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Windstar fan connectors

Mastiff

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I'm looking for answers to two things, first what pins are what on the windstar fans? I have 3 pins on the big fan and two on the small. Can anyone tell me how to tell +/- on each of these, and what the third pin is for on the big one? My setup is going to be "all on" or "all off", so I figure I either tie two together on the big one, or ignore one.

I have the fan setup but no connectors. How have people dealt with this? I think if I try to get legit windstar fan connectors I'll spend more than I spent on the fans. I've seen the 3-pin connector for $30-50. Haven't seen the 2-pin.
 
Nobody? Someone must know what the three pins do on the bigger fan. I tested it out and it looks like one is ground and either of the others will run it, but maybe one faster than the other?

For the connectors I guess I'll just put spade connectors on the individual pins.
 
I swear I just answered this question... maybe I dreamed it. lol

the 3rd pin does the same as the 2nd... same speed. my guess is that it was used to turn on the fan when the A/C came on or something.

you can safely ignore it.
 
Finally getting around to finishing up this wiring. I'll try one more time here. Anyone know where to get the legit connectors for the windstar fans? I'm putting spades on the little blades, but it doesn't seem very robust. Rock Auto has the 3-connector one, but that's it. Maybe another Ford application?
 
I cut mine off a windstar and pulled the connectors apart and rewired them into a new harness. So if I ever have to pull them its just an unplug and go thing.

And Im pretty sure some of them extra wires kick the fans on when the accessories demand, A/C and such.

Use 2 relays to power them fans for sure.
 
I cut mine off a windstar and pulled the connectors apart and rewired them into a new harness. So if I ever have to pull them its just an unplug and go thing.

And Im pretty sure some of them extra wires kick the fans on when the accessories demand, A/C and such.

Use 2 relays to power them fans for sure.

Yeah, I just ordered the fan off feebay, so no connectors. I'm running a 75 amp relay for each fan with 10g wire.
 
Ahhhhh, you may have to go yard searching for them. I highly doubt any over the counter plugin thingy will match the factory Ford setup.

They are a PITA to separate and rewire but they can be done. I had to use a very sharp flathead screwdriver. Then I clinched them all back together and soldered them up. Put them back in the connector and viola Almost good as new.
 
mouser.com

If you can find the connectors/terminals you need from there, without having a part number or name before-hand, my hat is off to you. :)

But...one of the only places I know of that you can get the terminals. Soldering/connecting larger wiring normally ends up looking terrible and being a pain, being able to crimp new terminals to the wiring just seems...better.

The plus side is, the prices seem to be really reasonable. I've ordered tens of parts at once just guessing which was the right one, simply because they were so cheap.
 
Ford stuff is hard to find.
P.E.D/Delphi stuff is much easier to find.
What would the Ford stuff be named if looking on Mousers.
Do you have a picture of the terminals?
 
The best way to get them is to get them with the fan, as buying a set of pigtails can cost as much as a junkyard fan assembly.

getimage.php


You can get the pigtail version from O'Reilley's (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...make=Ford&vi=1362844&model=Windstar&year=2000) or RockAuto (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # S725 or MOTORCRAFT Part # WPT168 ). But the prices are really high.

You might try these guys: http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Ford-Radiator-Cooling-Fan-Motor-Connector.html or here: http://www.pointe-products.com/Items.aspx?ItemClass=Ford-Electrical-Repair-Harnesses
 
The best way to get them is to get them with the fan, as buying a set of pigtails can cost as much as a junkyard fan assembly.

getimage.php


You can get the pigtail version from O'Reilley's (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...make=Ford&vi=1362844&model=Windstar&year=2000) or RockAuto (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # S725 or MOTORCRAFT Part # WPT168 ). But the prices are really high.

You might try these guys: http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Ford-Radiator-Cooling-Fan-Motor-Connector.html or here: http://www.pointe-products.com/Items.aspx?ItemClass=Ford-Electrical-Repair-Harnesses

I found these, but there are two fans and the other one has a different connector (2 pins instead of 3). For some reason everyone sells the 3-pin version and the 2-pin is impossible to find. :confused:

They are expensive. But it's nice to have options. Whenever I buy pigtails for stuff, the wires seem way small. I'm running 10g to the fans, I bet those wires are 14 or 16g. The pigtails I got for my headlight upgrade had puny wire. Either they're cheap or I'm overkilling everything. :whistle:
 
Ford stuff is hard to find.
P.E.D/Delphi stuff is much easier to find.
What would the Ford stuff be named if looking on Mousers.

No luck finding anything via google. If you had the Ford PN for the connector body that would probably work at Mouser to cross reference.

This is why I don't like dealing with other makes...GM seems to be the only brand that has a large number of owners who REALLY dig into their stuff and know it.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if the factory wiring was 12, which is fine for this application. How many more CFM will you get from an extra .05V? I never trust pigtails or relay socket crimps. I pull the pins and solder the core crimp. A bad crimp will heat up and melt the connector later, maybe even damaging your fan, relay, whatever.

Here's a better price on the 3-way: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Ford_Cooling_Fan_Motor_Harness_Connector_p/a20549.htm

Are you sure the 2-way isn't the same connector with no terminal in the middle? Maybe somebody has a picture.

EDIT: I guess I do - there it is on my rig:

PICT0123.jpg
 
Yeah, I solder all my stuff except for the spades to the relays of course. I hate that all the connectors have that plastic insulation stuff that I have to cut off to do it right anyway...

I'm pretty sure the 2-pin is totally different. The spades/blades may even be oriented the other direction, IIRC.

Not sure about the wire gauge to the fans. I saw a guy claim 10g wasn't enough on one forum. I don't want stuff to get hot if it's drawing high sustained amps. But you're probably right that 10g is overkill. I ran 12g to my headlights, so I'm in overkill mode.
 
The concern on the fans as far as I've ever seen is initial draw. To get them started it takes a fair bit, but once up and running the draw is quite a bit less.

*IMO*, if the load is temporary, in a situation like this, you can safely get away with "too small" wiring. Starter is a good example. Even conservatively, they draw somewhere on the order of 250A apparently, I'm sure the starter wire is nowhere large enough *technically* for that load.

Edit: For Taurus fans, 130A "inrush", 40A on high speed setting. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.php
 
I would run them separately. I rarely and I mean rarely have to run with both of them on. I think I have run them both on twice, both times I forgot to turn the fans on and the engine got rather hot. They were both in Moab with the temps in the high 90's low 100's.

I was rather surprised how coll it runs.
 
I'm letting my TBI computer run them. The computer only has one wire for on/off, no low/high or anything. I guess if the fans are too effective it'll be cycling a lot. I have a separate relay for each, so I can put a little switch on one of them if I want so only the big one runs unless I see stuff getting hot.
 
On my dual LS-series fans, I have the primary controlled by ECM, the secondary is controlled by a stock engine fan temp switch. If I had a two speed fan, it would be setup the same way.

I *personally* would think of using a setup like this with your fan, but I would ensure that your fan is up to the task before finalizing the wiring. Yes, it increases complexity and components, but even if a relay fails and you don't notice it on your gauge, you will still get cooling. I've got a VERY intermittent issue where the primary fan doesn't turn on, so I've seen this in action.

The Echlin catalog covers the thread/pitch and on/off temps of the various temp switches they make, most of the stock GM EFI stuff I'm aware of uses a temp switch with a 240* on temp, but the Buick GN's used a temp switch that had an on temp much lower. I am sure some other non-ECM controlled fan setups used a lower on/off temp.

With essentially three fans, that gives you a lot of options on how to do it. I will say upfront that the draw from even the LS fans on startup is very high, and at least on the TPI setup, idle is increased to compensate for the drag on the motor.

Just like how I use 4 low, I'd want the maximum cooling to be backup if needed, not constantly on. With reduced fan speed, you also aren't going to end up cycling the fans so often, if you care.
 
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