will disagree BUT... I don't think the
208 is functionally a weak unit, majority of problems are because the case is aluminum it is more prone to physical impact damage (ie: hitting a rock and cracking the case)
as far as mechanically, you should be fine.
 

cybrfire

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Cons:

Aluminum case prone to cracking
Hangs too low
Slip yoke output

Pros:

Good low range
Lightweight
shift smooth

Fixes for the cons go like so,

Clock it up so it don't hang so low. Now you can put an even better skid plate under it so you don't crack the aluminum housing.

Convert the slip yoke output with Dodge 208 parts.

The military used them for years behind a 400 tranny. They must be good for something. I'm keeping mine.
 

BadDog

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I have only 2 problems with 208 or 241 (and similar).

1) They are very vulnerable. They tend to hang way down and the case is aluminum. One good whack and your getting towed home.

2) The slip yokes. Eliminator will fix that, but they are not cheap.

Address those 2 problems and they are great cases. I’ve got a 241 in my moderate duty 1 ton K5 and I would not even consider changing it. Same for the 700R4. They make an almost perfect combo for moderate wheeling. But would I run them in my truggy? Not on a bet…
 

rjfguitar

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I think the 208 is a good case and I don't think I need to repeat the pro's and con's. I however think the 241 is a good upgrade if you can get one in good shape and is an 89' case but if you have a 208 in excellent shape than I wouldn't bother swapping. AS far as your diesel..what is it? The dodge ISB cummins has an HD version 241 behind it and no one that I know has had a prob with it, even running nearly 600HP and 1,000-1,300 ft pounds of torque. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif
 

84_Chevy_K10

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I just sold an NP 208 to a guy yesterday for $300. In his case, the high cost of replacing the entire case when the chain snaps and eats up the inside aluminum is a major con for the 208.

That said, I beat the piss out of my truck with that particular 208 in it and never had any transfer case related issues.
 

BlazerGuy

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Turning the t-case until it's tucked up more in the frame. The idea is trying to get a flatter belly and less t-case hanging down...
 

fatboy

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what does that do to the front drive shaft then? Will it need to be replaced with a longer one?
 

BadDog

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Sometimes it does, just like a lift. Also, it may cause angular problems requiring modification of the CV or a new high angle unit.
 

bigyellowjimmy

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[ QUOTE ]
what is so bad about a slip yoke?
and is there any good to them?


[/ QUOTE ]

The problem is that if you have driveshaft/u jt failure you cannot remove the shaft without losing trans case fluid. With a fixed yoke you can remove the d shaft, repair it or drive it in front wheel drive. The good thing about it is that the slip yoke is internal, inside the trans case and lasts MUCH longer normally than a slip yoke on the d shaft that gets contaminated with dirt or water. Also the d shaft is better balanced for high speed driving since it has less mass. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 

CHEVY 4WD

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I always knew that that was a plus to a fixed yoke but never thought it was really that great of a thing... so thats the only advantage of a fixed yoke? one isnet any "stronger" then the other?
 

imiceman44

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[ QUOTE ]
I always knew that that was a plus to a fixed yoke but never thought it was really that great of a thing... so thats the only advantage of a fixed yoke? one isnet any "stronger" then the other?

[/ QUOTE ]

Well to clarify a little more:
The slip yoke is continuously lubricated by the ATF so the slip part last longer but since the factory had the yoke drilled on the sides for the plastic injection to hold the caps of the U joints, that weekens the ears and that usually is where they break.
Another thing about the slip yokes is that on stock vehicles the yoke is almost inline with the driveshaft and the tranny output so the slipping is without binding, when you lift it, the angles become extreme and now your yoke wants to bend up intead of slipping in which puts stress on the output shaft and I ahve seen some bent.
The fixed yoke driveshaft with slip joints in them the slip is always in line with the motion, no matter what angle the driveshaft is at.
/forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
 

Steve_87K5

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a piece of thin wall pipe with the end welded shut is handy when you want to drive on front shaft only. Weld a small bracket on it so you can attach to tail housing with radiator clamp.
 

84_Chevy_K10

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[ QUOTE ]
a piece of thin wall pipe with the end welded shut is handy when you want to drive on front shaft only. Weld a small bracket on it so you can attach to tail housing with radiator clamp.

[/ QUOTE ]

So is an extra slip yoke. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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