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colbystephens

colbystephens

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OK, so I've been wondering why we don't see anyone running a cheap version of cross over steering that has a draglink connect to the tie rod like on Jeeps and such. Obviously this puts the steering connections in a vulnerable place, but it seems like a viable option to save some coin if someone wanted to go that route. You'd just need the 2wd box, the drag link, and a custom tie rod. It would cut out the necessity of having flat top knuckles machined and the steering arm for the passenger side.

So, why don't people do this?
 
Downward angular stress on the tie rod, worse than ideal drag link angle, and weaker tie rod...three off the top of my head.

Some Jeeps (I think) came that way stock.

Rene
 
buefchris is running a highsteer set up that way i know there are down falls but its better than push pull my .02.
all negetives posted are true and i agree with them but if tires and lift are kept small should be no worries.
ford came this way also my bronco is set up this way. think the 150 maybe 250 also
 
yeah, i definitely see it as being far less effective/strong/etc than with the steering arm and what not, but it still seems like it would be better than the stock steering. i have no interest in investing money in my d44, but don't have the $$$ for a dana60 so I thought I might look into this as a cheaper alternative until i can get into a 60 w/ crossover.
 
If you do this take lots of pics, Im in the same situation as you and am considering it.
 
I understand not wanting to drop the money on flat tops and what not, but most of the investment could be recuperated down the road when you get a 60. Thinking about my friends setup on his XJ, Trusty has a point. On our trucks, I think that the downward force on the tierod would almost be as much as the horizontal steering force.
HysteerinvertedT.jpg



Looking at this(Though not a chevy) how would you attach the draglink and not hit the springs?
 
you make a good point about the leaf springs being in the way. now that I think about it, the only leaf sprung truck i've seen this on was a wagoneer, and they have spring under axle suspensions. when i've researched spring over axle conversions, they always talked about having to go to true cross over, but i didn't know why. makes sense now, tho, that the leaf springs would be in the way.

i wonder if you could make it work with having a properly bent drag link? seems like at that point that the savings might be next to nothing.... :dunno:
 
It would take a lot of stress off the passenger side knuckle, compared to a normal crossover to the top of the knuckle. Now you guys have me wondering. I guess I'm gonna have to go out and look at one of my trucks to see if it could work.:doah:
 
Colby,
I may have an extra laying around now. If I do we won't need it anymore, all 3 trucks at my house are 1 ton now.

Matt
 
ill try and get buefchris to post pic or 2 of his i know he has been running it for a couple years and i know it street and trail driven.
 
Doesn't your d44 have flattops? I thought it did.. since you have external hubs which I believe ended about the same time as flattops.. but I could be wrong or who knows what's been swapped.
 
mnstrburbon said:
ill try and get buefchris to post pic or 2 of his i know he has been running it for a couple years and i know it street and trail driven.
Click to expand...

yeah, i'd like to see it. :) thanks!

jonathon said:
Doesn't your d44 have flattops? I thought it did.. since you have external hubs which I believe ended about the same time as flattops.. but I could be wrong or who knows what's been swapped.
Click to expand...

nope, no flat tops here. i don't know when they stopped putting the external hubs on there.... but it should've been before the year of axles i own. :doah:
 
I can get a better pic tomorrow


mine uses 2 wfo steering arms, 1 tie rod with the end having a tapered tie rod end hole that the drag link ties into. The drag link is a 1.5 inch aluminum set up.

total cost is about 200 and some change for the arms, 130.00 or so for the tie rod and 130.00 or so for the drag link if done in steel. Then 65.00 for the pitman arms. so about Really the only big savings doing it yourself would be on the drag link and pitman arm, and that saving shrinks more when you have to buy 4 weld on threaded bungs at 10 bucks a pop then usually DOM is usually sold by the stick at most places and not by the foot.


here is a copy paste for his prices
"
$ 85.00 Tie-rod
$ 135.00 w/ rod ends


and

$ 75.00 Drag-link
$ 125.00 w/ rod ends"





in this pic shows the tie rod end with the hole
linkage.jpg




At anyrate, if you do buy parts/arms or a pieces i strongly reccomend wfo. Trevor is the man and has been awesome the 5-6 times I have used him. Even shipped and made something same day when I needed it asap:waytogo:

DSCN3145.JPG
 
Here are 2 pics from a while ago

IMAG0002.JPG

IMAG0004.JPG

I'm only running 4" lift and a 35"s and I have the aftermarket knuckles. Been on it since 05' [ I think?]

I got it all from BRC motorsports somewhere south of Sacramento.

IMAG0002.JPG

IMAG0004.JPG
 
Thanks Beufchris!

Kicker30 - I'm thinking that you couldn't do this type of cross over steering without going over the springs. It seems to me that your drag link would be a seriously weird shape to get it over far enough to not have much down force on the tie rod. Unless you were to connect the tie rod and drag link directly under the spring, I guess. But that doesn't seem far enough over to me. :dunno:
 
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