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Why is this engine pissing oil?

K5Nate

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Ok so I only know basics on engines. I have done 2 rebuilds by the book with good results. Numerous tear downs, gasket replacements, know what goes where and how the powertrain works but am poor when it comes to diagnostics. I am hoping you engine savvy guys can clue me in as to what problem is going on here.

Ok so I had a 350 long block I got for $100. I know the guy I got it form and remember it running in his truck before he sold it to me, there weren't internal problems. Trying to be on the cheap I installed http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BBC100/KitComboContents/ Cam Advertised Duration 282/282, Lift .465/.465

Everything was running fine for awhile. One day all of the sudden, when the motor was cold and I was excited, I pressed the skinny pedal a little too far, 4500rpm maybe, dumb I know. Truck was still on jack stands at this point.

The oil filter O-ring blew out. Filter was brand new K&N. I stopped the truck immediately. It pissed, more like hemorrhaged, out probably 1.5-2 quarts of oil in like 2 seconds before I stopped it. Pulled the filter, the ring was intact, it had only jumped the lip it sits in. Reinstalled with the same results. Purchased new $4 Fram and got the same results.

Like I said in the beginning I don't really know how the oil bypass valve:confused: works or what the problem could be. What should I start looking for? The engine is now out of the truck.
 
it shouldn't matter which way the filter bypass hole faces....the filter is the same all the way around.

Was that filter the original after doing the cam swap?
Did you use a bunch of moly paste or something thick that would clog up the filter? What weight oil?
Is there any oil restrictors in the engine?
 
Did you make sure there was NOT a 2nd o-ring? I've seen oil filters blow completely off from that.

x2 on that.

changed the oil on my moms Expedition years back
was working quick and not paying attention.

when i went to fire it back up after the change, oil went everywhere, leaked like a seive so i shut it off quick.

i was dumbfounded so i pulled it back off.

sure nuff..

the old oil filter o-ring stuck in place on the oil filter plate on the block..
and the 2 o-rings stacked together didnt much seal too well.
 
it shouldn't matter which way the filter bypass hole faces....the filter is the same all the way around.

Was that filter the original after doing the cam swap?
Did you use a bunch of moly paste or something thick that would clog up the filter? What weight oil?
Is there any oil restrictors in the engine?

I understand about the filter being the same all the way around, thus has nothing to do with the bypass. :D

I used all the assembly lube provided, broke the cam in as recommended by Summit, changed oil and new K&N.

No I put the new K&N on after the swap with new 10W30 before and after breaking in the cam.

no oil restricting devices.

The filter(s) were never too tight or too loose!

Here are the parts as I have removed them:

New FRAM, there is only 1 seal
SAM_0379.jpg

Clean Filter Seat
SAM_0378.jpg

Oil bypass and thread
SAM_0380-1.jpg

can't see anything yet
SAM_0381.jpg

Time to dig deeper??? During the cam break in I had zero problems.
 
In the 2nd pic, did you already remove one of the filter adaptor bolts? There is supposed to be two.
 
In the 2nd pic, did you already remove one of the filter adaptor bolts? There is supposed to be two.

Hmmmmm there was only 1 bolt when I removed it, nice to point that out. Funny you mention it because there were 2 threaded holes and I wondered what the other one was for.

Do you think that could be the problem though?
 
I would think with only one bolt there tightening the filter would pull one side down and away from the block, and not give you a good seal at the filter. It very well could be the problem...

Rene
 
Yes that might be it, causing it to not seal equally all the way around. After poking around some more, I can't find any other reason, the design is simple enough that there would have to be something quite obvious as to why this would be happening, i.e. the missing bolt. There doesn't seem to be anything blocked anywhere. Now where did that bolt go? :thinking:
 
I would think with only one bolt there tightening the filter would pull one side down and away from the block, and not give you a good seal at the filter. It very well could be the problem...

Rene

Hmm, wouldn't the oil filter actually be "loose" until it makes contact with the block?
I'm thinking this would actually seal the filter to the block, but pull one side of the adapter away from the block.

I don't think that bolt could make its way into the pan.
 
I'd think it'd still pull one side of the filter slightly off too as it's attached to that filter mount. It would only take a very small area with poor seal contact to piss oil...we're talking a few thou.

Rene
 
In pic # 2 there is an o-ring gasket stuck to block. But in later pic its gone. Did you take it off ? Or is it just a shadow ?
 
It would only take a very small area with poor seal contact to piss oil...we're talking a few thou.

Rene

Agree with that Rene....I had a van that I took to an oil change shop, and the thing ran out of oil 20 miles later.....the culprit: a stem of a leaf on the filter gasket....made a nice mess under the body and on the rear door...no wonder no one was behind me....I thought I was just outrunning them.

So It seems we aren't any further along at solving this perplexing situation....how bout getting rid of the Fram crap, and putting a tall Wix in there and see what happens?

did you inspect the old filters by chance to see what they looked like inside the filter media. I'm thinking maybe some got dislodged and is stuck in the oil passage somewhere....Can you see up into the passage above the filter?

SA110_SB9_1_5.gif


The oil filter adapter contains a fiber-disk and spring bypass valve. Make sure everything is clean and that the valve is positioned correctly in the housing (arrow).
 
on top of 1 bolt only for a 2 bolt hold down . i would also install a new adaptor/bypass as this one has been stressed and streched .

might not seal or be cracked even by now.

but yes 2 bolts hold that on.

could be as simple as it had a factory oil cooler on it and he kept it and had 1 bolt to hold on the adaptor and never told you. :doah:
 
Agree with that Rene....I had a van that I took to an oil change shop, and the thing ran out of oil 20 miles later.....the culprit: a stem of a leaf on the filter gasket....made a nice mess under the body and on the rear door...no wonder no one was behind me....I thought I was just outrunning them.

So It seems we aren't any further along at solving this perplexing situation....how bout getting rid of the Fram crap, and putting a tall Wix in there and see what happens?

did you inspect the old filters by chance to see what they looked like inside the filter media. I'm thinking maybe some got dislodged and is stuck in the oil passage somewhere....Can you see up into the passage above the filter?

SA110_SB9_1_5.gif


The oil filter adapter contains a fiber-disk and spring bypass valve. Make sure everything is clean and that the valve is positioned correctly in the housing (arrow).

:haha::haha::haha:The Fram was only for a test to rule the previous filter o ring out as the culprit. So yeah with all being said I am not sure we have found the exact root of the issue here. Yeah, i looked into all the passageways, the all seem clear. I tossed the original filter, and the Fram seemed good inside. It seems right though that as the filter made contact with the block that it would probably seat itself flush upon being threaded on correctly.
 
I thought the bolts go into the oil galleys. At least one of them does. Put a bolt in and new filter and try it.
 
I thought the bolts go into the oil galleys. At least one of them does. Put a bolt in and new filter and try it.

Yeah...at least try the simple fix first. I wouldn't be surprised if that was the whole problem.

Rene
 
Probably the lost bolt was the problem, however I would use a Delco ( OEM ) oil fitler. Maybe the Fram filter used a thinner guage ( steel ) sealing plate and flexed under the high initial pressure. This could cause the oil eruption.
 
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