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Winter Blazer

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Garageman1212

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May 25, 2009
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Spruce Grove, AB
Hi just bought a blazer. My plan is to build the ultimate winter beater. I have a mustang for the summer so this only gets driven in the winter. I will probably be doing some winter wheeling and maybe a couple trips in the summer so it has to be a decent wheeler too I guess. But it is mainly a winter vehicle. So i was just looking for ideas, what wpuld be your ideal winter vehicle. So far I have found a new set of front fenders for it, thats about it. For tires It came with a brand new set of 31" winter tires but those pretty small so I picked up a set of 35" pro comp studded m/t's. Floor pans are gone and it needs some other cancer repair, frame looks solid so far. Suggestions on suspension or anything else? I was thinking dual batteries, pan heater, some sort of heater in cab on a timer? Tried to post some pictures but it wont let me :mad:
 
You need to have a certain number of posts before you are allowed to post pictures, 15 I think.

If they use salt on the roads where you are, make sure to do some major rust prevention on all of the metal you fix. Wash it to get the salt spray off of it too. My K5 wasn't that bad when I got it, after a few winters I'm looking at a body swap soon (mine sees more winter miles than summer though).

A block heater is a good idea. I prefer a block heater over a pan/oil heater. The block heater will heat the motor, antifreeze and oil. Where a pan heater will only do the oil. The was a thread about inline coolant heaters, if you do a search you should find some info on them. Shouldn't need a timed cab heater if you keep it (block) plugged in.

35's can be cleared easily. Look in the thread at the top or search.

One thing winter wheeling does tax is the cooling system. Especially if you are breaking trail. I've got a big block radiator and dual electric fans in mine, haven't had any real issues with overheating. Another plus to the electric fans is the motor will warm up faster.
 
Yeah they use a ton of salt thats why it looks like swiss cheese haha. Any recomendations on what to use I have heard por 15 is good stuff or would regular undercoating better? I am going to run a inline block heater and a pan heater. Want to run everything but im limited to 15 amps right or it will just blow the breaker its plugged into. The heater inside would be cool cause the cab would be warm and no ice on the windows to scrape off in the morning :) For suspension what would be best trim and no lift or a 4 or 6". Its a balance it has to be daily driven and do good on ice and snow. 12" and 44's would look cool but would not be practicle. For the engine I have a 5.3L from a 02 silverado I got for free and an hx35 from a 04 cummins I also got for free so thats going in there. I think its a good combo spools quick for in the snow but if you stay out of boost it will be good on ice. I was throwing around ideas about traction control and auto 4x4 but even if I figured out how to make it work I dont think I would really want it anyway. Just brain storming anyone else have any crazy ideas?
 
Where are you in Canada? Just remember that if the outside looks like swiss cheese, the inside is 10000% worse. I had to look long and hard to find a tub that was rust free!
 
Edmonton. It isnt actually to bad rockers are still there, quarters are patchable, doors are ok. its mostly the floor under the driver seat and front fenders. Inner fenders are good too.
 
For the underbody, Rustbullet (found on this website) to stop the rust on the frame, Then a good quality undercoating to seal the metal in there. And regularly wash it to get that evil crap salt off of it.

A rule of thumb I learned long ago for snow tires is narrow. The narrower the tire, the more pressure it puts on the ground per square inch. This is why a truck on 38" boggers won't go anywhere in the snow and ice while a similar truck on say, little 245's will walk circles around the bogger truck on the road. Now if you're going to go off roading this winter in the snow, find a tall(-ish) skinny tire to hold the truck off the ground, but still have that narrow contact patch. Edmonton seems a lot like eastern Washington or Idaho, cold, but not too much snow, just drifted. A 33x9.50 should be a good tire size, or 35x10.50 on a larger rim as well. Narrow.

Dual batteries, good. I like a block heater as well, heats the whole motor instead of just the oil. An auxillary heater would be smart if you plan on back seat passengers, as the rear of these things are not well insulated. Also, a "winterfront" or that black vinyl cover for the grill to keep air from passing through the radiator will help immensely. Just be sure to take it off for the trail.

I would sell the turbo and put the money to good use, because on anything other than dry or wet pavement, you'll have to be extremely careful about the throttle. Turbo boost will sneak up on you and break traction in a heartbeat, especially in something as small as our Blazers. Or put it on your Mustang. Even better. The 5.3 with heads and intake will be plenty of motivation in the snow and ice.
 
If you want, I've got a scrap K5 tub with solid floor pans you can come cut out. I am only about 15 minutes East of Edmonton just off Highway 16 :)

Welcome to CK5 BTW, there are a couple of us Edmontonians around ;)
 
Thanks for the welcome. As for the turbo I wanted to throw it on cause it would be something cool and different dont see it too much. if it doesnt work I can allways pull it back off. It was free plus the mustang already has a turbo, much bigger one haha. Ill probably take you up on the floor pans. I have a couple other small things in the garage to finish up before I tear it apart and see how bad the floors are. Thanks. The tires i got are 35x 12.5x 15. They have one stud in every outter lug. Bought them for 400 bucks and they are brand new so ill try them and see how they work was thinking of getting the inside lugs sipped.Heard that can make can make a differeance.
 
Oh and I was wandering around the pick ur part today. Most of the stuff is stripped but i found a 89 suburban and the driver and passanger doors are mint no rust at all the only thing is someone pulled the window motors out of them. Has anyone ever swapped a set is it a big pain in the ass? Also found 2 14bff rear ends one in a 79 and one in an 88 both 3/4 tons. They are both 2wd ext cab trucks. Does that make a diferance?
 
You'll have to move the spring perches, and may have issues with e-brake cables, but otherwise those newer diffs should be about the same.

BTW, when you decide that your tub is too far gone to repair, let me know. I have a line on a solid 79 K5 tub for real cheap
 
So the snow is melted off the blazer and im done the other projects so im going to start working on it pretty soon. So I started looking for parts again and I cant decide on axles? Over the winter I picked up two more new 35x12.5x15 pro comp mud terrains for a 100 bucks so now I have 6 for a total of $500. so im stuck to a 15 inch rim. I found a dana 60 14b ff combo 4.10 for sale $1000. and 4 15x 8 8 lug american racing rims $200. Or i could get a 14b ff and try to find 3/4 ton stuff for the front and re gear and buy rims. or find a 14b sf 6 lug regear the front and stay with my rims and not change the front. Now I know the 60/14 is best but not really necessary if I stay with 35s. I would be dragging diffs around all the time. The sf would be cheaper and plenty strong for 35s but you know how it goes that deal on the 39s was just way to good to pass up haha. Ive done the research and know the pros and cons of each I just cant make up my mind haha. what do you guys think. How hard is it to find a 14b sf with 4.10s?
 
Finding the semi floater shouldn't be too hard. They are common in the 88+ trucks, and some older square bodies as well.

If you wanted to step up to 3/4 tons, I have a set of 3.73 axles under my K5 that I'd like to replace with 1 tons. The front is already ground for 15" wheels, and has a powertrax locker in it. It would need new lockout hubs and ball joints to be perfect, but you could easily swap the stuff from your 1/2 ton 10 bolt in. The rear is an open diff (had plans for a detroit) and is in excellent shape. I'd be willing to cut you a pretty good deal on the pair for information on that D60 / 14BFF combo ;)
 
Haha yeah I sold it and bought a 97 12 valve cummins 5 speed. Lift 35s straight pipe, fuel plate ect, painted it satin black Its pretty sweet. Was sad to see the blazer go and I still want to build one but there was no way I could pass up the deal on the cummins. Ill post a pic after I finish up the paint this weekend.

Hey Russell did you sell your blazer im pretty sure I saw it on Kijiji?
 
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