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Will not start

wheels87k5

wheels87k5

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Just finished installing a new motor....it will turn over good but will not try to start. No backfire. There is fuel to throttle body and spark at all plugs. Is it possible to be 180 degrees out of time?.....I figured if it was, there would be backfire. HELP....SOS....:crazy:
 
Sounds out of time. Either 180 out or wires crossed over somewhere.
 
Before I dropped in the distributor, I put the timing mark to 0, made sure the #1 and #6 pistons were at the top, and the rotor to #1 in the cap....Can it still be out 180 degrees?
 
The new motor consisted of a new block, heads and exhaust. Everything else is the same.
 
Is it fuel injected?

Edit I see that it is.

So did you plug up all the sensors? Esp. oil pressure switch?
 
So when you switch the key on, the fuel pump runs and primes, then you turn the key to start and the motor turns over but doesn't start up? Any fuel spray out of the injectors into the throttle body while cranking?
 
I will double check the firing order and check the wires....Might have missed something....Have no clue what....been working on this K5 for 3 months...can't wait to get it on the road and go do some mudding. :D
 
OK....So maybe I don't have spark....The first thing I checked on the timing, when this problem started, was to see if I had spark...I used a gadget you plug onto the spark plug, then the other end to the wire and cranked it over...The little light in the middle pulsed (very dim) light which I thought was saying I had spark....Now the light doesn't come on at all....on any plugs. :confused: It all worked before the engine change. What to check next. :confused:
 
Is there a way to test the coil or module? Is the module mounted on the base of the distributor with the 2 plug-ins (one 4 wire and one 2 wire). And how did one of those just go out all of a sudden? Just wondering because the truck started fine before the engine swap.
 
That is the module, it can be tested at most auto parts stores.
If the injectors are firing the module and pick-up coil are working.

I would replace the coil based off of what you said. If you were closer I would give you one.
 
Yes, the injectors are pulsing fuel while cranking the motor. And this indicates the pick-up coil and module are working? That would be great if it was only the coil. Is there a way to test the coil (I"m assuming this is the coil that plugs into the top of the distributor cap?) Is there a way to check the plug ins to the coil?
 
I'm sure you did this already but have you checked all fuses? It's prolly something easy if it worked before. If vehicle sat for 3 months then maybe some components got corroded. I would also check for power to the Dist. when key is on.
 
The Blazer didn't sit for 3 months....that's just how long I've had it and been working on changing it from a lemon to a cherry. The previous motor ran good, but it smoked a little so I took the heads in to be redone. One head had 2 hairline cracks so I decided to just replace it all with a long block. It's only been sitting for 2 weeks. I haven't checked the fuses. What am I looking for? I did the dist. test and it does have juice to it from the battery. I did the 3 tests on the coil and it tests good. I did the test on the pickup coil and it passed also. One thing I'm curious about is the module...on the 4 wire plug, one of the pins is shorter than the other three. Wondering if it's not making good contact in the plug, or if that's how it's suppose to be. I'm gonna take the module in for testing and probably get a new one. Not expensive, and can't hurt. Just don't understand how it worked before and then "bam", overnight it quit. Unless that shorter pin got that way when I plugged it in during assembly. Who knows? But dammit, the Blazer "is" gonna run eventually. :D Thanks for everyones input and help :bow:
 
If you figure it let me know im in the same boat,truck ran but, needed freeze plugs so I yanked the motor for a lil RndR work. Now I cant get the thing to fire..
 
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