Wideband o2 sensor for datalogging and or replacing a stock o2...

[beastofablaze]

Is it possible? I thought I remembered someone saying you could make a wb o2 for 100 or so bucks but if that is true how do you do it and will it take the place of a stock o2? In other words ...(this might sound retarded) not standalone wb o2.

I got my aldl cable ordered and its in the mail but the wb o2 would make things SO much easier and faster.

Anybody used the lc-1 kit?

if so what do you think of it? How easy is it to be able to datalog in windaldl with the lc-1. I heard you need a patch to make it be able to datalog the 02's actual info.

Any info would be helpful.

Thank you

 

[sope]

What is a wide WIDE BAND O2 sensor?

 

[dyeager535]

Wide band O2 means it actually "measures" the air/fuel ratio at values other than stoich, which is 14.7:1. So if you really wanted to tune, you could dyno your engine, seeing if it likes 12.5:1 or 13:1 (for instance) at WOT.

Since you don't want 14.7:1 (that isn't the optimum power air/fuel ratio) all the time, it's valuable to see that you aren't running just a hair under 14.7:1 in those situations. Not only that, since you can easily run OVER 14.7:1 in situations like cruise without ill effect, it helps tune that direction as well.

I believe there was talk of the DIY WB O2 over on thirdgen.org (probably in the DIY PROM forum) so I'd say search over there.

Personally I will go heated O2 and call it good. I'll just make sure it stays under 14.7:1 under hard throttle.

 

[beastofablaze]

heh heh yeah I posted it.

A wide band kit is only another 130 bucks and WELL worth it to me. Not only can you tune your highway mode perfectly for gains of 10% better gas mileage but its just a hell of alot easier and you'll know if your motor is running dangerously lean or too rich.

The wide band seems like a good way to go and I like the kit setup.

 

[Blue85]

I'm pretty sure the cheapest and easiest thing is to get an LC-1 from Innovate. It is about $200 with the sensor included ($150 for the controller/cable, $50 for the sensor). These things have two analog outputs. One comes pre-programed to imitate a stock (Narrowband) sensor, so the ECU runs the engine as good (or better) than ever. The software for datalogging and programming it is included, as is the serial cable that goes to the laptop. The other output can be used for an A/F gauge or whatever else you want.


BTW: If I read right, this product has sort of killed the DIY WB project.

I've never used an ALDL cable. Does it allow you another analog input or do you read A/F ratio from the ECU?

 

[dyeager535]

ALDL gives you the voltage from the O2, so obviously just base it on that.

I guess with the wideband you would have a better sense of whats going on either side of stoich even with a stock setup, BUT with the slow data speed of the '747 ECM you end up with large gaps in the data, which means you could be missing something. Difference between 160 and 8192 baud is huge.

Was cost/effort the reason the DIY WB O2 project was abandoned in favor of the LC-1, or did the LC-1 sort of come out of that project in a mass-produced flavor?

 

[beastofablaze]

DIY WB huh? Is that a WB you make your own wb because I am still considering that.

But I stumbled on this little jewel today while I was over at thirdgen. Turns a slow primitive 747 into a little beast. Check it out.

http://www.dynamicefi.com/

http://www.dynamicefi.com/WudScreenshots.html

Even will make your 747 able to run 4 injectors. Either 2 2bbls or 1 4bbl. Seriously considering this thing. Datalogging is as fast and probably faster than 192 baud

 

[Blue85]

You can't build your own wideband sensor, but you could conceivably make your own WB controller. The sensor itself has a standard NB element, but it also has an "oxygen pump" which can add to or reduce the amount of oxygen present. The controller varies this pump until the sensor reads stoich and then the controller knows how far the mixture is from stoich. The relationships are very temperature dependant, so the controller also has to regulate sensor temperature with good accuracy.

The LC-1 and LM-1 take care of all this and also do calibration with the sensor, which is another non-trivial task. You could build one yourself, but it wouldn't save any money. I think the closest thing to an actual DIY WB kit is here: http://www.wbo2.com/. I don't know anything about their stuff.