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Wild cam question, plus more questions

USSkoval

USSkoval

Thornbirds look cool... Yeah, I said it
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Not long ago, the 350 in my street-driven '77 Blazer ate the camshaft. Today at the swap meet, I got a great deal on a new cam and lifter set, but I'm not entirely sure I can use it. The cam is Erson #113421. The valve lift is a mild .472, but the duration on the intake is 296 and 306 on the exhaust. What is the purpose on a long duration, but small lift?
The 350 is probably around 9:1, has lightly ported 882's (I've been told) and runs an Edelbrock Torker intake with a 670 Truck Avenger carb. Also has Flowtech headers and what seems to be a stock stall convertor. Should I even bother with this cam? Keep in mind, this Blazer only sees street time, gas milage isn't much of a concern, and I've always wanted to have a vehicle with a nice lopey idle:D
 
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The duration you listed is advertised duration, what is duration at .050" and what is the lobe seperation angle?
 
4X4HIGH said:
The duration you listed is advertised duration, what is duration at .050" and what is the lobe seperation angle?
Click to expand...

Duration at .050 is 228I and 235E. The grind is TQ50H, and has 110+4 listed below it. Is 110 the LSA?
 
USSkoval said:
Duration at .050 is 228I and 235E. The grind is TQ50H, and has 110+4 listed below it. Is 110 the LSA?
Click to expand...

That cam is more mid to top end power. The 110 is the LSA and the +4 means it is ground 4 degrees advanced so you will want to install it straight up without advancing the cam to crank timing.
 
But will it work OK, or will it be a pig to drive? I think the intake is meant for the same powerband. Tires are 33's and current gearing is 3.08, but I have a spare set of 3.42 axles. 3.73's are also a possibility.

Also, the little info I could gather on this cam says it is a small base circle cam for stroker motors, but the part number always ended with a "s". The part # on the box does not have an "s" at the end. Will it matter if the cam is indeed a small base circle?
 
The cam will work but like i said it will produce power in the mid to top end. I would guess rpm range of about 2200-5500 or so.

Rhoads lifters, you can run them if you like NOISY lifters. I once ran a set for about 5 minutes before removing them and throwing them away.
 
Nope, I certainly don't like noisy lifters, lol. I'll try the PBM's that came with the cam. Thanks for your help;)
 
OK, I have a couple more questions. What would be the expected power output with the above parts combo? And I'm guessing that a convertor with around 2500 stall would work well? B&M has the nicely priced Tork Master convertors, but not for anything over 350 HP. I don't think I would be making that much power, so it should be fine.
 
I'm guessing with mild heads, you would top out about 325. But that probably wouldn't be til 5500 or more. Don't know if those heads will support that. That lopey idle will somewhat kill the lowend though.
 
What do you do with this truck? I would at least install the 3.73s and a converter. That is a huge cam and won't be happy in your truck at all.
 
80' 427 said:
What do you do with this truck? I would at least install the 3.73s and a converter. That is a huge cam and won't be happy in your truck at all.
Click to expand...

Well, I really don't do much at all with the truck. I was driving it to and from work (50 miles round) a couple days a week just for the heck of it. I plan to repaint the truck and keep it mostly original looking, so no hard use, just some occasional camping. I had already planned to re-gear, but wasn't sure what stall to go with on the convertor. A stock K5 isn't too heavy, is it? Maybe not much heavier than a Chevelle?
 
I promise it ways much more. Add this up in your head 350lb front axle, 30lb drive shaft, 80lbs of front leaves, 75lb transfer case, plus the heavier frame and body. Its at least 4200 if not 4500lbs, a pig of a chevelle is 3500-3700.

This is what erson says about the cam

High Lift, dual pattern. Rough idle. Good mid-range & top end horsepower. Needs 4-barrel intake, headers & lower gears. OK with automatic & 3,000 rpm stall speed torque converter. 9:1 compression or more.

You need more compression, better springs and I would suggest 4.11s or even 4.56s. 3000 stall in a truck is silly. Its just not the right cam. Go buy a speedpro with 204/214 duration and .420 .443 lift it will be much better. This won't be happy crusing down the highway with a big heavy truck. Sell it to a buddy and move on.
 
OK thanks, that's what I wanted to know! I took a chance on buying the cam only because it was dirt cheap. I thought it might work out OK because it's not a very high lift, oh well:crazy:
 
Duration @ .050" and LSA are the things to look for when comparing cams. Lift has little to do with anything as far as charctaristics of the cam.
 
A new hydraulic cam doesn't cost that much.You should stay away from erson cams period.I bought a few,I know.The most important number is the intake degrees at .050. lower # lower power for starting off.Your best cam will have the least amount of degrees when subtracting .050 duration from advertised duration.The less gearing you have,the less duration you want.
 
I realize that a new cam does not cost very much, but like I said, I got a deal on it. And I'm cheap:D
I will probably keep the cam around just in case I can use it sometime. Maybe the 4.3 in my S10 will die and I can use it in a spare 350 I have. Might be a little too much power for the NV3500 though.

As for the Blazer, I really want to get it going again. Anybody have any opinions on the Comp 4X4 line of cams?
 
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