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will welding hurt computer

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mrivan

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I need to weld some new hinges on the door post of an 89 s 10 blazer ,I will be using a an A C stick welder dose anyone know if this will hurt the dreaded computer ,if so how do I go about it.........
P.S. this is my landladies blazer I have a 81 k5 and all I do when welding on it is to dsiconect the battery.
Mrivan............
 
We mount truck bodies for crane trucks and weld to the frame quite a bit. We disconnect the battery and then wrap a chain over the rear axle, letting it hang to the ground so the truck is grounded. Then have at it. (Rubber tires make a poor ground LOL)

Have fun.
Bryan

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Durant, Ok
The road goes on Forever and the Party never ends!
 
I'm not a mechanical master mind, but I am quite familiar with electronic components and the effect that heat has on them.

The computer in your K5 is just a chip. As with any chips heat will usually not blow the component, but it will kill the life expectancy of the component. However, your talking about welding here! Much more heat...

As a general rule I would definately avoid any kind of heat around any component like a welder would produce.

<font color=blue> Jeff </font color=blue>

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Yeah, just disconnect the battery and keep the ground cable close to where you are welding...

We used to have clamp on surge protectors for the newer trucks at work, "anti-zappers"
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Rene

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<A target="_blank" HREF=http://jules.coloradok5.com>http://jules.coloradok5.com</A>
 
Unless the truck catches on fire, the welding should be plenty far away from the chip. I don't think that the heat from welding will be an issue, and if it catches on fire, well, then the computer chip is the least of his worries!
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Bad Dog

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
 
Actually the concern about welding on a computer controlled vehicle is voltage spikes...most computers don't like that sort of thing too much.

Rene

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it takes a total of 5V to blow a chip... not much...

actually I didn't realize he wouldn't be welding right by the chip...

<font color=blue> Jeff </font color=blue>

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That is a exellent idea about the chain around the axle. We used to have a grounding rod drove in the ground and used jumper cables attached to the it and the frame. Your idea is a lot easier...

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I personally don't see how discontecting the battery will help anything. The computer is still grounded wheather the battery is in the vehicle or not. Current wants a path....keep the gound close to where you are welding like mentioned in the previous post and I think you'll be fine. Heat won't be an issue with welding unless you weld on the computer box. All rear axles that I'm aware of have rubber/poly bushings that would isolate them from the frame, thus negating any effect from grounding the axle(unless you consider the path thru the engine/transmission/driveshaft/gearsand third member). If it would make ya feel better at least ground the frame or body if that's what your welding on. My free opinion.....if the computer blows.....I never said a thing.
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Michael
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<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm>http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm</A>
 
hey, and ya know what, if you get too concerned you could pull the computer... at that point there would be absolutely no doubt... I don't know how much work it is to get the computer out, but is seems pretty easy to get to the computer...

<font color=blue> Jeff </font color=blue>

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the rule according to iicar(the ase for bodywork)says to disconnect the battery,and do not weld w/in 18 or 24" or the computer.the so many inches is for the(i think this is what its called)electromagnetic impulses,which go beyond the actual welded area.ive only seen it myself 1 time but yes welding on a computerized car or truck will fry the comp.if you do not at least disconnect the battery.the 18-24" thing ive never experienced,but thats what they say so i remove the comp.if im welding in its neighborhood.just to be safe.

PURE INSANITY
86 blazer see it at:<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292792569>http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292792569</A>
 
I've seen several (hauled to my shop on a hook) that have had smoked computers in them. The diodes in your alternator can short out as well. Disconnect the battery cables and don't weld near the ECM.
 
Just curious ... Where is the computer ... and how much to replace?

Back to that lock up problem, if the ECM is the problem ... What am I looking at?
 
yea where is that bugger ,do you unhook it or take it clear out ? I'd like to thow it in the river and never have to look at an S 10 again but it belongs to the lady that owns the farm I live on . My 81 K5 with a 77 454 conversion runs just fine with out a magic computer ,I can time it by ear and blow the doors off that dinky computerized tin box............
Mrivan....
Maybe she will buy a Dorf that's a Ford with a blown computer..............
 
im not sure where it is.but it must be moved away.not just unplugged.remove it and put it on the bench till your done.

PURE INSANITY
86 blazer see it at:<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292792569>http://www.zing.com/album/pictures.html?id=4292792569</A>
 
It is bolted to the underside of the top of the dash, just to the left of the glove box. Not too terribly bad to get out but there is some junk in the way.

Bad Dog

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
 
Well, can't you just unhook the ground cable of the ECM (and the battery ofcourse) and weld? I think you should be fine with that. Granted you don't weld right next to it. Would be a lot easier then taking the ECM out. Just a thought.
Boss

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