Will this work for my TBI swap??

[Smokeyk5]

Got a newb questions. So I've began accumulating parts to start my build this summer and so far this is a run down of what I will be doing, 74 jimmy 14b FF rear, d44 HD front, 4.11's, 37's, built th350 w/ low 1st gear planetary, np205, engine will more than likely be just a 350 with mild mods. Truck is not my daily driver but I do plan on driving it around town on occasion mainly just going to be a wheeling rig. It's emissions except so I'm not worried about that. Currently I'm trying to figure out the TBI swap. I've been doing a lot of searching and have a general understanding of what I will need to do, but have a few questions. My main question is I'm able to get this system below from a guy for $300, would that be good?

-7747 truck ECM
-Modified and tested factory wiring harness (all it needs is two grounds, two 12v key on, and the power ran to the fuel pump and few other things depending what transmission)
-TBI V8 intake with all electrical components
-distributor
-Throttle body with injectors and all hookups
-Brand new Bosch Heated 02 sensor with harness($75 upgrade from factory non heated)
-Brand new knock sensor and connector
-Factory oil pressure sensor to run fuel pump
-Brand new Airtex E8094 TBI swap fuel pump ($100 and its still in the box never used)

Secondly, for the ECM i hear some people say that its better to get a 95+, will it really matter just running a mild engine and a th350? Also this VSS, will I need one and if so where would I mount it too. I know what it does but not sure where to mount it. Any other insight would be appreciated.

 

[454Sub]

I used to run mine without the VSS, but it does help with low speed idling and stalling problems. Search for VSS in 205 on this site, or pirate and read up. It took me 20 min to do and mine works.

Your th350 if memory serves does not need any form of input from the computer though, so you can just droop the wires over the brake booster like I did, as I run a th400 now.

95 is the last year of the TBI, so 96 up will not work. Plus 95 was different then the rest in some ways shapes and forms.

Your going to need a plate, or special intake to mount the TBI body to the intake. Transdapt sells them.

Most likely, it will need a chip burned to run 100%. Sucks, but thats part of it.

 

[b454rat]

Pre-95 ECM's will work, but the pin-out is different from a 7747. Also they control the tranny too, 4l60 or 4l80. I guess they are a better ECM, faster or something, not 100%. But if the guy has all the parts, and pretty much ready to bolt in, doesn't seem like a bad deal.

As for VSS, you could get a speedo from a 85-up, they have the VSS on the back of the speedo that I think will work with the ECM.

 

[Smokeyk5]

I have been reading about the VSS and some people run it others don't, but that's another debate all in itself. The TBI comes with a stock intake manifold so I know I can either swap heads (which more than likely will happen with engine rebuild) get an adapter plate or machine the manifold. Sweet, well thank for the input

 

[eagle mark]

You can run the 1227747 ECM without a VSS, but it is needed for 700R4 lockup based off speed.

Sounds like a fair deal with all the new parts.

Chips are easy!

 

[Smokeyk5]

Thanks eagle mark, I may just try running it without the VSS and see how it does. From what I was reading about adding it to the 205 would requires machining the output tailhousing and I was only able to find the mod for fixed yoke and I have currently have a slip, but that may change.

 

[454Sub]

It can be done in a slip yolk. The only difference between them is the on the end of the cast iron housing. That actual part is the same, its the output and seal retainer that changes. You can still do it on yours. Mine was a slip yolk cast iron housing.

 

[Smokeyk5]

Do you by chance have any info for hooking up the VSS with the SY or parts numbers? thanks

 

[454Sub]

The VSS itself is for an NP241. So any 4wd Chevy pickup built after 88 will have the 241. Its expensive though, like 60$ or some nonsense, for a magnet. I just went to the junkyard and pulled 2 of them and they got me for 10$. You will also need a NP241 speed sensor wheel thing. I got mine from GM for 30$

Looking at your t-case, the aluminum thing the driveshaft slip slides in and out of is removeable. Take it off, and its the next piece that you drill and tap. Its cast, so its not much fun, but its not to bad. I had to run a grinder on it to set the gap for the sensor to reluctor wheel.

I found the info on Pirate, do a search over there and its a huge article thing on how to do it, or use Google. Then you can get pictures and actually see whats the what what. Makes it easier.

 

[Smokeyk5]

Schwweeett, well thanks!